I can get the ARP head studs for less than Sumit Racing.
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HIGH mile 6.5L build thread...
- Thread starter restoguy
- Start date
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Just to add some input here.
The loss of oil pressure IMHO was indeed due to the overheating of the oil after the cooler was removed.
The bearings dont look all that bad considering.
The cooler bypass valve in the block has a fairly stout spring in it which requires some fairly good pressure to POP it open.
At a low idle with hot oil the oil pressure in the engine was likely too low to pop the valve resulting in the loss of oil pressure.
The cooler has very little resistance to flow as compared to the bypass valve.
The bypass valve is simply a last ditch effort to save the engine if the cooler were to become clogged.
Your engine should do fine with the low $$ overhaul.
Pistons in these can run fine with .006" clearance or even a tad more. The engine will cluck a bit more when its really cold out but this is not a real big issue.
The little "etching" in the fire deck is quite normal on these engines. The dissimilar metals (iron block and stainless steel fire ring cause electrolysis and result in the etching.
The condition is usually worst at cylinders 1 and 2 where there is coolant laying right alongside the fire rings in the blind water passage in the deck (head has the passage and the block does not)
Installing the inserts in the cneter main outer bolts is a great preventive measure.
As far as the crap in the pan, I am pretty much of the opinion that the stuff had been in there since the rig was new.
Its amazing how much junk shows up in the pan of engines with many miles on them.
Might have been introduced from a contaminated oil can during servicing, ??? just hard to tell
I would do this though. Remove the little soft plug in the block where the oil filter adapter is located and then remove the old bypass valve and replace it with a new one. Replace the filter bypass too.
The metal pieces look like spring parts.
The bypass valves and the plug are available from Ma General.
Just some cheap insurance for your fresh built.
The new bypass valves can be drivien in easily with a deep socket and a small hammer.
Good luck on the build
Missy
The loss of oil pressure IMHO was indeed due to the overheating of the oil after the cooler was removed.
The bearings dont look all that bad considering.
The cooler bypass valve in the block has a fairly stout spring in it which requires some fairly good pressure to POP it open.
At a low idle with hot oil the oil pressure in the engine was likely too low to pop the valve resulting in the loss of oil pressure.
The cooler has very little resistance to flow as compared to the bypass valve.
The bypass valve is simply a last ditch effort to save the engine if the cooler were to become clogged.
Your engine should do fine with the low $$ overhaul.
Pistons in these can run fine with .006" clearance or even a tad more. The engine will cluck a bit more when its really cold out but this is not a real big issue.
The little "etching" in the fire deck is quite normal on these engines. The dissimilar metals (iron block and stainless steel fire ring cause electrolysis and result in the etching.
The condition is usually worst at cylinders 1 and 2 where there is coolant laying right alongside the fire rings in the blind water passage in the deck (head has the passage and the block does not)
Installing the inserts in the cneter main outer bolts is a great preventive measure.
As far as the crap in the pan, I am pretty much of the opinion that the stuff had been in there since the rig was new.
Its amazing how much junk shows up in the pan of engines with many miles on them.
Might have been introduced from a contaminated oil can during servicing, ??? just hard to tell
I would do this though. Remove the little soft plug in the block where the oil filter adapter is located and then remove the old bypass valve and replace it with a new one. Replace the filter bypass too.
The metal pieces look like spring parts.
The bypass valves and the plug are available from Ma General.
Just some cheap insurance for your fresh built.
The new bypass valves can be drivien in easily with a deep socket and a small hammer.
Good luck on the build
Missy
Thanks for the input. Now I have a question. How do I go about getting the old bypass valves out of the block? I was thinking that new ones might be a good idea, but decided to pass rather than fight with the old ones.
