Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
That should be fun upside down on my back... never had a hot drop of solder on my face .... YET....
Thanks. Sure sounds bulletproof.
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IGN Module or Starter Solonoid /lead?
- Thread starter Matt Bachand
- Start date
That should be fun upside down on my back... never had a hot drop of solder on my face .... YET....
Thanks. Sure sounds bulletproof.
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
SmithvilleD"s answer was the best......Small investment for peace of mind......Oh, you still need a good crimper.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Nothing painless about a 45$$ package of connectors!!
But they do look good for sure.
SmithvilleD
Active Member
Yep. It would be nice if they were available in smaller pack sizes.
For some applications, the cost is worth it for a quality terminal. I just checked the 2 rear passenger side glow plugs where I used these terminals & they look to be tolerating the heat of that area well.
Guess they get down to $ 0.66 per terminal if/when I've used the whole pack.
For some applications, the cost is worth it for a quality terminal. I just checked the 2 rear passenger side glow plugs where I used these terminals & they look to be tolerating the heat of that area well.
Guess they get down to $ 0.66 per terminal if/when I've used the whole pack.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Well I dropped the starter today... what a bitch that starter bracket is.......
Anyhow, I got a good set of ratcheting crimpers,
Crimped it
Soldered it
Liquid electrical taped it
Double shrink wrapped it.
I DO NOT WANT TO DROP THIS STARTER AGAIN UNTIL IT FAILS.
Tested it out before I hooked up the starter motor lead to batt
clicked it 30 times, and it clicked 100%.
Time will tell, cold weather does all sorts of things.... I hope its not the ign module.
Anyhow, I got a good set of ratcheting crimpers,
Crimped it
Soldered it
Liquid electrical taped it
Double shrink wrapped it.
I DO NOT WANT TO DROP THIS STARTER AGAIN UNTIL IT FAILS.
Tested it out before I hooked up the starter motor lead to batt
clicked it 30 times, and it clicked 100%.
Time will tell, cold weather does all sorts of things.... I hope its not the ign module.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Crimp (Stake on) connectors are great if you have a commercial grade crimp tool.
The good ones have a stud on one side that mashes into the connector and plunges into the connector as the other part squeezes it.
These make a very good connection.
The parts store tools SUCK they just squeeze the connector and these will come loose or pull off.
Go to an electrical supply house and buy a good tool and your set.
They are heavy steel and not the stamped crap that the parts house sells.
Here is a pix of a good tool.
Most electrical supply houses will stock this type tool.
The secret is to place the split side of the connector opposite of the stud on the crimping area.
I own two of these suckers, one for very small connectors and one for the larger stuff.
You can see the little stud back toward the rear of the jaw area. These tools have spots for most sizes of connectors.
Missy
The good ones have a stud on one side that mashes into the connector and plunges into the connector as the other part squeezes it.
These make a very good connection.
The parts store tools SUCK they just squeeze the connector and these will come loose or pull off.
Go to an electrical supply house and buy a good tool and your set.
They are heavy steel and not the stamped crap that the parts house sells.
Here is a pix of a good tool.
Most electrical supply houses will stock this type tool.
The secret is to place the split side of the connector opposite of the stud on the crimping area.
I own two of these suckers, one for very small connectors and one for the larger stuff.
You can see the little stud back toward the rear of the jaw area. These tools have spots for most sizes of connectors.
Missy
Attachments
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...o?itemid=93977&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=
A good friend of mine on the site informed me of these crimpers. THey are leveraging ratcheting pliers that clamp down straight and true and strong as hell. They work excellent. I attempt to pull the connection apart as hard as I can afterwards. It doesn't budge.
Then like I said, I soldered it, liq elect tape, and double heatshrink. Overkill as I just don't want to drop the starter again during winter. The solder is just extra/double kill
I usaully crimp, liq elec tape (your advice lead me on to this wonderful stuff missy), and heatshrink.
After years of connections gone south in nasty weather, i'm tired of doing things twice. I am trying to find the best longest lasting connections.
believe it or not, those quick splice adapters that just clamp over 2 un-stripped wires and the top clips over the metal last the longest by far for speed and quickness. I have a few of them that consistently get hammered with salt/slush in my wheelwell and they havn't missed a beat yet for over 2 years.
