• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Fuel line & walbro upgrade...

closetredneck

New Member
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Location
United States
I started a thread over at the other "place" looking for some advice on issues I was having with my new to me 1996 K1500 reg cab. Short story, after running for about 30 mins, the truck would lose power, run rough, and wouldn't go over about 25 mph. Seemed fuel starved. It died on me once, was hard to start, but started again after 5 mins or so. Did this every time I took it out, though it never stalled again. Got it home and parked it and checked the tank. I did notice a slight "whoosh" sound when I removed the (new) diesel fuel cap and could hear the tank expand. Fuel filter was recently changed and relatively clean, but a little orange. The next morning I checked the LP operation - could hear the pump kick on at key on and after a cold start I had fuel at the water drain valve at idle. Took it out for a ride and same thing happened. When I got home was idling rough and surging. Checked fuel at water drain and nothing - engine promptly died. Had to bleed and prime, truck started again but died within ten seconds. Bleed again, prime again, spurt fuel all over FFM and down in valley. Go to crank, nothing. Either the excessive cranking or the fuel mess took out my weak and dying starter. Replaced starter (went with a powermaster hi-torque gear reduction model), now the engine fires up like a champ. Back to the fuel problem. Suspecting plugged tank sock or weak lift pump or both. Sending unit and lift pump were both replaced in late 2011 with aftermarket parts. Blow air into line from lift pump inlet back into tank. Took it for a ride and ran a lot better, but still low power at highway speeds / WOT.

After doing a lot of research on here and the "place", decide to drop the tank and do a "4thesporty" type feed the beast mod - remove sock, install pre-pump filter, Walbro FRC-10, delete FFM & replace with another spin on, and run all new braided stainless line to IP. I got in touch with Leroy and ordered up the pre filter kit, Walbro, and metrum rod, along with a new bumper mount PMD kit (PMD is currently on a sink on DS fender), boost fitting, and S&B air box. Installed gauges while I was waiting for fuel line parts - Boost, EGT, & fuel pres. Also replaced the rusted out transmission cross member and trans mount. Dropped the tank and found a well defined rust line about 1/2 down and running fingers around sending unit opening and top of tank felt a bit like sandpaper and left orange slime on my fingertips. Plus, looked like coating was flaking off walls. Decided to replace tank, went with Spectra premium - $105 shipped from Amazon.

While waiting for parts, I installed DE exhaust with no muffler (Sorry Leroy - had already ordered before I found you!), heath x-over pipe, new CDR valve, I modified the sending unit with the metrum rod - that was cool - and re-installed the sending unit. Also replaced all but one battery cable & the starter cable and replaced the broken trans dipstick tube. While the tank was out, did some rust cleanup & painting on the frame crossmembers where the tank goes. Also, had to figure out where to put all this new stuff on my reg cab long bed 4x4. Not much room under the cab with the xfer case, torsion bars, xmembers, etc. Felt my only options were pass side frame rail near exhaust or outside of DS frame rail under cab. Decided, reluctantly, to go on outside DS frame rail - not my favorite because you can see it and the thought of someone f'ing with it is a concern. Also had to clear the p-brake cable and brackets, so fabbed up some boxes out of 1/8" x 1" angle to mount/protect all this stuff. Drilled the sides of the angle in case I decide to install covers later. Anyway, got all my AN fittings, braided PFTE hose and everything on hand and tackled that job this weekend. Also removed the IP fitting and drilled out the holes to 5/32" and then chamfered the edges. Added a Walking-J AN fitting and popped it back into the IP. Got everything mounted, plumbed, wired, and primed yesterday and she started right up. Only one little leak where I forgot to tighten a fitting all the way. New Fuel Pres gauge is showing 14-15psi at idle with only a slight drop to about 11-12psi when I give it throttle. Let it run for about 10 mins then turned it off to install the new air box. Didn't have time to do a test ride last night to see if my problems are cured - I want to do one final safety check on a fresh head to make sure everything is tight and all wires & lines are secured. Have to say though, that Walbro pump is LOUD!! I'll try to post up some pictures of my setup later on.

