I just bought an LLY...

[treegump]

PCV reroute done.

Still shifting just before redline at WOT. So, instead, I only push the pedal halfway down if I'm rushing. Shifts better in tow mode, if I'm going highway speeds. If I'm cruising through town it stays in gears longer (it won't shift into a cruise gear), but that's fine - its like driving the old truck.

 

[tanman_2006]

These trucks dont go all the way to redline to shift w/ factory programming. What are you wanting it to do?

 

[treegump]

These trucks dont go all the way to redline to shift w/ factory programming. What are you wanting it to do?

I want it to shift earlier, especially if that's how it's supposed to shift. How do I go about that w/o a programmer? Am I just going to have to take it easy till I purchase the Predator or efi live. (which, by the way, I'm a bit conflicted on right now on which to get. Trying to research arguments for the better option.)

 

[tanman_2006]

Redline is at ~3200 rpm, if you have it floored and want it to shift sooner then let out. Other wise factory programming in an LLY holds gear a little longer to save the tranny from lugging.

If you want good tuning go EFI Live. Predator runs a solid second

 

[btfarm]

If you want good tuning go EFI Live. Predator runs a solid second

:agreed: I like the Predator I have but I would go EFI if I started over. And I may still do that.

 

[treegump]

Redline is at ~3200 rpm, if you have it floored and want it to shift sooner then let out. Other wise factory programming in an LLY holds gear a little longer to save the tranny from lugging.

If you want good tuning go EFI Live. Predator runs a solid second

I just wasn't sure if it was normal for an Allison to shift at 3100-3200 rpm, with pedal to floor, stock. And I'm learning to just not push that far. I guess I'm just a bit surprised because honestly I'm not used to driving the Allison/duramax.

Side note: I'm having a difficult time gunning it at intersections and not squeeling the tires and fish tailing. It's fun, but at the same time I really need to stop. :-( :-/

I was originally thinking the predator because it was highly recommended when I first brought it up here. Efi was mentioned, but I don't remember a fighting argument for it. I'm going to start looking at efi now, I think. Does a sponsor have a good deal (price &/or support) on it?

 

[Pepperidge]

I just wasn't sure if it was normal for an Allison to shift at 3100-3200 rpm, with pedal to floor, stock. And I'm learning to just not push that far. I guess I'm just a bit surprised because honestly I'm not used to driving the Allison/duramax.

Side note: I'm having a difficult time gunning it at intersections and not squeeling the tires and fish tailing. It's fun, but at the same time I really need to stop. :-( :-/

I was originally thinking the predator because it was highly recommended when I first brought it up here. Efi was mentioned, but I don't remember a fighting argument for it. I'm going to start looking at efi now, I think. Does a sponsor have a good deal (price &/or support) on it?

Tony at Ridgerunner diesel is running a special right now...IIRC it is:

$299 for a DSP5 switched ecm with core exchange for an LLY
or
$349 for an LBZ/LMM with a DSP5 switched ECM with core exchange

...no extra charge for any custom tuning you want for the truck and you can pick the 5 levels of tuning that you want

 

[tanman_2006]

Tony at Ridgerunner diesel is running a special right now...IIRC it is:

$299 for a DSP5 switched ecm with core exchange for an LLY
or
$349 for an LBZ/LMM with a DSP5 switched ECM with core exchange

...no extra charge for any custom tuning you want for the truck and you can pick the 5 levels of tuning that you want

I think i will give him a call... RIGHT MEOW

 

[treegump]

Got my new Raybestos brakes in, and just ordered my moog steering & edge insight CTS w/ expandable egt monitor

 

[treegump]

Replaced my brakes, and while I was at it, I replaced my driver's side wheel bearing since it was leaking. I found an article that had lots of pictures on how to change the rear rotors, and they said that the top T55 bolt on the caliper was "impossible" to get to. Well, the first 3 pictures shows you what I did: used a 10mm wrench on the T55 bit and a pry bar between the T55 bit & leaf springs for force. Than took my 20oz hammer and hit the 10mm wrench till it broke loose. Note: Don't use a ratcheting box end wrench when loosening because you can't slide the bolt out with the bit in it at its normal location...and with a ratcheting wrench you can't tighten it back in. (Almost was too late when I found that out.


I'm very thankful that the owner of the pole barn had some big tools he inherited from either his father or grandfather, such as this awesome 2 prong pulley that I used to pull the rotors off...and a 2lb sledge when it was under pressure.


Evidence of a leaking wheel bearing:


My workspace. There were tools there, but not everything that I needed. It was easier to use what I had and borrow what I needed than scrounging thru their multiple toolboxes and pulling the extras from my tools.


So...Raybestos R-300 rotors, Police pads, advanced shoes, and new hardware (brake & e-brake) installed in rear. Haven't gotten to the Moog steering, but that'll be the next project. Possibly tomorrow afternoon/evening, or possibly another time when auto parts places will be open, and I have a time scheduled for realignment.

