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HX35 Install Any Tips?

If you plan on doing this make sure you have all your tools and parts ready with a good time frame. I crammed this whole project into a single weekend. So I put in alot of hours so it would be driveable Sunday night..... Sum stuff got rushed
 
DZZ71 said:
If you plan on doing this make sure you have all your tools and parts ready with a good time frame. I crammed this whole project into a single weekend. So I put in alot of hours so it would be driveable Sunday night..... Sum stuff got rushed
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If you don't mind can you make a list of all the parts tools and mods it took? I doubt i change the DP if it's not necessary to swap the turbo so that would cut out some time.
 
If I were you I'd add one in when I had one on my truck I blew a head gasket running 15 lbs max with arp head studs. If not i'd make sure your radiator is nice and clean.
 
6.5coalroller said:
If I were you I'd add one in when I had one on my truck I blew a head gasket running 15 lbs max with arp head studs. If not i'd make sure your radiator is nice and clean.
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Hey I noticed you said you had one on your truck. What differences did you notice with the HX35 and the ATT? Pros cons?
 
My radiator is perfect! I have a duramax fan on the way with a stock fan clutch set @ 200*.

I understand everyone recomends an IC but if it is higher flowing, less back pressure wouldn't it have lower EGT? Its going on my 1/2 ton so it wont be used for towing.

They don't use an IC on ATT so why is a Holset different?
 
Acesneights1 said:
If you read Turbine docs original ATT thread he discusses his results with and without IC and why he chose not to use it.
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My understanding was that he ran the IC just in case there were problems with heat and in case the turbo came apart there would be more parts between the turbo and the engine.

That is a long thread to reread. I just want to know why the Holset needs an IC and the ATT can be run safely w/o one. I know that when pushing hard that it is better to run the IC with increased fuel.

I would rather run water/meth from heath before I use IC.
 
Even with the ATT and the kind of fuel I am able to command with constant high boost the IATs get high. If not going to be towing something heavy often it will never be a problem. Water injection would do the same thing and more than an I/C but then you add moving electrical parts and potential to damage the engine with too much water or methanol or just some water leaking into intake when not running and pooling instead of the atomized mist when under pressure. Thats why you have to use good nozzles and solenoids and stuff, or a good system. I/C is kind of set it and forget it, dont have to continue feeding it and no real operating costs.

Not necessary to run an I/C with anything, just good for pursuit of reliable power.
 
I checked my temps on intercooler and with the cooler by its self crusing wound town was about 120-125 then i flicked my fan on and it dropped to 75-80.....
 
Intercooler cant help much when there is no airflow over it. Got to be moving down the road a good speed with good flow over it. At low speeds then a fan would push more air through it.
 
buddy said:
Intercooler cant help much when there is no airflow over it. Got to be moving down the road a good speed with good flow over it. At low speeds then a fan would push more air through it.
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I have fan from a car mounted behind my intercooler. With the fan off the cooler gets pretty darn hot. But once i turn it on olny about the first 2 inches of the cooler are even warm the rest is cold. I notice better throttle responce with it on. And removing the crank fan made a noticable difference as well. Im never goin back.
 
Do you have pics of the intercooler setup posted somewhere? Would be neat to see.

Is any fan on there running when things get hot? If no fan is on the crank then its not pulling any air at idle or low speeds so metal things will get hotter. Even when crank fan clutch is not engaged it spins and pulls a lot of air though the radiator.
 
if you are having good heat control with the eletric fan on the radiator,
would you share the part # and brand name?
 
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Samyguy said:
if you are having good heat control with the eletric fan on the radiator,
would you share the part # and brand name?
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I went quading this weekend and with it in the box from a stand still i can go WOT till 140 and the temp guage olny moved 2 notches And they dropped quite quick with the fans on low. I don't even have em on down the highway. Now maybe its becaues i have a different rad i don't know. I put in a trannsmission cooler in so i dident half to use the one in the radiator. So i put a rad in from a standard 6.5 that doesent come with coolers. And i cleaned the shit out of it before i put it in. Now i don't have any part numbers for the fans. They are just used ones i got out of a for taurus with the 3.8. they pull the most CFM. make sure its NOT the 3.0 engine. Mine arnt done yet i still have to finnish wireing but you can kinda see how i did my set up.
 

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was that WOT to 140mph?

With that setup the intercooler wont help much around town unless you have the fans on. Either need to moving 40+mph or have fans on for it to get enough air for there to be effective heat transfer, and so it will also pick up the radiant heat of the radiator too unless fans are on. So your earlier posts make sense why there was such a large IAT difference with fans off and on.
 
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