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Have 6.5 turbo diesel engine want to replace it

Burning oil said:
I use a combo of regular wrenches and a gear wrench. TO ME he seems to be to retarded
and needs to advance alittle. Turning to pass side will advance. Whole procedure should take about 10 minutes + set up/clean up time.
Click to expand...

That is the opposite in DS4 trucks, the base timing is advnaced by turning towards the driver side. Is the DB2 backwards in that respect?
 
buddy said:
That is the opposite in DS4 trucks, the base timing is advnaced by turning towards the driver side. Is the DB2 backwards in that respect?
Click to expand...

Well $hit I hope Im telling the correct info, its been over a year since I did mine and could swear it was advanced by turning ip toward pass side. I will go look at my truck and get back in a few minutes.
 
well finally got the IP moved its a just a hair on the passenger side of the timing tick mark. went to start up the truck and didnt really wanna start had to hit the gas pedal a lil bit to get it fired up, its smoked more than usual and truck was shaking. Crows foot didnt work went and got a gear wrench only moved the bolt one click at a time took forever. thanks for all the help gentelmen
 
Timing

Cam & crank spins clock-wise looking at it fron the front. IP is gear to gear spinning it counter-clockwise. To advance you go against the rotation of the pump, so turning the IP to the 'right' or to the driver's side (clockwise from the front) will advance timing.

Same fundamentals apply for DIZZYS... ha ha.
 
And for the condition of the engine. Sir I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if this thing has over 400k like I saw in your video. You better start gathering rebuild parts.

Check compression before going any further. I've been down the path you are now on.

On your timing question, Yes.
 
i moved it a lil bit past where it was before i touched it mayb a lil bit between 1/16 and 2/16 of a inch fired up a lil bit easier, i do have some blow by, trying to get ahold of my friend to see if he has time to come by and do a compression test.
 
It sounds like you retarded the timing alright. And maybe glows and cold advance isnt working.

More likely than clogged injector could be pissing injectors that dont atmoize the fuel and leak at low pressure.
 
gcxcountrystar1 said:
well finally got the IP moved its a just a hair on the passenger side of the timing tick mark. went to start up the truck and didnt really wanna start had to hit the gas pedal a lil bit to get it fired up, its smoked more than usual and truck was shaking. Crows foot didnt work went and got a gear wrench only moved the bolt one click at a time took forever. thanks for all the help gentelmen
Click to expand...

You guys are fast!
I did check and as you already now know its opposite of what I said. For 6.2/6.5 diesels, advance is towards the driver side; for 6.9, 7.3 diesels fords, advance is toward the passenger side.
So, you might try alittle more than you started with, but not much as it was already advanced to begin with.
 
i was wondering how hard it is to had engine cooler lines from radiator to engine got the wrong radiator i needed the one that didnt have engine cooler lines. :(
 
I have a external transmission cooler, my radiator that I took out of the truck didn't have engine cooler lines, and the new radiator I got has the fittings for engine cooler lines. I was wondering what needs to be done to add the engine cooler
 
"when I get my license back....."

Oh boy, that tells me everything I need to know in just 6 words.
 
Big T, what did you mean by your last post, the only reason i got my liscense taken away was because of medical conditions i recieved while i was in Iraq.
 
Well, you could either plug the ports for the oil cooler, or plumb your tranny line to it for more cooling. Or engine cooler. I have cut tranny lines for a 4L60E transmission and plumbed an external cooler in series. I suppose you could do the same with engine oil if you wanted more engine cooling rather than tranny, but I have found the tranny can get pretty hot under load and might just double up on cooling for that.
 
Why not yank the motor out and buy a military surplus 6.2 and build a hybrid 6.2/6.5 turbo??? It would most likely be the cheapest route.
 
big block 88 said:
Why not yank the motor out and buy a military surplus 6.2 and build a hybrid 6.2/6.5 turbo??? It would most likely be the cheapest route.
Click to expand...

X2 on this 6.2 repower. But is this truck really in good enough shape to spend this kind of cash on it?

Your video clearly shows the engine is missing. If you rev it up or drive it a bit does the white smoke and shake go away? Is there a puff out of the oil fill tube for 1 cylinder or a steady 8 puff stream? Mine will miss at first startup but will clear up quickly with RPM and or load and RPM.

When the engine is cold the cold advance switch on the thermostat crossover closes. (It open at 140 degrees.) This moves the solenoid on the IP that opens the throttle. It also changes the advance via a second wire to the IP. When you turn the key on you need to floor the throttle and release it to allow the solenoid to engage the high idle: do this during the wait to start glow plug light before starting the engine. You need 650 hot idle and 750 cold as I recall. Do not adjust the hot idle without knowing how to adjust the TPS.

Quick and dirty test:
Cold truck turn on the ignition do not start. Check voltage to ground at both the pink wire and the other wire going to the top of the IP. We don't care about the pink shut off solenoid wire really, because your engine runs, but it better have 12V or your meter is not working. The other wire should have 12v. The solenoid should also have 12v. Manually open the throttle and watch the screw fall down and lock in. If this does not have 12v check the switch. Probe the harness and see if it has 12v. Short the harness pins and check. Note do not ground the harness as you will pop a fuse labeled gauge.

So a failed cold advance switch will cause the engine to run bad when cold. Bad glow plugs will be over come as the engine gets some RPM and the non-firing cylinders start working from heat.

You are missing the fan shroud. Quickest way to ruin a 6.5 is get it hot, as in anything over 210. 210 should be a red line. You need the fan shroud even in 32 degree weather towing. I suspect your 6.5 got hot and if the oil filler is puffing I have a tear down thread on that scuffed and burned through piston...

The IP needs to be timed by ear. The IP line is a starting point. You may have a stretched timing chain.
White smoke is too retarded. Black smoke is too advanced. Black smoke is ok when the cold advance is on. Black smoke is not rolling the coal...
 
im not missing the fan shroud took it off the day i made the video was trying to find out where my radiator was leaking from. after the truck warms up and i have driven it the smoking and shaking stops. i see the pink wire and there are two green wires going to the top of the IP
 
Good news that the smoke and shake stops. :hihi:

Only three wires to mess with and the green wires are joined and go to the cold start switch. So check the cold advance out.

Next, you need to check the glow plugs out. Even with the best glow plugs working 100% you can still get white smoke on start up and a miss. Myself I am tracking down hard starting and white smoke after start up. I am down to injectors with 30K on them or the Injection Pump leaking air at the throttle shaft seals or advance piston.

Check the two big wires on the glow plug controller, back driver's side of engine, by taking them apart and cleaning them. Pull the battery first as one connection is live 100% of the time.

Have a friend cycle the glow plugs and check for 9-11v at each terminal. Good luck with the passenger side. Resistance test of each glow plug will catch any burned out ones - but may not show you weak ones. Replace glow plugs with duraterms when you change injectors.

You could still have low compression - how bad is the blow by on the engine?
 
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