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How did you fix the ISS clunk?

I put in a new GM dealer lower column bearing and spent the coin on a ISS from these guys via summit or jegs:
http://www.borgeson.com/

I do get rattle noise now and then over bad bumps , but, I do not feel it in the steering wheel now. Major improvement over stock ISS and not too hard of an install.
 
Gerald......You may want to change the bushing first and stay with the clamp. I still use a heavy duty stainless clamp and experimented with tightening it up in certain spots around the bushing. I think up to 2006 the bushing are white and contain ball bearings. The 2007's came with the green bushing which contains needle bearings and controls the pressure differently. The are both made out of plastic. I would try the newer styled bushing first. You will never get rid of the problem 100%. The best you will get is about 85-90% of the rattle to disappear.
 
I Thought I had the Steering Clunk on my Truck, was the same Symptoms, but it Turned Out to be that there were no Rubber Bushings at the Ends of the Brake Caliper Slide Bolts. Got the Bushings Installed and the Clunk totally went Away.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I do have the white bushing, and will probably order a green one. Seems the green ones have less of an issue from what I've been reading. The wheel feels alot better with that muffler clamp on already. Not good enough for me though.
As for the rubber bushings James, I'll look into that also.

I did read a thread on another site that had a guy pull the shaft out and covered it with silicone and stuck it back together. This may also be something to look into.

Thanks again guys.
 
You're gonna have to Look in the Hole for the Caliper Slides with a Light. Gonna be a PITA, but that might be where your Clunking is coming from, so it's worth it.
 
Dieseldad97 said:
...

I did read a thread on another site that had a guy pull the shaft out and covered it with silicone and stuck it back together. This may also be something to look into.
Click to expand...

Band aid fix at best. The shaft needs to move in and out so RTV is bad and silicone grease has a time to fix like regular grease does. Soon as the grease is gone it gets sloppy. A better designed part without GM bean counter influence is what is needed. After all they suffered us with this issue since 1999 on all pickups and maybe some other models...

A other clunk you get is the cab bolts snapping rather than sliding on the frame. Mylar washer under the bolt head is said to fix this on another thread in here.
 
On mine I just remove the pinch bolt on the ISS near the exhaust manifold, slide the shaft back and forth a few times, and reinstall the bolt. This just redistributes the grease on the splines. Seems to cure the clunk for six months or so on my truck, and it only takes about 10 minutes to do.
 
Update fella's: Still have the muffler clamp around the white bearing. I figured I'd do the shaft greasing before spending money on a green bearing.

I removed the shaft and installed a grease zerk on it. I was surprised the shaft had zero play in it, but was dry as a bone. After installing the zerk and greasing it up, I put it back in thinking it wasn't my clunk problem because of the lack of play.

Boy was I ever wrong. The feel on the wheel feels like new. Wow. From now on, when it starts to clunk I'll just reach in there and give er a few pumps of grease to quiet it down.

I'll update this thread as things change.
 
Good to hear Gerald. Where did you put the zerk fitting? Do you have any photos? This is good to know. Thanks for the update.
 
Thanks guys. Here are a few pics to get a better idea of what happened.
 

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Thanks guys! I can't believe GM never came out with an easy fix like this. I asked our local dealer what they do and get this...they grease them up over and over for customers. Nothing like getting robbed once per year haha. They said they've don hundreds and hundreds of them. Nice job GM. I'm losing faith in their products...
 
Putting a cap on the end of the shaft and adding the zerk fitting is good for stopping the clunk, but will be a very bad thing if you get in a front end collision. With the cavity below the splines packed full of grease the steering shaft will not be able to compress the way it is designed to. I'm sure that is why GM does not fix them that way.
 
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