Before anyone congragulates me too much on the fine job I'm doing, I should tell you a few things. I didn't have the block bored because I couldn't find torque plates, so it's just a re-ring job. Because the machine shop didn't do any work, other than to check it for cracks, I didn't have them put the inserts in the main webs. I figure it went almost 300K miles the first time, it should be able to go a few more. I'm also re-using my heads, with little more than new seals. Yes they have cracks in every cylinder and they are starting to show some wear on the valves, but new heads are expensive. The old ones weren't leaking and if they can hold on for a few more miles, that'll do. If need be they can be replaced down the road, when I have more funds. I hate to do things this way, but my money tree isn't producing just yet....
Before anyone congragulates me too much on the fine job I'm doing, I should tell you a few things. I didn't have the block bored because I couldn't find torque plates, so it's just a re-ring job. Because the machine shop didn't do any work, other than to check it for cracks, I didn't have them put the inserts in the main webs. I figure it went almost 300K miles the first time, it should be able to go a few more. I'm also re-using my heads, with little more than new seals. Yes they have cracks in every cylinder and they are starting to show some wear on the valves, but new heads are expensive. The old ones weren't leaking and if they can hold on for a few more miles, that'll do. If need be they can be replaced down the road, when I have more funds. I hate to do things this way, but my money tree isn't producing just yet....
I know this is dragging on like a political debate, but here's a little update for anyone who cares.
I've got the motor back together and in the truck. I found a guy not too far away that was selling two 1999 6.5's that were NA and had bottom end problems. Both taken from ambulances he said, by the local GM dealer.(they had been previous replacements obviously) I had one set of heads freshened up and used them. They were "T" cup instead of diamond, but I understand they're about the same and it made me feel better to know I was using 'good' parts. I stayed with the stamped rockers and put new buttons in. I also replaced the bypasses in the block. The beast went in with a set of Energy Suspension motor mount inserts and a ES trans mount. I bought upgraded starting cables and glow plug harneses from ?racedaymechanic? and put them in as well. I ordered ALL brand new GM sensors, balancer, drive pulley, and a DMax fan. While the truck was sitting injured, I had bought a DSG oil cooler, used, so it was cleaned and went in with the engine. It's been running pretty good. Timing is within factory spec, but needs 'adjusted'. Oh yeah, I bought a Tech2 from the owner of the now-closed local GM dealer! Next on the list is an exhaust system, gauges, and a tune. I'm thinking it's going to needs some money in the front end first, though! Yeesh, it's not much fun to drive as is. Here's a few pics.
I've got the motor back together and in the truck. I found a guy not too far away that was selling two 1999 6.5's that were NA and had bottom end problems. Both taken from ambulances he said, by the local GM dealer.(they had been previous replacements obviously) I had one set of heads freshened up and used them. They were "T" cup instead of diamond, but I understand they're about the same and it made me feel better to know I was using 'good' parts. I stayed with the stamped rockers and put new buttons in. I also replaced the bypasses in the block. The beast went in with a set of Energy Suspension motor mount inserts and a ES trans mount. I bought upgraded starting cables and glow plug harneses from ?racedaymechanic? and put them in as well. I ordered ALL brand new GM sensors, balancer, drive pulley, and a DMax fan. While the truck was sitting injured, I had bought a DSG oil cooler, used, so it was cleaned and went in with the engine. It's been running pretty good. Timing is within factory spec, but needs 'adjusted'. Oh yeah, I bought a Tech2 from the owner of the now-closed local GM dealer! Next on the list is an exhaust system, gauges, and a tune. I'm thinking it's going to needs some money in the front end first, though! Yeesh, it's not much fun to drive as is. Here's a few pics.
Last edited:
sshewins
Jesus Freak
Sounds like its holding up just fine. Any pics yet?
GM Guy
Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
Was the guy on the other side of hays with the heads?
Yes, in Victoria. You saw that ad too? Pretty good deal on the engines I thought. Gave $300 for both, one was just a long block and unknown condition/miles. The other was complete, running when it came in, and supposed to have about 40K on it. They were both NA motors so I think I should have a good collection of parts if nothing else. I pulled the heads from the long block and it looked as if they'd never changed the oil...but everything was fine with the heads.
OK, here's the pics I promised.
Bottom end together. Doing the 'studly' thing.
