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HID's are in, need some help

dmaxfireman

dmaxfireman

'Can Do' kindof Guy
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I was a huge fan of the all-on mod with the diodes between relays. It always worked like a champ until I put my 55w hids in. Now if I go from lows/fogs to high(all-on) then back to lows/fogs the fogs go out but the switch still says they're on. All polarities are correct on ballasts. Could the diodes I used not be protecting from reverse voltage or not able to hand the higher starting amperage of the hid's???

:pissed::pissed::pissed:I always like my truck to work perfectly and I'm starting to get annoyed with it :(
 
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I cant help you. Mine came with another harness that connects to the battery and has a relay. Still works great. You can buy a harness off ebay, it helps with the startup of the HIDs.
 
My HID Fogs flickered off for a split second then came back on when I tried doing the All On Mod. So I just took out the Diodes and left it Normal.

I only drive with my Fogs on at night. IMO, they have ALOT better coverage than the Lows do.
 
Mine flicker too but I never noticed it with Silverstars. It only happens when you run the high beams and switch to low beams when the fogs were on. I havent run my high beams really but twice in the last 6 months I've been here so I might take them out and use them as spare sets for my fogs.

I would bet that there's a voltage difference between the sets. Something about the diodes that allow power to run back through for a split second. I'm not sure how this works but evidently, there are issues with running diodes and HID's.
 
yeah i learned to deal. I had a set of 35w ballasts swapped with them for a couple weeks and they worked fine with the "all-on" functions. they are bright enough though that 2 will suffice. low fog or low high
 
hid's are a arc type of lamp. as the heat up and create and "arc" across the 2 contacts inside the lamp the light becomes brighter. the time this takes will increase with age ( as the lamps get older it takes longer for the lamp to reach full brightness ). this also applies to the ballasts.

now what you guys are experiencing is that when the power to the ballast is turned on and of a few times within a small amout of time lapse the ballast goes into a "safe" mode.

when power is first applied the ballast send high voltage to the contact points in the lamp and heats these up and tries to make the "arc". if power is cut before this happens no big deal. when power is reapplied within a few seconds ( up to a minute and a half later as well ) the ballast starts over its start up process - reheating the contact points to create the "arc". this process of creating the initial "arc" produces a HUGE amount of heat. if too much heat is created there is a inturnal safety that cuts power to save the ballast. when this safety cools enough it closes the circuit and reaplies power back to the unit.

even thou there is a "all on mod" power is still cut to the low beams when changing from low to high and back to low
 
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