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I think it is electrical....maybe....

brokenmotor

brokenmotor

I don't know diesel
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Location
BC
My 6.5 is new, as in it has a couple thousand km on it. My water in fuel light flickers sometimes, but it will go out if I press on the brake, and I have seen it flash with the turn signals opposite the timing of the turn signal flash. When my hazards are on, they stop flashing and stay lit if I press the brake.
The truck started dying on me yesterday at basically idle speeds or very light throttle, and if I put it in neutral and start it, it starts right up, and if I accelerate hard, it seems to run fine. The problem seems to be getting worse, because I could not back into my parking spot at an idle last night, as it kept stalling. I would start it up in neutral with my foot on the brake, and then when I went to shift into reverse,it would stall. I cleared the computer yesterday, and when I got home last night, I had codes 32 33 and 35. I think that I may need to do a better job on the grounds that come from the firewall harness to the intake........Perhaps....

Thanks in advance...
 
Do a search on grounds\grounding for pics and information, and follow the instructions explicitly - you are correct in surmising that your symptoms are electrical - and, welcome to the forum, ummmm.............not gonna type your handle, just yet: don't wanna jinx the project, eh...................
 
grounds are good

Perhaps it has to do with the oil that is leaking out of my rear most oil line. It seems to malfunction after it is warm, can the oil pressure switch turn off the fuel pump if enough oil leaks out of that line? The dealer told me there is no o ring there on the oil cooler line
 
Hey Broken,

I have posted this many times on a couple forums. Take the wires that go to the EGR solenoids and *gently* work them with the engine running. It is really common that the wires break inside the insulation. If this is the case, your engine will stumble and it will pitch a code. I finally gave up on them and replaced them from the plugs all the way to the wire loom.
 
new day new codes....

I cleared the codes last night and drove a bit, then checked them this morning, and 33 and 85 showed up. Last week I had one for transmission component slipping, and tcc stuck on. I erased them and they never showed again...but I also have not driven in OD again til last nite.......
 
I cleared codes this morning...attempted to drive to work......defaulted to second gear. Code 87 gear ratio error. I am guessing I am in need of a rebuilt 4L80E, and am I correct in assuming that apart from the egr codes, my drivability issues may all be due to the tranny?
 
I would check the VSS input and output sensors before condemning the hole trans. The input sensor was filled with gunk on mine and would throw mine into limp mode.
 
ok....where are they and how do I check them? I think that the pos tranny with 307,000 km on it couldnt take the torque of the new 6.5 personally, but I will check other things if people could direct me. I also think maybe I shouldn't have changed the old black fluid out for new stuff. But I dont know nothing about these things...I am just trying to use logic.

But now that I am almost ten grand into a 95 truck that prob needs a tranny, I can see that it is the worst financial decision that I have ever made in my life.
 
I can feel your frustration on the situation.

Please explain though how you are 10K in on the truck? Maybe we can/could help save you some coin down the road.

What you are explaining does sound like electrical issues over exploding parts though. So it might be easier than you think to get her right on again.

... I feel your frustration though, I am battling issues with the Suburban as we speak. But I do see light at the end of the tunnel... I hope.

Keep the faith!
 
frustration...hmmmm... I oughta be used to it...

Ok...the story..... I got the truck for free because it apparently needed a new engine.. I say apparently because it might have just needed head gaskets...the old engine is sitting outside my house still, I haven't taken it apart, and I don't know if it is worth my time to return it for the core charge. The core charge was 1000, but it cost me 400 bucks and a whole day drive to pick it up, so it will be another 400 and another day missed work to come out 200 bucks ahead. And since I do not have a forklift at my house, they charge lots extra to pick it up. The Reviva longblock cost me 7000 bucks plus the 1000 core charge....plus 450 for an oem oil cooler.....and a fan clutch for 300 more and a couple more hun for a high flow water pump...and fluids and odds and ends like fifty bucks for a downpipe clamp..and a new oil filler cap and rad cap and a hose or two.....

It is easy to see how that can add up pretty fast.....
 
Try not to get frustrated...

You need to check the sensors (as already mentioned)

A scanner would probably help out - Nickg is in Alberta....he might have GMTDscantech...
 
Also - ensure all grounds are clean.....try running a temporary ground from the engine to the frame to see if things clear up....
 
hey chris.. it WAS working great for a while.... I am in BC. I will let you guys know what I find. thanks.
 
Know a shop, store, guy, whatever, with a fork truck?
Get a local wrecker to take the motor to that place and save some $$$.
 
tranny level is full and clean...the old fluid was kinda black, and immediately after swapping the engine (2000 km ago), I changed the filter and fluid in the tranny the way that you suggested to me....with a 5 gallon pail and a clear tube on the top tranny line.

The truck was broken down for a total of 2-3 months. The original owner was an ex-military guy from Edmonton, used the truck for towing a fifth wheel, babied it, and maintained it religiously. When the motor blew, it was in Revelstoke, and got carried here to my house on a flatbed immediately.
 
the 2 VSS are about the size of a roll on nickles. you'll have one input and one output. the input one reads the input shaft and the output is at the tailshaft. it also give you you speedo readings. the only ones the have a vss in the tranfercase are 4wd. it replaces the one in the tailhousing
 
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