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I got the 6.2 blues

bk95td said:
A point that everyone forgot is :when the engine is shut off, the cooling system pressure is greater than the oil pressure. The coolant will go into the oil.
If the engine was run with water or anti-freeze in the oil the bearings are history.
A engine that has sat for 10 years should be opened up to check the cylinders for rust. Just the condensation from temp change will rust them. I'd offer less than $300 for it.
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That is true but he has oil in the coolant, that was his first symptom, :sad:
 
just thinking out loud. Could it be a crack that only shows up when hot? might be why it's so hard to find. or it was a small crack that's getting bigger?
 
It's just bothering me that he did not properly install the headgaskets but that should not put coolant in the oil. Really need to find it. Guessing is pointless.
 
I was thinking about it and i'm not sure if it matters or not but maybe. After the heads were put back on the truck didn't drive hot, and there is an oil leak, so I checked the oil level a couple days after the heads were back on and it was about a quart low. Then I drove it to work the next day and the heater cores (or just one) went out and it got hot, I think to around 220* (was still a quart low of oil after this incident). The next day though while going to work was when it got to about 240* and later when I got home and checked the oil level it was way over the full mark, probably at like 200% full.
 
RNation said:
I was thinking about it and i'm not sure if it matters or not but maybe. After the heads were put back on the truck didn't drive hot, and there is an oil leak, so I checked the oil level a couple days after the heads were back on and it was about a quart low. Then I drove it to work the next day and the heater cores (or just one) went out and it got hot, I think to around 220* (was still a quart low of oil after this incident). The next day though while going to work was when it got to about 240* and later when I got home and checked the oil level it was way over the full mark, probably at like 200% full.
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Did you check it RIGHT when you got home? When it was still overheated? If so, then it's a coolant to crankcase leak, not coolant to oil galleys/lifter bores/etc. Was it blowing any white smoke out the exhaust when it overheated? If so, prob a HG. If not, then possibly a seal elsewhere? Timing cover?

And either way, I'm sorry to say, the 200% overfull dipstick reading is pretty much the final word in what needs to be done, because you'll need to pull the bottom end apart now regardless, and replace the bearings at the very minimum. (I assume the oil was very milky-looking? Should have been, with that much water in it.) So you might as well have your heads pressure checked while you're at it. The head gaskets might tell the tale when you look at them.

I wouldn't go grabbing a new block without checking very carefully what it needs. If it has to be bored over, that means new pistons, and that means more $$.

You never know... the block you have may be just fine. It's zero hour. Open 'er up.
 
Bearings could be OK if he didn't drive it alot. Could probably flush the motor and be fine. Idiots that drive with peanut butter in the cranckcase for 2 weeks before finally saying..Hey it's broke..they have issues.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Bearings could be OK if he didn't drive it alot. Could probably flush the motor and be fine. Idiots that drive with peanut butter in the cranckcase for 2 weeks before finally saying..Hey it's broke..they have issues.
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Very BLACK peanut butter:eek::D
 
I checked the oil stick after the engine cooled down which I thought was the right way so the oil all settles back down. It was blowing out white smoke also.

I didn't drive it much at all after the overheating, maybe 10 - 15 miles. I'm not sure if that's enough to mess up the bearings or not.

The motor I was looking at was the whole thing minus the heads and maybe oil pan. So the pistons are still in there. And some one mentioned about having rust in the cylinders, but after looking at the pictures I don't see any rust there. The engine actually appears to be pretty clean.
 
So the next step would be to take the heads back off and perhaps have them pressure checked and magnafluxed? Also check the HG for signs of failure?

Would a coolant to crankcase leak cause oil to breach the cooling system when the truck shuts off and the oil pressure goes lower than the coolant pressure like bk said in an earlier post?

If that's so does anyone know how I could go about checking to know for sure it's a coolant to crankcase leak and where about the actual leak is at?

Another thing that might help me understand more of what you guys are saying is if someone knows where I might be able to find a picture of the entire motor with labels, because like I said before I'm a drywaller and this mechanic stuff is pretty cool but the terminology and locations of the different areas are all a foreign language to me.
 
when you did the original head gasket, how'd they look. any broken rings, did it come of easily(the gasket itself)? any streaks(trail) on the head or block? it's starting to sound like the HG has failed.
 
Given the white smoke (BIG clue), I'd consider borrowing another diesel truck to jump yours with, and doing a compression check. You have a leak between the cooling system and the combustion chambers. Could be cracked heads, leaking head gaskets, cracked block, or...?

Also wondering if perhaps the oil you were seeing in your radiator was diesel fuel rather than motor oil.

Compression test will tell you which cylinder(s), then try retorqueing the head gaskets and test again. If it hasn't improved anything, then pull the heads and inspect the gaskets at the low cyl's. If the gasket looks okay, check the heads.

I'm with Aces & JAN... I think your gaskets may have failed. I'd rule that out before going on to try to diagnose a more severe problem.

You can find an exploded diagram of the motor at Peninsular Diesel's website. Look for their "manual", it's a pdf download, iirc. If there's something more specific you need, I can post pages from the FSM for you.

Suggestion: Take pics and post them here as you go... you'll likely get better troubleshooting help.
 
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Before we took the old HG's off we did a compression test. The driver side ranged from 370 to 350 and the passenger side was 280 to 350 (the actual numbers were 280, 320, 290, 350). So we figured that was the problem. They were kind of funny looking like when particle wood gets water logged, they were like that around the cylinder spots. The passenger side gasket did stick to the head a bit when we were trying to take the head off the block. I didn't notice any trail or streaks on the heads or block.

What do you mean to borrow another diesel to jump mine with to do a compression check?

There is defiantly oil in coolant and not fuel, that's been confirmed by quite a few guys and a few mechanics.

As far as doing a compression check. At this point I have VC's fuel injector lines, and intake off. Can I do a compression check by just putting the VC's back on and unplugging the injector pump's electric (I believe the first time we did it we were told to unplug one of the two connections to the IP to save on battery juice)?

Pictures are not a problem, what pictures would be most help?
 
to get a really accurate compression check you need to pull all the glows so the engine spins real fast. also need 2 hot batts. ip electronics don't use a ton of electricity. should disconnect the shut off selenoid for safety.
 
yes, unplug power to IP or fuel will be a pumpin everywhere since you have the IP lines off. You know, I have never tried it but i gave the idea to Dave and I think he did, You CAN run the engine with the valve covers off(Have to put inj lines back on and maybe see something..
 
Acesneights1 said:
yes, unplug power to IP or fuel will be a pumpin everywhere since you have the IP lines off. You know, I have never tried it but i gave the idea to Dave and I think he did, You CAN run the engine with the valve covers off(Have to put inj lines back on and maybe see something..
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I've done it on my 98 when doing diagnostics.
 
Acesneights1 said:
yes, unplug power to IP or fuel will be a pumpin everywhere since you have the IP lines off. You know, I have never tried it but i gave the idea to Dave and I think he did, You CAN run the engine with the valve covers off(Have to put inj lines back on and maybe see something..
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Of course you can, just be ready for the oil mess, :mad2:
 
This isn't mine but I found it for a good deal I think. $300 plus shipping. Would it be worth just replacing it with this one for the price? I realize I'll have to spend more than just the 300. This is the one I was talking about a few posts ago. These are the pictures the guy sent me, he's about 560 miles away so I can't inspect it myself. But it's supposed to have no miles (maybe a few though), because it was on a car lot and got hail damage.

 
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