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fuel pressure gauge sender confusion

Glad to find a fellow in arms! To me running wvo is more about what u guys know about tinkering with the engine, like feeding the beast, I have a 6.2 with no turbo but I feel a lot of FTB would apply to increasing the wvo flow to the IP! I gotta read about that and try to get a handle on it. OK ur gonna laugh @ me about my electric injection line heaters but they cost a lot off ebay or other internet sources plus frieght u know so I made my own. I bought a 12v plug in the cigarete lighter travel mug from Big Lots clearance dept. store and broke it open and took the resistance wires out, they r coated with ceramic insulation and cut them 30 inches long like in the ads and bought a roll of silicone tape from Fastenol and installed them on the Mercedes, it has 4 lines so i got about 5-6 inches on each line and covered them with silicone tape, ran one end to ground to the engine and the other to the a fuse that comes on when u turn the switch on. U can look on the net and see how to install the ones they sell its very easy and they show good pics. Only used half the silicone tape so my total expense was $4.99 for heated travel coffee mug and $9.00 for silicone tape that I have half left of! I am disabled and live on a very tight budget so have to get creative all the time, thats why I LUV THIS FORUM!!!!!!
 
Also I wonder if u need the injection line heaters after the engine warms up? There is a lot of heat to a running engine and a blend just dont need that much heat in my opinion since its already as thin as very cold diesel or even thinner with a little heat. I intend to mount my spin on filter on the fender well where it will catch a little heat from the exhaust, the Mercedes fuel tank will get super warm from the muffler being up in a recess inside the rear fender. Dont put a cooler on the gas tank which is the bottom of the trunk and go on a trip, u will have melted ice and warm sodas! The injection heater I have uses 8 amps according to the ads where they sell them so on the 8 cylinder GMC 6.2 it would use 16 amps, I think thats not a whole lot but it is a lot to constantly draw on ur chargeing system. The heaters do help I can tell the difference on start up but the Mercedes has a manual gorilla knob glow plug heating system and u can glow it forever and it wont hurt the glow plugs because they r the old type, course u pay the price since they dont get nearly as hot as the modern type. Gotta plug her in every nite even on diesel if its cool. Anyway with the 6.2 I only get a few seconds glow time and u need about 1.5 to 2 minutes b4 start up to get the heaters and lines up to temp b4 starting the engine so really I figure the glow plugs should be on the manual glow circuit described n this forum since I need the switch on 4 a couple minutes b4 starting, believe me u dont want a manual switch on the heaters cause u will 4get and leave it on and cook the fuel and really mess up ur injectors! Plus u could get more glow out of a manual system since wvo blends r harder to start. 4 now tho I am going to try the factory glow plug heating circuit. I wonder if there is a fuse that I can hook the injection line heaters to that comes on with the key turned to accesory and also runs them when the engine is running? Perhaps the radio but remember it has to be able to handle the draw of the resistance heaters. Can anyone help me with this? I could figure it out but by asking I not only get a informed answer from yall but yall might have a better idea....timer? engine temp sensor? Remember its gotta b simple and cheap er cost effective cause all my money goes to the horses!!!! Cowboy remember! LOL Thanks again folks!
 