So this may be a little premature since I don't know if my problem is fixed, but I just want to say thanks to everyone here for the vast amount of knowledge, helpful tips, informative posts, and excellent how-to's and lessons learned from previous fixes and upgrades. Between here & the place I feel like I can tackle almost anything on this truck. Also want to thank Leroy for his assistance and great parts at great prices. Also, 4thesporty for the inspiration and guidance on the fuel line upgrade.
 
Hey! thank you. BTW Walbro should not be real loud, you sure its primed? Have you started truck with it yet?
 
Hey Leroy. It is really loud. Truck starts and runs no problem, fuel pressure bounces between 14-15psi at idle and drops to about 10 at WOT. But yeah, it's really loud. At idle, I can hear it while in the cab with the windows up over the engine and exhaust noise. I didn't prime the pump itself - filled the pre filter and post filter with fuel and then put the line at the IP into a jar and powered up the pump to push the air out. Hooked it back up and she started no prob. Only prob I've had since was when I went to fill the tank completely from the 4 gal that I started the new tank with - was hard to start after that. Had to run the pump using the inline power connector and crank about 3 times.

Is there a specific way to prime the pump?
 
Few diff ways to prime it, as long as you have fuel up to the pump your good. The pump will actualy self prime, but I just like to advise priming it first as it cant hurt.
You may want to get a video of the pump running so I can show it to walbro then return it to me for exchange.
 
Yeah, I'll do that. I did notice it's louder at idle or when I let off the throttle, but I guess that's to be expected? Also, I'm wondering if my mounting system is exaggerating the noise....amplifying it through the bracket and frame if you will. Maybe I will try to put a piece of rubber between the pump and bracket with rubber washers between the flat washers.
 
Possible. A vid would help determine if its normal or not.

Mine is quite, cant hear it over the engine.
 
I took a couple vids. First is outside at key to run, then in cab at idle after start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jG0WrLMQTYI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Second is mixed speeds going down the road.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnF5oTxsgp0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Also noticed that right after install, fuel press guage would be nice and steady. 15psi at idle, 12-13 with some throttle and 6-9 with the pedal mashed. Now it bounces like crazy. Guess I need a snubber...



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
 
1st vid is "private" cant see it.
Second one yeah it seems to be really loud. Not sure if its a bad thing. It sounds like mine did when it was running dry the very first time trying to get a full prime. After that it runs real quite.
Its up to you, if you want to exchange it let me know.
Couple ways to do it, 1. you buy another one then return old one, once I get old one I'll credit you for one. 2. send old one back when I get it I'll send the new one.
 
Can see 1st one now. Thats way to loud. Unless you have the bracket banging against the frame or something?? Maybe try removing it from the mount and let it danggle from a bungy cord. Then see how loud it is.
 
Nope, that bracket is bolted tight to the frame with grade 8 bolts lol. I'll give that a try. But if you're pretty sure something's wrong I'll probably get another one from you and send this one back. Any chance it could still not be primed fully and it's trapped air making noise? Seems like it get's quieter when going around turns...
 
Its got to be primed as you have 10ish psi on the gauge. Just for grins remove it from its mount and see what happens.
 
I did the FRC10 from Leroy last year and its loud when it primes for me but then once the truck is running I can't hear it. It's funny. People think my battery is dead when I flick the key on and the tap tap tap starts. I'm having fuel starvation issues though and its frustrating. Leroy, does the FRC10 have a filter in it? I did just about everything you've done Closet except its factory fuel lines to the FFM from the outbound side of the FRC10. About ready to yank the whole thing and finish the job. The IP itself has 60k on it so I'm hoping that its fuel line related. Surges at various speeds like its not getting enough fuel, especially 70 mph though. I put my foot into it and Katie bar the door. Bat outta hell. So I think there's something going on either inside the FRC10 filter wise (I accidentally sucked up some bad bio about 3 mos ago and have been chasing this thing every since.)
 
Great stuff. I went thru similar fuel issues with the Burb. I hope it is all good when done. Based on what you have done it should be. All that is left is the IP and PMD.
 
Back
Top