Hot all the time wire to the trailer plu, 1998 Suburban I would like it a key on wire

[jrsavoie]

I would like to change the factory hot wire to the trailer plug to be hot when the key is on with a 30 amp fuse.

It comes out right at the under fuse box and was attached to one of the hot all the time lugs.

What is the best way to achieve this? Given it's proximatey to a power source would it be easiest to use a relay to achieve my goal?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I used a relay on mine and triggerred off of a key on source in the run position.

 

[jrsavoie]

Can anybody recomend a good relay and socket I'd say with 40 - 50 amp capacity.

Would the same relay and socket style I used for the Dual relay lift pump upgrade on the 95 & 94 truck work?

 

[NVW]

A Ford starter relay would work. Harbor freight should have something similar for less.

 

[great white]

With all due respect to Leo, don't use a starter relay. They're intermittent duty and not for this type of application.

Go get yourself a cole hersee continuous duty relay. Get the rubber coated one like the 24063-08 and you can mount it in an exterior location.

I run two 60 A Cole Hersee coated relays under the hood to cut the accessory power feeds I have in the truck. Everything from the 600W amp to the brake controller. These relays are dependable and rated for constant use in harsh environments. I really don't like parasitic losses.....

 

[jrsavoie]

http://www.ase-supply.com/Cole_Hersee_24063_08_24V_p/ch-24063-08.htm

That number is a 24 volt. How will that work in a 12 volt system?

I would assume it would be just fine but I've been wrong before. Especially on stuff that I know little to nothing about.

https://www.google.com/search?q=24063-08&sugexp=chrome,mod=2&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

[Edzzed]

I use something like this, http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-converters/battery-relay.htm The way it is wired allows the trailer to drain it's battery and not the truck unless I am bombed and leave the key in the run position with the engine off. lol

 

[NVW]

That's good to know.

With all due respect to Leo, don't use a starter relay. They're intermittent duty and not for this type of application.

Go get yourself a cole hersee continuous duty relay. Get the rubber coated one like the 24063-08 and you can mount it in an exterior location.

I run two 60 A Cole Hersee coated relays under the hood to cut the accessory power feeds I have in the truck. Everything from the 600W amp to the brake controller. These relays are dependable and rated for constant use in harsh environments. I really don't like parasitic losses.....

 

[WarWagon]

Use a 30 amp "Breaker" not a fuse for the hot wire same for the "Brakes". Thus your trailer brake controller is not fed off the factory fuse. You feed it off the bolt that goes direct to the battery on the back of the underhood fuse box. Then to the breaker then to the trailer brake controller. A intermittent short will give you brakes some of the time not pop another fuse, pop another fuse and no brakes in the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere on a mountain pass...

24 volt coils may not pull in on 12 volts.