Doing a 'test run' of the parts so I can admire my work and make motor noises.
Got it together. Polished injector lines!...for now.
Ready for installation.
Bottom end together. Doing the 'studly' thing.
Doing a 'test run' of the parts so I can admire my work and make motor noises.
Got it together. Polished injector lines!...for now.
Ready for installation.
THIS IS WHY YOU ALWAYS USE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB!! Luckily, it was almost where I wanted it and nothing was damaged. More importantly, no one was hurt. I've used this hoist 3 times before on 6.5's and I usually put a 50lb bag of feed or something on the back. This time I didn't and it almost cost me. BTW, I'm in the market for a better hoist now...
These motor mounts look less than 'useable'. 290K is about the limit for a factory mount, I think.
Almost ready for a test run to check for leaks! (there were a few)
These motor mounts look less than 'useable'. 290K is about the limit for a factory mount, I think.
Almost ready for a test run to check for leaks! (there were a few)
jeffrey98335
Member
Well, how does she run? I just read thru your whole post and I am dying to know....:thumbsup:
dieselfuelonly
Active Member
Wow and just a work of art right there. I really like the paint and that is Detroit engine paint I see or close to it...we stock that where I work because of all the Series 60 engines we see come in. Looks real good with the aluminum looking new and the polished fuel injection lines, now that is sharp! Did you stud the bottom end?
It runs great. I get a little black smoke at start-up and on heavy acceleration, more than I think I should. But I think the injection system is original, so I'm sure it's coming due! The new GM T-stats and Dmax fan keep the temp rock solid, and I like that. Haven't pulled it hard, though. It's been getting 18-ish for mileage, and that's not bad for a fresh engine in a CCLB 4X4.
I didn't stud the bottom end. Maybe should have, but I was on a bit of a budget. And I figured that if the factory block went almost 300K without cracks, it's probably OK for the power I'm going to ask out of it. The paint is real DD. I couldn't find a copy cat, so I had to buy the real stuff. Look earlier in the thread for a pic of that over priced stuff! I do love the color though.
I had some more pics, but now that photobucket is working my 10yr old laptop had decided to be 'difficult'... I'll get it fixed and post more pics as the fun parts go on.
I didn't stud the bottom end. Maybe should have, but I was on a bit of a budget. And I figured that if the factory block went almost 300K without cracks, it's probably OK for the power I'm going to ask out of it. The paint is real DD. I couldn't find a copy cat, so I had to buy the real stuff. Look earlier in the thread for a pic of that over priced stuff! I do love the color though.
I had some more pics, but now that photobucket is working my 10yr old laptop had decided to be 'difficult'... I'll get it fixed and post more pics as the fun parts go on.
GM Guy
Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
60 series paint looks sharp for sure!
that guy you got the motors from is where i got that ECSB half ton. still havent got the title, but he works oilfields, and seemed like a nice guy, so I wont worry about it till I get back from Idaho.
did you get the paint from detroit in colby?
that guy you got the motors from is where i got that ECSB half ton. still havent got the title, but he works oilfields, and seemed like a nice guy, so I wont worry about it till I get back from Idaho.
did you get the paint from detroit in colby?
Yeah, he seemed like an honest guy. I'm sure you can get it worked out when you get back. That oil patch stuff is pretty overwhelming sometimes, but those guys usually have money to spend when the do get time off!
I got the paint through Plains Mountain Truck in Sharon. But they probably just bought it in Colby and marked it up!
I got the paint through Plains Mountain Truck in Sharon. But they probably just bought it in Colby and marked it up!
3500GMC
What T F, over
Lookin' real good sir. Glad to see the SRW tonner on the road again.
Suggestion on the lift. Get you a longer pair of 'legs' (the two black ones at bottom) to keep the weight centered BEHIND the front casters. Add a 12-14 inches maybe.
Suggestion on the lift. Get you a longer pair of 'legs' (the two black ones at bottom) to keep the weight centered BEHIND the front casters. Add a 12-14 inches maybe.