And what did I say a few posts back about how it would suck if all of this work and head banging over "soft" pedal feel and the clutch not releasing and all that time time spent bleeding and rebleeding the system completely and new line and cylinders replacement and rebleeding yet again and everything came back to wear in the pedal assembly preventing full actuation of the MC and thus keeping the SC from completely moving the throw out bearing fork?IT'S ALIVE! HALLELUJAH! This whole friggin time the problem was something to do with the pedal being worn out and not pushing the master far enough.
I just picked up what looks like a very clean optimizer take- out, so if you've got room for another engine project of mine in the future you can tack it on thenI'm glad it worked out for you... I'll send ya a bill later
Let this be a lesson to all, never be in such a hurry and start throwing parts/money at something, just think about the whole picture...
Get a left hand threaded nut. Fastenal or anywhere should be able to get them. Ebay? Amazon?Yes if a simple cable/ z bar swap was possible with minimal mods, I'd do so in a heartbeat. I don't like the several more moving parts in the external slave system as more parts means more can go wrong, but being able to replace the slave without pulling the trans is certainly nice.
I'll take some videos and upload, but there really isn't much discernible play in the pedal. Remember I did the clutch in April of 2020, and it shifted wonderfully after that. Whatever is going on with the pedal came out of nowhere. And it seems that even the slightest play in the pedal can have a massive effect on the slave travel, making this a very hard problem to isolate.
Here's my custom hardware store master pushrod. 5/16" turnbuckle with grade 8 5/16" master end ground down to the neighborhood of 1/4" with grade 8 locknut
View attachment 70077
As mentioned earlier the plastic bushing for the rod to pedal fits into the eyelet pretty much perfectly
View attachment 70078
However with this end being left hand thread for the turnbuckle, I couldn't add a locknut, hence the duct tape on the prototype in the first image
When I installed the prototype, the pedal end fit but didn't click into place fully. The stock master is flat on both sides, not rounded like the eye bolt, so grinding flat will be necessary for a precise, worry- free fit
The stock master rod is 7 7/8" long, from master end to the center of the eyehole. I made my prototype 1 1/4" longer to start, so 9 1/8". This worked but pushed the pedal WAY up and forwards towards the seat. So with the rod already in place, I backed the rod on the pedal side of the turnbuckle all the way down snug to the eyelet. Just judging from the picture, this was at least half to 3/4 of an inch taken out of the rod, if not a full inch. I'll pull tomorrow and get a precise measurement.
What I think this will show is that even the slightest amount of free play in the pedal can have massive effects downstream.
What I might do is find the exact amount of length needed for my application and then modify another rod permanently for this new length. My hardware store turnbuckle isn't a complete hack job, but it wasn't designed for this application, and I don't know how the metal will hold up to regular long term use
here's a stock rod that I cut at the transition from 1/4" to 3/8" thickness. I bought two ~3/4" long fine thread couplers and cut 1/4" fine threads into the rod, thinking the two couplers would give me enough extra to push the master. But after having to back my prototype down so much I'm thinking I may need only 1/2" of additional travel to get things back into spec
(It's only mocked up on the tape measure, not welded/ ready for install)
View attachment 70079
I am pretty sure they are.I wonder if LH threaded nuts is standardized, like NC and NF threads or like metrics ?