6.5L
Old Iron Runner
High boost levels will cause high intake air temps
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Holset HX-40 Super??
- Thread starter pacificdrumma
- Start date
pacificdrumma
Well-Known Member
Understood. Can anyone tell by looking at the exhaust if RaceDay's down pipe will work?
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
What size is the v band flange on the turbine outlet?
pacificdrumma
Well-Known Member
Not sure of the flange size, but I know its 4" coming off the a$$ end of the turbo.
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
That's the turbine outlet. His kit will not work, it only works on the smaller 3" v band flange. Do a search and you should find ways to adapt a 4" tight radius elbow on the exhaust outlet.
pacificdrumma
Well-Known Member
Would something like this work? Im not sure how a v band clamp would go on something like this http://store.airflo.com/alshra90deel8.html
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
Yes they did, we keep going over this, mine has a 56mm wheel, its a Volvo turbo, others have said the same and have proof also,
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
That could work, you would need a v band flange welded onto it.
What you need to do is measure the outside diameter of the v band on the turbo exhaust outlet. Should be around 4" but you actually need a 3.5" elbow because the inside diameter Of the turbo outlet is roughly 3.5"
Check out this web site, silicone intakes dot com. I have bought from them several times with good luck. In their site they also explain how v bands are measured and what v band clamps to use
Check out the diesel place web site and do some searching. Many others have done this same swap with the down pipe mod.
Also, you can get a plate from eBay that bolts on the back of the turbo and remove the v band of the turbo then you can just weld the elbow to the plate and just eliminate another leak point and v band clamp.
pacificdrumma
Well-Known Member
Jorge, how does this look? Could I cut it and weld it to the 3" Diamond Eye down pipe?
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
You should be able to cut the v band flange right off the back of the turbo and weld an elbow right to that but you will need a 3" v band flange on the other end of the elbow to mate it it to the down pipe.
pacificdrumma
Well-Known Member
Ah right, because the stock 6.5 turbo has an elbow already on it, so I just need to add the elbow and then I can go back to the oem type fittings. Thanks
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
You will also need an adapter fitting for the oil feed, it has to thread into the turbo and the stock brass oil fitting screws into that. The oil return may need to be extended, just cut it a couple of inches below the turbo and ad a rubber hoes with clamps to bridge the gap. Just check out the 6.2/6.5 performance section on the dieselplace website. Lots of info there about these swaps
pacificdrumma
Well-Known Member
Okay, I was wondering about the oil, that seems pretty straight forward though.
Monarkman
Professional Lurker
Yes they did, we keep going over this, mine has a 56mm wheel, its a Volvo turbo, others have said the same and have proof also,
Ive got the the same turbo and took it apart and measured it before install. The inducer is 56mm. It came on the volvo d7 engines. Turbo was specific to volvo though as "volvo" is cast in the tubine housing, not to mention the goofy exhaust flange. I thought they ran one unless they just used the exhaust housing. Its a 16cm t3.
.
pacificdrumma
Well-Known Member
What did you do for a down pipe?
Are ALL Volvo HX-40's 56mm? My friend who has this turbo says its a 60mm
Monarkman
Professional Lurker
No, there not all 56mm. The pictures are quite a bit different from mine. Mine is a 6 blade compressor. Just looking at it, that inducer looks larger. Looking at mine from the front, the inducer actually looks odd (small) compared to the compressor cover.Mine also has 6 holes on the back for a bolt on type flange. I just made a flange to bolt on that I welded a 3in pipe to connect to factory downpipe. Here's what it looks like.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121281416967
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
Yep, weird exhaust flange but for my application, easily worked around plus right now, just using the compressor side. I have a bored out HX35 housing for the HX40 turbine so I might try that later after I put my 60mm billet wheel on.
pacificdrumma
Well-Known Member
Okay, I need some more help on the down pipe situation. I dont want to cut anything off the turbo, so is my best bet to get a 3.5" short radius elbow and weld a 4" v band flange onto one end and somehow get a 3" v band flange on the other end? Anyone who has done this swap, pics would be much appreciated!!
turbonator
Member
Yes they did, we keep going over this, mine has a 56mm wheel, its a Volvo turbo, others have said the same and have proof also,
take the time and go and read the title of this thread, and i will say it again clearer, no pro40 or super 40 came lower than a 58mm wheel, as far as i am concerned, running the volvo hx 40 with a 56mm wheel and the turbine from the 40 is taking a step backwards, we ran this exact turbo for 2 months, it was a laggy pig under 2000rpm... the WH1C we ran is way better, with the 56mm wheel and the hx 35 turbine wheel / shaft and put out the same CFM... i dont know what volvo was thinking doing a backwards hybrid......
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
If you notice, he has a question mark, and AFAIK, the Volvo turbo's aren't Super40's. Discussion helps the world go around.