Btw, I drove back to my apartment and felt both sides to see if they were hot or cool. The passenger side felt fine (warm, but not hot), but the driver's side (where I replaced the wheel seal) was too hot to keep my hand on. Could it be the wheel seal? If I don't hear from anyone by the time I leave in the morning, I intend on loosening the retaining nut in the axle by 1 key hole and hope that that fixes it. (When I put the axle back together after installing the seal, I tightened the nut to 52ft-lb, loosened, and tightened by hand. But then I had to tighten it by about a 1/4" to get the key in.

 

[treegump]

I also installed the Edge Insight CTS. Did not get the EGT (expandable) probe installed though, but plan on doing it sometime sooner rather than later.

These first 2 were near after start-up. Maybe a few minutes of running. (And after charging the batteries up since I killed the trucks' batteries second time in 2 days. )



These 2 are after 20 min of driving back to my apartment. This is after I parked and adjusted my display. Not sure what to keep on my display..


If anything stands out, please let me know. My EFI Live will be ordered this week, so if the numbers look off, maybe the new programs will take care of that...

 

[treegump]

I replaced my inner & outer tie rods (moog), centerlink (raybestos), pitman arm (moog), idler arm (moog), and idler arm bracket (moog) & steering stabilizer (oreilly rancho). It felt good and tight when I left the shop that night. (Even though the truck hadn't been aligned yet.) It sat for a day, and then a friend picked it up Monday night and drove it home. He said when he drove it today (Tuesday), before & after the alignment, the front seemed really bouncy, as if the shocks (Monroe Reflex) had gone bad (overnight!?!). I noticed the same thing when I drove it - super bouncy. Also, the steering, though straight (and camber straight too), still feels really loose. Any thoughts?

The plastic transmission clip linkage that I fixed with baling wire.

 

[treegump]

Hmmm... can't edit the earlier post:

I replaced my inner & outer tie rods (moog), centerlink (raybestos), pitman arm (moog), idler arm (moog), and idler arm bracket (moog) & steering stabilizer (oreilly rancho). It felt good and tight when I left the shop that (Sunday) night. (Even though the truck hadn't been aligned yet.) It sat for a (Mon)day, and then a friend picked it up Monday night and drove it home. He said when he drove it today (Tuesday), before & after the alignment, the front seemed really bouncy, as if the shocks (Monroe Reflex) had gone bad (overnight!?!). I noticed the same thing when I drove it - super bouncy. Also, the steering, though straight (and camber straight too), still feels really loose. There is play in the steering gear box, but why would it feel tight before the alignment? Would the front tires toed-in by a less than an inch really make it feel that tight? Any thoughts?

As far as the bounce. If the A-arms are fully stretched the shocks are fully stretched out. Could the shocks have gone bad since the front end was fully stretched for a day and a half while I was working on the front end?

Also, I forgot to freeze the outer tierod ball joints so they'd slide into steering knuckles, so they were super difficult to get in. The castle nuts didn't go on far enough to fit the cotter pins in so I put blue lock-tite on temporarily, and after a few days I'll stick the 1/2" impact gun back on them and put red lock-tite on them. Since the tie-rods are hardened steel I can't (or could barely) drill new holes.

 

[treegump]

When I'm off my phone I'll expand and post pics as well.

-steering: I stupidly installed the outer tie rods upside down. (Idiot). And the shop made sure they pointed out that I was stupid for installing the entire steering system (even though that's the only thing i did wrong). They also implied I was an idiot for putting a nut for a spacer to prevent the shock from over stretching, but their argument was that the spacer in the shock would prevent the bump stop from doing its thing. (I don't think so...)

-ECM: the ECM did end up having a bug in it, but it was switched to serial setting. Just a freak occurance, but from the research that I did trying to solve that, I did come across articles that showed the cts also has random problems, so I had tony change the ECM from serial to hard wire. I've since installed the switch where the stock fog light push button switch was, since my fog lights are pieces of crap.

-I've also gotten rid of both my muffler and cat. I went a short time with the exhaust ending right under the passenger side front door, but have since stuck it through my bed and have a single 3.5" stack. I tried using the flex tubing with the stock "U" piece to get around that support, but now my pipe hangs down below my frame rail. I'll eventually buy a 90* elbow, but just haven't yet. I was told of a 90 that has a 2-way flap to allow for precipitation drainage but not allow smoke to escape? I might look into that.

-headache rack: I used a box tube and a piece of angle iron to straighten up the front of the box. I'll hopefully be able to use that set up as a base for a headache rack that I'd like to install since I don't have a toolbox to protect stuff from bouncing up into the back window.


thats it for now, that I can think of.

 

[treegump]

DSP5 switch installed

Stack Installed - stock size though. (3.5" exhaust pipe was bought at NAPA for $7/ft.) Will probably go 4 or 5" when I can figure out what material I want to use, and when I can afford it.

Center Console Removal