Coorosion is my worst enemy here.
A good friend of mine on the site informed me of these crimpers. THey are leveraging ratcheting pliers that clamp down straight and true and strong as hell. They work excellent. I attempt to pull the connection apart as hard as I can afterwards. It doesn't budge.
Then like I said, I soldered it, liq elect tape, and double heatshrink. Overkill as I just don't want to drop the starter again during winter. The solder is just extra/double kill
I usaully crimp, liq elec tape (your advice lead me on to this wonderful stuff missy), and heatshrink.
After years of connections gone south in nasty weather, i'm tired of doing things twice. I am trying to find the best longest lasting connections.
believe it or not, those quick splice adapters that just clamp over 2 un-stripped wires and the top clips over the metal last the longest by far for speed and quickness. I have a few of them that consistently get hammered with salt/slush in my wheelwell and they havn't missed a beat yet for over 2 years.
Coorosion is my worst enemy here.
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
Glad you got the Crimping thing down.....When you get around to it, try the connectors SmithvilleD suggested......the're really much better than anything else out there.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Clicked over with new authority this cool morning... good sign.
Only takes 1/2 a spin for the girl to fire so room to diagnose was limitied, but I think It was the starter lead.
Only takes 1/2 a spin for the girl to fire so room to diagnose was limitied, but I think It was the starter lead.
dangerousdave
1994 6.5 Suburban
EXCellent! U R Blest!
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Bummer... happened again. Turned to crank and no clickey, no crankey....
Damnit.
I know the ign module isn't easy to get at, but I have no choice but to look at it, try to fix it, if not replace it. Can only imaging what the frigid weather will do to the symptoms that seem to not happen when truck is warm........ Contacts shrink, farther apart, truck wont start. (guess I could jump the starter solonoid in a pinch............................ Gotta fix)
Anyone have a link to repair manual for steps to get into the column this deep?
I'd add cruise control at the same time, but i don't want to spend more coin on things i really don't need.
Damnit.
I know the ign module isn't easy to get at, but I have no choice but to look at it, try to fix it, if not replace it. Can only imaging what the frigid weather will do to the symptoms that seem to not happen when truck is warm........ Contacts shrink, farther apart, truck wont start. (guess I could jump the starter solonoid in a pinch............................ Gotta fix)
Anyone have a link to repair manual for steps to get into the column this deep?
I'd add cruise control at the same time, but i don't want to spend more coin on things i really don't need.
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Excellent link.
LCGarage did such a fine job putting together a .PDF file, i'll share his fine work over here. Well done.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Removed IGN Module, everything looked fine, no obvoius signs of anything. Excellent PDF file above... very useful.
Re-Installed. The way this bolts together seems really nice.... Maybe just unhooking and rebolting together will clean things up if there was a miss.
Cleaned starter relay up and all large amp fuses underhood w/dremel (mirror finish now)
Started fine each test with no signs of anything wrong....
Going to be 32df or so in the morning, will see how it starts unplugged.....
Re-Installed. The way this bolts together seems really nice.... Maybe just unhooking and rebolting together will clean things up if there was a miss.
Cleaned starter relay up and all large amp fuses underhood w/dremel (mirror finish now)
Started fine each test with no signs of anything wrong....
Going to be 32df or so in the morning, will see how it starts unplugged.....
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Started fine this cold morning unplugged, barely any smoke........ P.S. glows will hold off till next summer....
IGN switch worked today too, many times no problems, however, its probably in my head, b ut I feel like I have to turn it farther than normal.
Turns out the one I 'paid' to have replaced was a Delco. few years old, couldn't tell it was not original, but how could I? Maybe thats why it was such an expensive job few years back because 1. I got raped. 2 Delco.
If it was truly replaced, which it must be as it resolved my issues at the time, a new Delco unit shouldn't fail within 2-3 years..........
Time will tell. Just feels like i'm turning it farther/harder than normal, but of course I'm thinking about it now..........
If I do have to replace it, it will only take me 30minutes though. Easy job.
