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help wot start im new to this diesel life

F

flow11234

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lansdale pa
So I’m new to the diesel life, I brought a 2008 Silverado 3500hd dually 6.6L Duramax turbo charged with 205k miles. So I brought it knowing it wasn’t starting, when I got the truck I started trying to do my own diagnostic lol. The check engine light was on and the scan tool obd2 codes the truck was putting out was p0113, p0676, p0677, p0678, p0102, p0675, p0533, p0166c. I change the batteries, glow plus and pumped up the purge canister. The truck cranks over very strong and long but no start. So I checked the fuse box and according to the diagram slot [20] is the fuel pump 20A. so I checked it and there is no power whether the key is on or off. So I manually powered the fuse box slot by hotwiring it directly to the battery, still nothing. So to me it should like the truck was looking for fuel. I went and brought start fluid and sprayed 3 shoots and the truck start right up with no problem, but it shut off after 2 to 3 minutes. I was told I have bad injectors what do you guys think
 
Don't use ether to start a diesel unless you are comfortable with replacing the engine. The risk isn't worth it. Hopefully you disabled the glow plugs when using it or they are done.

What is the rail pressure when cranking?

Have a Wix fuel filter on it? (Wix design commonly leaks air at the WIF sensor.) BTW 2008 doesn't have a lift pump as the CP3 does it all. Air leaks from the filter head cracked or primer gaskets are common.

How old is the fuel filter? Fuel smell like gasoline?
 
WarWagon said:
Don't use ether to start a diesel unless you are comfortable with replacing the engine. The risk isn't worth it. Hopefully you disabled the glow plugs when using it or they are done.

What is the rail pressure when cranking?

Have a Wix fuel filter on it? (Wix design commonly leaks air at the WIF sensor.) BTW 2008 doesn't have a lift pump as the CP3 does it all. Air leaks from the filter head cracked or primer gaskets are common.

How old is the fuel filter? Fuel smell like gasoline?
Click to expand...
I'm going to look at all of this tomorrow and get back to you.
How do i check the rail pressure when cranking?
As to my knowledge there is no Lift pump On the truck. I was also thinking about buying a airdog lift pump but I wasn't sure If I will buy one Will it solve the problem completely. Also once the lift pump is installed ,what do you do with the purg pump and filter? do you take it off or does it work with the airdog system.
 
1st off, you have NO idea how lucky you are. Forget the glow plugs and your engine, the LBZ/LMM both use a nice high output grid heater mounted right next to a plastic intercooler pipe and a plastic end tank on your intercooler. You could have had a SERIOUS BOOM in the front passenger side of your engine compartment had the grid heater kicked on with starting fluid present in the intake system. 2nd, there is no electric lift pump on a duramax up to 2016(unless you count the vans which used an electric primer pump that only runs for about 30 seconds when you turn the key on), they do have a gear driven pump on the end of the high pressure pump to supply fuel at factory power levels. An electric lift pump is not a bad idea, but is not required, and is by NO means a repair for ANY problem except to help hold rail pressure on bigger tunes. If you have an air leak letting air into the fuel system, a lift pump install will not stop it from losing prime when it sits, and will leave you with a nice fuel leak once the system is under pressure.

As to your codes, I don't see any that would stop it from running. P0113 is for the intake air temp sensor. P0675, P0676, P0677, and P0678 are all glow plug codes(P067 and the last digit is for the glow plug that is bad), P0102 is for low airflow into the engine(or is a common code if it has been flashed by EFILIVE with a DSP5 OS, in which case you CANNOT get rid of it), P0533 is for an A/C pressure sensor input switch, but I cannot find anything for the P0166c(should only be a P followed by 4 characters). If it was a P166c, then that explains why you didn't go boom with the starting fluid as that is an intake grid heater code.

As to your problems, you need to find out if it is air getting into the system or what is happening. You at least need to get a scanner to monitor rail pressure(actual VS desired), but one to watch missed cam and crank sensor counts would also help out. We really don't have much to go on with your code list.

AND DO NOT EVER USE STARTING FLUID IN A DIESEL WITH GLOW PLUGS AND/OR A INTAKE GRID HEATER!
You dodged a HUGE bullet. Best case scenario you blow the tips off your glow plugs, more likely scenario you blow some glow plug tips off, lodge them in a valve or lunch a piston, and now you're doing engine work, or you blow the truck up in a HUGE fireball when the intake piping blows off and something ignites under the hood with it. GM put those warning labels there for a reason, not just a precaution.
 
wow you had alot to say, that super cool and helpful one think i learned from all of the guys here and other from is to never fuk N use starter fluid again lol. i'm not sure why it isn't getting fuel. i'm going to write something you mention and apply them to the truck. is there any way to tell if diesel is came to the rails. like for instant on a gas engine there a bleeder vail on the rail it looks like a tire vail steam. you can release the cap turn on the car and if gas shoot out you knew it wasn't the pump'
p.s thanks for taking the time out to respond
 
I would assume there is no schrader valve on your truck. Gas engines run more like 30 PSI and up. Newer Diesel trucks are THOUSANDS of PSI. If you were to break into that line you could seriously injure yourself, like loose an eye or something.

Like Ferm said, with these new age diesels you REALLY need a scanner to diagnose safely and correctly. Personally I would sit in front of a computer before messing with your truck more and learn about it. It's intensely complex. When you think you know everything, sit and learn some more. Then go through a basic no start checklist and start with the basics working your way up. If you mess with it more I recommend a knowledgeable diesel guy with you.
 
I suggest you "rent" some experience from a local diesel shop. Yes, take it to a diesel shop. They have the tools and experience to get it running. One can always learn, but, start with the simpler stuff on it.

X2 to what @DieselSlug said: What could possibly go wrong messing around with high pressure diesel injection systems:

safety-alert-high-pressure-injection-injuries-1-728.jpg
 
Been a while since I have been to a diesel tech school. The last one I was at, the listed aht injector pressure on a diesel engine at 20,000 + PSI. IIRC.
Nothing to fool around with.
ven the lower pressure at 1,800 pounds is mighty dangerous.
 
1994ch said:
That is down right scary!!!!!!! I have heard stories of mechanics waving a broom handle around before daring to get close to an area suspected of a leak....to see the invisible leak cut the broom handle in half.
Click to expand...

Any time a hospital, factory, plant or anyplace that has a boiler room calls and says they have a leak, I always take a broom handle with me. There's a broom handle in the back of the truck right now. I have seen the steam leak cut a broom handle in half more than once and it's scary to think about what it would do to a human body. High pressure anything ain't nothing to be playing with.
 
wow this is some freaky shit...but in not new to under the hood i went to Lincoln tech and apex for automotive. but it is very different the a gas engine ad in the school it usually wasn't that many diesel segments the it was gasoline.from that hand picture to make me not want to do my own injectors at all. but need less to say the truck is running good could be better i'm just happy to get it started. it took almost 1hour of pumping the fuel assist pump and another set of glow plus
 
Good to hear You got it running Flow. Always nice to hear stories of success.

THEFERMANATOR said:
The LMM runs at pressures up to 180 mpa, or a bit over 26,000 psi. It's nothing to play around with.
Click to expand...
Yeah Man, a person could shoot squirrels out of trees with those pressures. LOL
Not that I`d ever try anything like that. :smuggrin:
 
I would rebuild your filter head. I've never had it take more than a few minutes to get one started. Pump the primer until fuel is present at the bleeder, close the bleeder, pump it 30 more times to force fuel into the cp3, and they normally pop right off after 10-15 seconds of cranking.
 
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