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Heater troubles...

teroma25

Recruit
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Location
Renfrew, Ontario, canada
Does anyone remember the thread at the other "place" about "no high speed blower"?

My new to me '95, had no high speed. I had remembered readin' that thread and what caused it. If you don't know, it was the main blower wire that has a connection that tends to burn. I searched the thread out before takin' the truck apart tonight to make sure that's what it was. My connector had 2 wires in it, some only have one. I cut the connector out and soldered the wires back together.

While readin' the thread someone said to clean the condenser fins to stop your a/c from freezin' up, which mine is doin'. My wire was burnt and my condenser was plugged almost solid. I've attached a few pics of the burnt wire and what was blockin' my fins. The crap (pine needles mostly) in the pic is maybe half of what I pulled out. There was a lot of it, and almost 1" thick too.

If you wanna change your resistor:
Remove glove box
Remove 2 screws that hold relay bracket
Resistor is behind that bracket and attached with 2 screws

If you wanna remove the blower:
Remove glove box
Remove computer..or at least pull it out of the way
Remove plate that holds computer..2 screws on top, 2 on side
Remove 2 wires from blower
Remove blower cover
Remove screws from blower, slight turn to the right and pull it out

Once the blower is out, if you have small hands you can just barely get them inside to try and clean the fins. I duct taped a piece of 3/4" heater hose to the shop vac and carefully stuck it in to suck the loose crap out. I used the heater hose cuz it's flexible to move around in there and soft on the fins.

Once all back together I test drove for an hour, blower stayed on high and a/c never froze up. :smile5:
 

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Holy cow! That's a bunch of junk. My evaporator core was full of mud. I got some out, but am sure it is still full. Is there a good way to get to it?

I'm thinking the only way is to tear the whole dash out
 
So what prob do i have then,I only got high speed, nothing else. i replaced the dash 4 speed control unit, but only high speed is working. this is on the 95[see sig]
 
So what prob do i have then,I only got high speed, nothing else. i replaced the dash 4 speed control unit, but only high speed is working. this is on the 95[see sig]

Sounds like a new resistor might fix you up. I know the control units had their problems but if you already replaced it.....

$20 here for a resistor and very easy to change.
Resistor: ACDelco# 15-8788
GM#15039098

on edit: While your in there, check that wire for burnin'!
 
Sounds like a new resistor might fix you up. I know the control units had their problems but if you already replaced it.....

$20 here for a resistor and very easy to change.
Resistor: ACDelco# 15-8788
GM#15039098

on edit: While your in there, check that wire for burnin'!
thanks teroma,i will look into it.
 
Sounds like a new resistor might fix you up. I know the control units had their problems but if you already replaced it.....

$20 here for a resistor and very easy to change.
Resistor: ACDelco# 15-8788
GM#15039098

on edit: While your in there, check that wire for burnin'!

High only is usually a telltale sign on a resistor in about any vehicle. With the fan on high, the current flows free and isn't restricted at all.
 
how bout if the heater is stuck on defrost and when you switch the knob to feet or the middle vents it just keeps blowing out of the defrost vents?
 
how bout if the heater is stuck on defrost and when you switch the knob to feet or the middle vents it just keeps blowing out of the defrost vents?


That would tend to make me think it was the little motor that switches the doors opened and closed. See if you can find the motor - it's about the size of a PMD and when activated, you should be able to hear it. There will probably be several of them on in your dash, so make sure you get to the right one. Once you find it, you should be able to see if it's getting power to it. Maybe someone else can give you a tip on the technical side of how to check it, like amp load when activated.

If it's not the motor, then about the only other thing it could be would be the dash unit, assuming no fuses are burned. Would there be a separate fuse on this function, anyone?
 
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