My thoughts exactly, mine are still the factory bearings from 1985, and cold oil pressure with 15/40 is up to 80psi with the stock oil pump,one thing most people probably dont do is use a heavy duty oil pump shaft mine is a milodon for an olds motor it is thick and round and looks like a pencil only at the ends,it was a little longer but there was still room left, not sure if I still have the part number,arp should also make the same one.I simply went to a machine/speed shop and matched one.
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getting a mill take out 6.2
- Thread starter chevyCowboy
- Start date
SmithvilleD
Active Member
Interesting. Wish I'd thought of that. Makes sense there might be another GM app driveshaft out there that could be made to work.
I set my main/rod oil tolerances very carefully right down the center of factory spec. And went w/ the pre-piston oil squirter oil pump. My idea was reasonable oil pressure, less parasitic hp loss to drive the later, greater flow oil pump.
Didn't really know if the stock pump drive shaft would be potentially overstressed w/ the bigger pump or not.
And oil pressure is OK. On a recent trip in -10 F temps, my larger than stock 48 plate oil cooler made it that much harder (along w/ almost 11 qt oil capacity), to maintain oil temps as warm as they should be. So I did the common cardboard air blocker over the grill deal to limit airflow & get oil temps back where they should be.
As I played w/ different amounts of airflow blockage btwn interstate rest stops, my first try, had too much airflow blockage. Coolant temps were fine, but oil temp was headed higher than I'd like. Didn't get too hot, but higher than ideal & oil pressure responded as one would expect since viscosity is pretty temp related.
Still would maintain 40 psi at highway speeds, which I suppose is enough. But suspect the later, bigger pump would have maintained a bit more pressure, which is reassuring. I'm more interested in longevity than ultimate hp.
I set my main/rod oil tolerances very carefully right down the center of factory spec. And went w/ the pre-piston oil squirter oil pump. My idea was reasonable oil pressure, less parasitic hp loss to drive the later, greater flow oil pump.
Didn't really know if the stock pump drive shaft would be potentially overstressed w/ the bigger pump or not.
And oil pressure is OK. On a recent trip in -10 F temps, my larger than stock 48 plate oil cooler made it that much harder (along w/ almost 11 qt oil capacity), to maintain oil temps as warm as they should be. So I did the common cardboard air blocker over the grill deal to limit airflow & get oil temps back where they should be.
As I played w/ different amounts of airflow blockage btwn interstate rest stops, my first try, had too much airflow blockage. Coolant temps were fine, but oil temp was headed higher than I'd like. Didn't get too hot, but higher than ideal & oil pressure responded as one would expect since viscosity is pretty temp related.
Still would maintain 40 psi at highway speeds, which I suppose is enough. But suspect the later, bigger pump would have maintained a bit more pressure, which is reassuring. I'm more interested in longevity than ultimate hp.
I have used these shafts in fords and a olds 455,seen a few fords twist of factory ones,the ends are all the same just different lengths, dont know if the 6.2, 6.5 even needs the high volume pump,seen some on ebay with a spacer so they could fit bigger gears,I wouldn't go bigger than the latest factory one for my self,priced one at napa they are pretty expensive.
Last edited:
Veg_Out
Walking J Designs
I think you are doing a good job keeping patient. It's tough having your rig down. But a good time to do some preventative.
Even if you don't buy them from me, a good thing to do while apart is replace all the fuel lines under the intake manifold, protect the new ones and do the FTB mod while in there.
Even if you don't buy them from me, a good thing to do while apart is replace all the fuel lines under the intake manifold, protect the new ones and do the FTB mod while in there.
chevyCowboy
I might be crazy but i ain't dumb
well i got the price delivered to my work $1175 not to bad i guess. still not sure on all this. every time i think i have decided what i want to do i sencond guess my self. i just keep thinking that i want to go through and put all new berings and rings in while iv got it out. i guess i just have a problem with putting something that is half worn out in my truck. but the rebuild kits are pretty high
SmithvilleD
Active Member
Trust me, that second-guessing yourself doesn't have to be a bad thing. At the end of the day, what often kills a home rebuilt engine is some detail that got overlooked.
Over time, each engine I build gets more & more hand written documentation/notes. And I'll often let it set completed (as far as I know) on the stand for a week, to let those 2nd guess type thoughts run thru my head.
I've started doing this, because the same 2nd guess thoughts are prolly gonna roll thru your head anyway. And if it happens you remember a detail that matters, you can fix it easier on the stand, before any potential dmg happens.
Guys that build engines everyday don't need to do this, because time/experience has developed the checklist we need written down, is pretty much imprinted on their brain. Us hobbyists don't have that advantage.
I think the risk/reward potential makes that engine a pretty good bet (which is somewhat, what they all are). Even the ones w/ a warranty sometimes fail.
If you pull it down & check things out, & reassemble it carefully/correctly, it should be good. Don't presume the main/rod bearings will need replaced. They may be fine. Simply gotta check, to know.
Whenever you get it there, let me know. Omaha's not too big a trip & I'd be happy to help a day or two. I've got the manuals & OD micrometers, & a dial indicator. Would be good if you could borrow inside mic's - maybe somebody at your work has them.
I like to torque the bearings/caps in, the measure bearing ID, crank OD, & calculate oil clearnance. As I don't use micrometers daily, it takes a while to get familiar again so you consistently get the same measurement = precision. As a second check, I always verify what the clearance measurements calc'd out to be, w/ plastigage.
Over time, each engine I build gets more & more hand written documentation/notes. And I'll often let it set completed (as far as I know) on the stand for a week, to let those 2nd guess type thoughts run thru my head.
I've started doing this, because the same 2nd guess thoughts are prolly gonna roll thru your head anyway. And if it happens you remember a detail that matters, you can fix it easier on the stand, before any potential dmg happens.
Guys that build engines everyday don't need to do this, because time/experience has developed the checklist we need written down, is pretty much imprinted on their brain. Us hobbyists don't have that advantage.
I think the risk/reward potential makes that engine a pretty good bet (which is somewhat, what they all are). Even the ones w/ a warranty sometimes fail.
If you pull it down & check things out, & reassemble it carefully/correctly, it should be good. Don't presume the main/rod bearings will need replaced. They may be fine. Simply gotta check, to know.
Whenever you get it there, let me know. Omaha's not too big a trip & I'd be happy to help a day or two. I've got the manuals & OD micrometers, & a dial indicator. Would be good if you could borrow inside mic's - maybe somebody at your work has them.
I like to torque the bearings/caps in, the measure bearing ID, crank OD, & calculate oil clearnance. As I don't use micrometers daily, it takes a while to get familiar again so you consistently get the same measurement = precision. As a second check, I always verify what the clearance measurements calc'd out to be, w/ plastigage.