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Hydrogen generator on 1994 GM 6.5TD

S

seza

New Member
Hi there,

I recently bought an HHO kit that I hope to install on my 1994 Chevy Sub 6.5TD (with mechanical pump).
I have heard that IDI engines such as the 6.5TD are not suitable for HHO, is that true? It will be great to hear from someone who has experience of HHO on the 6.5TD,

My other question is where to introduce the HHO into the engine? before the turbo or after? my understanding is that if you install it before there is a risk the turbo will suck the liquid from the babbler? if so how to prevent that?

thank you
 
IMO, it must be connected at the turbo output , at the air intake, not between the air filter and before the turbo...
 
Thank you for your reply, the turbo produces lots of pressure (up to 30psi), that is likely to affect the HHO kit - I geuss
 
I would think it to be a waste of money. But that's me. Reason being, it'll give you some power but what kind of power is it taking away from you to generate that power. I guess it goes back to that perpetual motion thing I saw once. Nothing ever gives you more energy than what you put into it without some kind of cost.
 
With this time of fumigation it has to be input before the turbo, where the turbo pulls the vacuum, vice trying to inject something at higher than boost pressure. Accounting for atmospheric then the pressure can be about 30psi post turbo, compared to the vacuum pre turbo, which is lower than atmospheric.

I fumigate propane pre-turbo, but inject water post turbo, because the water I have on a 100psi pump and can overcome the manifold pressure, and I dont want water hitting my compressor blades. A gas like propane or HHO will have no affect on the compressor blades.

The problem becomes that of creating energy with the alternator. At idle, the stock CS130 alternator sucks, there is no extra wasted capacity to run the HHO generator, although perhaps cruising at 2000rpm there is some excess capacity that the alternator is simply wasting in heat that can go towards the HHO generator. However, if you upgrade the alternator (more money) to a CS144 that can output 140-200 amps then you will get excess capacity at idle and more at cruising speeds. Since the alternator spins all the time regardless some of it gets wasted as heat and there may be some savings by trapping that and creating the Browns gas

You can see how I fumigate the propane with sparge tubes pre-turbo in this thread
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...e-Project-Pics&p=174170&viewfull=1#post174170
 
buddy said:
<snip>...
The problem becomes that of creating energy with the alternator. At idle, the stock CS130 alternator sucks, there is no extra wasted capacity to run the HHO generator, although perhaps cruising at 2000rpm there is some excess capacity that the alternator is simply wasting in heat that can go towards the HHO generator. However, if you upgrade the alternator (more money) to a CS144 that can output 140-200 amps then you will get excess capacity at idle and more at cruising speeds. Since the alternator spins all the time regardless some of it gets wasted as heat and there may be some savings by trapping that and creating the Browns gas

...<snip>
Click to expand...

Agreeing with what buddy has stated, an automotive alternator has varying power output ratings (power = volts x amps, hence, if voltage is constant at 12V, it can be considered amp output) dependent on the rotational speed. "Rating" means that dependent on the electrical load, the alternator can generate "up to" the rating. If the electrical load is more than the alternator power output, the balance not supplied by the alternator is taken (literally) from the battery. The alternator will also place an increasing load on the engine as the electrical load on the alternator increases.

If you know your alternator's power output rating at idle, you could hook up a reference/shunted ammeter and measure the electrical load at idle -- the difference, assuming the electrical load is less than the alternator's output rating, can go towards supplying power to the HHO generator. Take measurements as you start switching on accessories, etc. to increase the electrical load. The HHO generator's load can, thus, be measured this way.

With diesel engines being 50% more efficient than petrol engines, they are still inefficient at producing power from the combustion process. Adding oxygen for a cleaner/more efficient burn and hydrogen as an additional fuel in the power generation only increases the engine's efficiency if it's a positive tradeoff, i.e., when the extra load on the alternator/engine to produce HHO results in an efficiency gain from introducing hydrogen and oxygen to the combustion process. This tradeoff should be a measured at varying engine speeds/loads, i.e., not only at idle.

*** Introduce HHO pre-turbo. I would introduce it at/into the air cleaner in the likely event liquid makes it's way from the HHO generator (if poorly made/designed) to minimize the amount ingested by the turbo.
 
Thank you all - guys, that def helps but I am still bit apprehensive about installing the HHO kit fearing that it might cause some internal damage (ie grenading the engine due to pre-combustion chamber),
also, if I introduce gas pre-turbo would that cause the turbo to "suck" the liquid out of the babbler?

I will be grateful if someone can shed some light on the above

many thanks
 
the problem he's talking about is the vacuum sucking water as the HHO bubbles can't be made fast enough. if you suck water you lose your electrolytic action and no more HHO now if he was after WMI that would be diff
 
The "babbler" is a container with a hose on it right?

If yes, the vacuum created by the turbo will pull through the air filter before the container.

Now if this "babbler" if open on the other end, then you have to worry about vacuum pulling whatever is in it into the engine.

Path of least resistance and all that jazz....
 
Just stay away from open bath/wet cell HHO generators in general because of their inefficiencies. Dry cell HHO generators are the way to go.

With both wet and dry cell designs, the bubbler (doubles as the last line of defence flash-arrestor) has to be designed so that there is minimal, if any, sloshing/splashing.

The engine ALWAYS draws more (vacuum) than the HHO generator can produce.

To avoid any liquid water ingestion, pipe the output of the bubbler as a tap into the housing/ducting BEFORE the air filter, preferably below the air filter (use gravity to your advantage). This way, no regulator will be required (no fiddling around with pressure differentials) and any liquid will be separated before/by the filter (as it happens with rain water, snow, etc.)... no need for air/water separators. Thus, the engine draws in whatever the HHO generator can produce and the balance from the atmosphere. Sweet and simple...
 
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