I need to replace the 2 fuel pumps and would like to remove the bed to gain access to both fuel pumps

[jeaserve]

On my 1988 Chevy Silverado R30 454 / 7.4 Crew Cab Dually, I find nuts at eight location that seems to attach the bed to the frame. Every YouTube video shows bolts. In addition, my two gas tank fuel pumps merge at the location of the cab and bed. If I remove the bed, will I be able to pull out the fuel pumps from the gas tanks. (is there enough clearance?) Is there anything else that needs to be removed other that the two gas filler? Thank you in advance for your assistance to either giving me the specs on where the bed attaches to the frame or anything else that I should know. Rafael

 

[Will L.]

I have done trucks lifting the bed, can’t remember if the dual tanks has both accessible from top or not. What you are using to lift the bed becomes the difference of easy or hard task. The old single tanks we just tilted the bed- but dual it needs to come off undoing the fill spout, mounting bolts, electrical to lights. Saw one guy mess up with a forklift and let the bed swing- bent lower part of bed and broke back window of cab.

Consider dropping the tanks instead.
The straps that hang them are easily replaced if damaged.
If you haven’t already- replace the rubber fuel line with sae30r9. This is the kind that withstands ethanol/methanol in all modern fuels.
With the tanks out you can inspect and clean the tanks - not really an option while in the truck. Far less hardware to remove, lowering with floor jack isn’t bad.
Just siphon out the fuel first to make it all easy.


If rust is any issue- figure what is easiest to deal with. Tank straps and hose clamps are easy. 8 bed bolts not so much.

 

[jeaserve]

Thank you for the quick reply... Don't you think that if I left the tanks in place and siphon out the gas, I can clean out the tank before installing the two new Dephi HP10256 and HP1-255 fuel pumps... I thought to only tilt the bed from the cab side to gain access to the fuel tanks. Then I won't have to left the truck other than a jack to lift the tank side of the bed... Your thoughts. Rafael

 

[Stoney]

If you do it that way your fender flares are going to hit the tires(depending on what size rubber you have) on the other side before you get it high enough to pull the pumps i would think. You would still have to at least loosen the bolts on passenger side and unplug tail light wires.

 

[MrMarty51]

1988 R30 is still the square body style of truck.
When I replaced the tanks on a 1987 K1500 that I once owned, IIRC, the tanks was partially under the cab, but My memory just dont totally recall the exact location.
I do remember dropping both tanks to replace them.
If the tank openings for the pumps is under the bed/box then removing the box would be an easier method. In My personal opinion.

 

[Will L.]

i think drop only. Look at the pic:

 

[dbrannon79]

Will's right, on the square body trucks, the pumps are partially under the cab. for the 1500+ series newer body style they are accessible by lifting the bed. ether way on these older rigs, your almost going to have to torch off a couple of bolts holding the bed on the frame due to rust and years of dirt under there.

dropping the tanks isn't that bad, just a dirty job. tanks are mounted outside the frame and you don't have to loosen the straps to pull the tank. the straps are attached to a bracket which has 4 bolts on the frame. the hardest part is getting to the fuel lines above as it's a tight area to get your hands into and have to feel around vs seeing what your doing.

btw... PB blaster and WD-40 is your friend in this situation

 

[MrMarty51]

And a lively air compressor and blow nozzle to get the most of the sand, dirt and gravel out of everything before starting.

 

[aerofxr]

1988 R30 is still the square body style of truck.
When I replaced the tanks on a 1987 K1500 that I once owned, IIRC, the tanks was partially under the cab, but My memory just dont totally recall the exact location.
I do remember dropping both tanks to replace them.
If the tank openings for the pumps is under the bed/box then removing the box would be an easier method. In My personal opinion.

For what it's worth. I've got a 1993 and a 1991 K2500 w/350's in both. One of the first things I do in order to make changing the fuel pumps manageable when they fail is to cut a 10" x 10" hole in the bed right over the fuel tank's round access plate. The hole is near the front of the driver's side of the bed and is easily covered with a piece of sheet metal and flush fasteners, so they don't catch anything e.g .4' x 8' plywood) being slid onto the bed. HOWEVER, many don't want to cut the bed and I'm not sure how double tanks are configured. So, it may not work anyway. But it sure beat emptying the fuel tank and taking it out.

 

[SnowDrift]

For what it's worth. I've got a 1993 and a 1991 K2500 w/350's in both. One of the first things I do in order to make changing the fuel pumps manageable when they fail is to cut a 10" x 10" hole in the bed right over the fuel tank's round access plate. The hole is near the front of the driver's side of the bed and is easily covered with a piece of sheet metal and flush fasteners, so they don't catch anything e.g .4' x 8' plywood) being slid onto the bed. HOWEVER, many don't want to cut the bed and I'm not sure how double tanks are configured. So, it may not work anyway. But it sure beat emptying the fuel tank and taking it out.

Original poster has a different setup than the later models you mentioned.

For what it's worth, though, cutting into sheet metal is usually introducing a new place for rust to begin. However, if it was already a rust bucket, then it's probably a better solution than trying to remove 30 year old bolts.

 

[MrMarty51]

For what it's worth. I've got a 1993 and a 1991 K2500 w/350's in both. One of the first things I do in order to make changing the fuel pumps manageable when they fail is to cut a 10" x 10" hole in the bed right over the fuel tank's round access plate. The hole is near the front of the driver's side of the bed and is easily covered with a piece of sheet metal and flush fasteners, so they don't catch anything e.g .4' x 8' plywood) being slid onto the bed. HOWEVER, many don't want to cut the bed and I'm not sure how double tanks are configured. So, it may not work anyway. But it sure beat emptying the fuel tank and taking it out.

Is Your trucks like the older generation before the 1988 ?
The old Square Body units ?
The Square Body units, the tanks had to be dropped from under neath of the cab, not the box.
Like the 1973 to the 1987 style of trucks.
This is a 1987.

 

[jeaserve]

If you do it that way your fender flares are going to hit the tires(depending on what size rubber you have) on the other side before you get it high enough to pull the pumps i would think. You would still have to at least loosen the bolts on passenger side and unplug tail light wires.

Thanks to all of you for the great suggestions... I still have not made a decision yet... If I take to someone, they may not clean the tanks like I want it... Hopefully I will find a location to do the work myself... I am not allowed to work on my truck where it is parked. Rafael

 

[jeaserve]

If you do it that way your fender flares are going to hit the tires(depending on what size rubber you have) on the other side before you get it high enough to pull the pumps i would think. You would still have to at least loosen the bolts on passenger side and unplug tail light wires.

Purchased on 12-27-1987 - sorry for the typo. Rafael

 

[jeaserve]

Is Your trucks like the older generation before the 1988 ?
The old Square Body units ?
The Square Body units, the tanks had to be dropped from under neath of the cab, not the box.
Like the 1973 to the 1987 style of trucks.
This is a 1987.
View attachment 79725

Purchased on 12-27-1987 - sorry for the typo. Rafael

 

[dbrannon79]

That's a mighty fine looking rig you have there.

 

[MrMarty51]

Yes it is, mighty fine looking rig.