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Got my ATT today

ak diesel driver

ak diesel driver

6.5 driver
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Location
alaska
got my ATT today. I won't be putting it on right away as I'm busy, plus I need to do some maintainence on my truck. But my plans if I can swing it is to get a dyno baseline before I install it as well as some times up a steep hill with a trailer and weight and also some 0-60 times. Been thinking I'd like to set up a quick spool valve to be vacuum controlled with a tune.
 

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you have my interest. :)

sounds like a solid plan. with a full pillar of guages you allready have, I see more in cab videos in your future!

good luck!
 
You all will have to be patient as I don't do hardly anything quickly. Just check out my house thread for example
 
I strongly recommend that you cut and weld the intake so that you get the straightest shot possible from the turbo to the intake. Aim for achieving a straight, short coupling like the stock set-up. Someone has posted photos of this mod here.

The silicone intake tubes stretch and leak with time and you lose boost. IMO this is the weakest link in the ATT kit. I've run the ATT for 50K miles and leaks in this area is the only problem. Unfortunately my intake was cut by the PO. However, I have my eye on the intake from the wrecked '95.
 
Big T said:
I strongly recommend that you cut and weld the intake so that you get the straightest shot possible from the turbo to the intake. Aim for achieving a straight, short coupling like the stock set-up. Someone has posted photos of this mod here.

The silicone intake tubes stretch and leak with time and you lose boost. IMO this is the weakest link in the ATT kit. I've run the ATT for 50K miles and leaks in this area is the only problem. Unfortunately my intake was cut by the PO. However, I have my eye on the intake from the wrecked '95.
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:hihi: Where is your sense of adventure? Do you know how high everyone jumps when you blow a boost hose off a HX40II at 24 PSI during a club dyno day esp on a 6.5?
 
Big T said:
I strongly recommend that you cut and weld the intake so that you get the straightest shot possible from the turbo to the intake. Aim for achieving a straight, short coupling like the stock set-up. Someone has posted photos of this mod here.

The silicone intake tubes stretch and leak with time and you lose boost. IMO this is the weakest link in the ATT kit. I've run the ATT for 50K miles and leaks in this area is the only problem. Unfortunately my intake was cut by the PO. However, I have my eye on the intake from the wrecked '95.
Click to expand...
That's been the experience with my Peninsular set up (three Silicone junctures). The 3" joint is the culprit. Same with 635 when he ran it. I'm running the OEM upper now or I'd have one for you to modify.

WarWagon said:
:hihi: Where is your sense of adventure? Do you know how high everyone jumps when you blow a boost hose off a HX40II at 24 PSI during a club dyno day esp on a 6.5?
Click to expand...
I was wearing a seat belt, thankfully, when mine went at 104mph! The cleaners will tell you about 'insta-dye' shorts!

AK. Which truck gets the ATT; K2500 or K3500? Getting before and after numbers with the new set up is what I would like to have done with my set up. Keeping an eye on EGTs, MPGs, Boost numbers at 10mph increments as well as acceleration times. 0-60, 50-70, 60-chicken point. I find the TCC lock up in 4th at 50 makes for a deadspot for accelerating out of with an auto tranny.
 
going on the one in my avatar. down to 2 running trucks my 96 DD and my 94 Plowtruck. Sold the engines out of the others and is how I came up with the coin for the ATT.
 
great white said:
Ya gotta chuck it up in the lathe and spin a bead surface on it to get it to hold at higher boost.

Just be careful ya don't go too thin on the casting.....;)
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Great Idea and thanks. Maybe a knurled texture like a gun stock or OEM starter bolts? That would keep the amount of material removed to a minimum.

Its for certain that the powder coating doesn't help much either. "A funny thing happened on the way to the [blow off]" though. It didn't slip off the Peninsular housing, which is not "lipped' but smooth, rather, the Cummins elbow I use which does have an 1/8" (guesstimated) lip. See left hand/back side of the intake.
photo (4).jpg

The shorter Light Blue hose is the one that gives way. Didn't have any issues with the longer, black one.
photo (3).jpg

Both times I was in 3rd, pulling a 2-3% grade trying to see what RPMs and EGTs would be getting up to 95mph under load. Successful first runs but always blew off the light blue hose on the 2nd.... didn't happened to me at lesser speeds/loads. 635 blew off his off on a 6% grade, 5000lbs empty trailer, old silicone hose and POP...vehicles behind disappeared in sudden cloud of black smoke. HAHAHAHAHAHA

You can kinda see here where the short hose doesn't leave room for expansion/swelling to be contained by the band clamp.
IMG_1754.jpg
I always clean the silicone and metal surfaces with good, mild, degreaser (Dawn) before reassembly to remove the oil and ensure a tight, clean fit.

I'd say I'm off topic, as usual, but if you're going to run higher boosts, regardless of turbo, you gotta take precautions to ensure the system stays together...how's that?:o
 
Your t clamp looks fairly wide. Does it sit down in the land on the cummins elbow between the bead and the edge?

If it fits but tightly, you are likely not getting enough "grip" with the sleeve.

You sshould be able to sit the clamp in the land area and have it loose. This allows it to squeeze the sleeve down behind the bead and capture it.

Too smooth a surface is also not good for obvious reasons.

When I turned my castings down i left the coarse machining marks on the sealing surfaces and my beads are sharp (well, sharper) on the "pull side" (think: to take the sleeve off) than it is on the "push it on side" (think: to install).

Now, i'm back down to maxing boost at 13-14 psi so popping sleeves under pressure is no longer a problem for me. I occationally play around with 14-16, but i don't get a good trade off there...
 
The blue silicone is what I have problems with. It stretches with heat cycles and then starts blowing off no matter how clean you get it or how tight you clamp it. At the moment I believe mine is leaking as I've lost 3 psi boost.
 
Big T said:
The blue silicone is what I have problems with. It stretches with heat cycles and then starts blowing off no matter how clean you get it or how tight you clamp it. At the moment I believe mine is leaking as I've lost 3 psi boost.
Click to expand...

It's more about the construction of the sleeve.

If it's just a silicone with minimal fiber reinforcement, sooner or later it's gonna pop.

The sleeves I use are more fabric than "rubber".

Pushing them on is like trying to shove a steel sleeve on sometimes.
 
Hair spray. No joke. That's a very common trick with the DMax CAC boots. Nice clean and dry hose joint sprayed with your (wife's) favorite brand of hairspray liberally all around the hose inside, assemble, clamp, enjoy a seriously blowoff resistant boot.
 
BT is right about the hair spray, it really will keep even the all silicone ones from moving and it doesn't leave any film if you remove them like glue will..... I like the mostly cloth ones the big trucks use...
 
(Disclaimer: not 'knocking' anybody, just offering actual experience based on what I walked into.) Am reverse engineering what the mechanic did in terms of hoses on the ATT install as he could not get the two 45*'s hoses to fit and went with a radiator hose for a (sort-of) straight-line. I have since pulled the radiator hose and got the 45*'s to work after trimming (IIRC) 1" off of one of them. Now the installation looks pretty much normal with minimal silicon exposed to the pressure.

For the unit's installation, the mechanic showed me where he had to create a 'crows foot' wrench to install one of the bolts (do not remember which one, sorry).
 
Are you guys buying cheap hoses off ebay? I buy all my hoses from this place( http://www.turbohoses.com) haven't had a problem in 5 years running my intercooler. I take that back. A year or so ago I blew the hose off the ATT pulling the toy hauler up a 10% grade. BUT, what I found out was I didn't have enough flex when the engine lifted on hard pulls. I solved that problem and haven't had issues since. They are made in USA also here in CA about an hour from my house.
 
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