Hate 2 ask but do u mean a inline fuse when u say relay? Since u r n alaska and have all that diesel experience could u give me some info on starting ur 6.5? Lets say describe 50 degree start, 40 degree start, 30 degree start please. I just got my my 6.2 and it starts amazingly easy but I am in NC and morning temps are 70 to high 80 and soon will b even higher! I want to b able to compare somewhat as the fall approaches and have ur temp sound and number glow cycles and say cranking seconds before ignition. My 6.2 is quick, I do mean quick to start on diesel like rump and maybe half another rump and she is gone! It starts faster than my Mustang! As I increase the wvo in the blend I will learn how it sounds and feels. I have my fuel pressure gauge and this weekend I intend to install it and the injection AKA coffee cup resisitance heaters on the lines and then I want to watch the fuel pressure for a while to analyze it and then change oil and change the fuel filter and watch the fuel pressure on diesel with a clean filter to get a feel for it and then put in the extra spin on fuel filter and the pre LP filter and again watch it a while and FINALLY start a gradual introduction of my wvo blend. I did it this way with the Mercedes and was able to switch a little @ a time and easily identify installation problems by how she ran and since I only made one change @ a time it was easy to find and fix the problems and believe me there were problems! LOL What a time with air leaks and trapped air! Touch these old lines and parts that have gaskets etc that r dried out and u gonna cause issues. What about my filter system I really want 2 use a 2 micron spin on filter, a really big one to help with flow. Do u think my electric lift pump can push thru it and still get the fuel pressure the IP needs? Thanks a bunch 4 ur input, my truck has 294000 miles on it, any idea how I can tell if the engine has that many miles on it? Its scary how good it runs and drives, I can tell the IP has been replaced or rebuilt and the injection lines have been messed with so I assume it has had the injectors changed. I got it from a guy who got it from another guy and neither one drove it any cause it had a unidentifyable antifreeze leak and they both figured blown head gaskets or cracked head or block etc and they couldnt fix it so sold it. I bought it figuring I could maybe fix and find the leak and even if it ran a while I could experiment with wvo. It barely sipped antifreeze but it did sip some! LOL Gave up finding the leak and hooked the gooseneck horse trailer with living quarters with 3 horses in it and headed to the foothills of NC with it in drive not overdrive @ 3000 rpms and after 50 miles I found the leak! Never been so happy to stop and see coolant streaming frum under the front bumper, I blew the hole big enough to find allright. Got it home and the radiator is now replaced with a nice new one and she dont sip coolant anymore so hopefully I have a very good truck. Can u start ur 6.5 @ say 20 degrees without plugging it in? Wow I talk a lot, sorry and thanks again 4 ur help. If I can get this engine to work it will help me a lot with my limited income and getiing to go camping with the horses on weekend trailrides, my old 454 1985 dually got 7mpg and I couldnt go anywhere.
 
a relay is not an inline fuse. it's usually a little black box with a set of contacts in it. the power source(radio if you choose) only activates the contacts. Then you can have as much power as the relay/wiring is rated for. The most common aftermarket relay will handle about 30 amps and they're cheap. You'll need to run fused power from your batts to the relay and then to whatever your powering up. As far as starting I don't bother plugging in till around 20*. If you read my signature at the bottom I have changed from 1 600watt block heater to 2 1000watt block heaters. At -30* I plug it in for at least an hour and it will fire up. If I plug it in for several hours the temp guage will register some temp.
 
Sorry missed the heat n ur signature. Wow u got a lot of heat. I think the tech squints n the wvo forums have really messed up, they say cold fuel hitting a hot IP or vice versa causes thermal shock and the IP shears the shaft, looking @ all that heat u r putting n2 ur engine and I know its some cold diesel hitting the IP u should have all kinds of busted IPs but apparently not. I just gotta figure them guys r ruining the IP with low pressure or no pressure from the LP. Now I am a little confused, I get a relay and wire it to the injection line heaters and I also wire it to the batteries with a fuse in line and heres the confusing part... do I wire it to the radio fuse to pull the contact n??? This way I turn the switch to accessory for 2 minutes to heat the injection lines and then turn the switch on and the glow plugs heat and the injection line heaters r still on as long as the ignition switch is on???? This would be perfect for me! Also I got the fittings for the pressure gauge 2day, I have 2 screw the sender n2the needle valve, somewhere on here I saw where u dont use white teflon tape on diesel fuel fittings but instead I think they said RTV???? My truck has a block heater, will it hurt to plug it up all nite to start the next morning? It seldom gets cold enough to freeze water in the horse water troughs n the winter here, it sure would be nice if I did not need to plug the truck in!
 
might be the difference in the pumps were using. Your pump is a db2 mine is a ds4 electronic. never heard of anyone having problems with a db2 up here but then were not trying to run wvo either. sounds like you got the right idea on the relay now.
 
How bout what 2 use on the fuel pressure sender threads? No the wvo guys shear the shafts on diesel too, when they switch from hot wvo 2 diesel to purge the wvo 4 shutdown and when they start on diesel but have heaters like urs on the oil pan, dipstick and block heaters. Sometimes I wonder if those fellows even own a diesel. :-) People on horse forums pretend 2 own horses n show and ride and sometimes they slip up and give their fake life away if u know horses u can spot some of them. I aint no fake LOL just plain dont know diesels but am willing to get dirty and learn. Boy do them diesels get u filthy workin on them! LOL U gotta shed some skin 2 get ur hands clean!
 
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