IGN switch worked today too, many times no problems, however, its probably in my head, b ut I feel like I have to turn it farther than normal.
Turns out the one I 'paid' to have replaced was a Delco. few years old, couldn't tell it was not original, but how could I? Maybe thats why it was such an expensive job few years back because 1. I got raped. 2 Delco.
If it was truly replaced, which it must be as it resolved my issues at the time, a new Delco unit shouldn't fail within 2-3 years..........
Time will tell. Just feels like i'm turning it farther/harder than normal, but of course I'm thinking about it now..........
If I do have to replace it, it will only take me 30minutes though. Easy job.
treegump
Romans 3:22-24
Do you have a description or part number for that starter relay? Also, any pictures/diagrams? Thanks!
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
I will update since this thread got bumped.
The symptoms (turn key no crank) still happen every once in a while. Doesn't happen enough to figure out weather me twisting the ign harder makes it crank, or if it just 'grabs' on its own by holding key into start mode.
Either way, I havn't been stranded, and it's been a non-issue mostly, and when it does happen (always cold) it always cranks eventually. Once this winter it messed up my glow-cycle and it started up on cold glows... smokey... besides that it's just another demon I've learned to live with.
Trucks been great this winter, I do have a list of maintenance items waiting to be done after winter. So far havn't had to crawl under there once.
The symptoms (turn key no crank) still happen every once in a while. Doesn't happen enough to figure out weather me twisting the ign harder makes it crank, or if it just 'grabs' on its own by holding key into start mode.
Either way, I havn't been stranded, and it's been a non-issue mostly, and when it does happen (always cold) it always cranks eventually. Once this winter it messed up my glow-cycle and it started up on cold glows... smokey... besides that it's just another demon I've learned to live with.
Trucks been great this winter, I do have a list of maintenance items waiting to be done after winter. So far havn't had to crawl under there once.
Tookie
Member
I have the exact same thing going on, i eliminated the starter relay by puttin the A/C relay in it's place,
same problem a few days later.
I was really hoping that was the problem.
I too suspect the ignition switch, but cost is around 175.00,
so I want to be sure before I replace it. Last time it wouldn't crank,
I held the key on crank, and shifted it to neutral, and it cranked -
so it COULD be the neutral safety switch, or it could be that shifting it wiggled the ignition switch enough to
make it start. So now I (in my mind) have it narrowed down to ignition switch, or neutral safety switch,
or possibly starter solenoid, or a dead spot on the starter. What is the ignition solenoid you were mentioning?
same problem a few days later.
I was really hoping that was the problem.
I too suspect the ignition switch, but cost is around 175.00,
so I want to be sure before I replace it. Last time it wouldn't crank,
I held the key on crank, and shifted it to neutral, and it cranked -
so it COULD be the neutral safety switch, or it could be that shifting it wiggled the ignition switch enough to
make it start. So now I (in my mind) have it narrowed down to ignition switch, or neutral safety switch,
or possibly starter solenoid, or a dead spot on the starter. What is the ignition solenoid you were mentioning?
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Referring to the solenoid on the starter, the connection to it, or the connection from it to the Starter motor itself.
I removed my starter, and redid the leads onto the new starter, so I went way out of my way to do it top notch. I even removed my ign switch looking for wear spots, cleaned it all up, and the contacts, it looked perfect. Its only a few years old, I already replaced it once. Delco part.
I also removed EVERY fuse/relay/large amp fuses and dremeled them all mirror clean. My grounds of course get this treatment often, so no issue there.
Hmmm, where is the Neutral safety switch exactly? Good point.
I removed my starter, and redid the leads onto the new starter, so I went way out of my way to do it top notch. I even removed my ign switch looking for wear spots, cleaned it all up, and the contacts, it looked perfect. Its only a few years old, I already replaced it once. Delco part.
I also removed EVERY fuse/relay/large amp fuses and dremeled them all mirror clean. My grounds of course get this treatment often, so no issue there.
Hmmm, where is the Neutral safety switch exactly? Good point.
Tookie
Member
It's been a lot of years since I pulled one off, and never on this kind of truck,
but it should be on the column, connected to shifter