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Fuel line replacement.

Nosferatu49534

Nosferatu49534

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Grand rapids
I’ve been absent for a while and returning with fuel line related question. I’ve been chasing a leak for a few month and basically determined the hardlines are rusted beyond safety. My local parts store can get replacements from dorman. I’m wondering if it’s safe/acceptable to just use straight rubber line all the way? I didn’t find a few threads talking about the correct line rubber line to use just not if it’s safe for it all to be rubber. I’m assuming the hard line coming down the back of the motor on the fire wall if for fire safety/prevention?

I will also be adding the filter set from Leroy when I do replace everything.
 
The factory ffm is an ok unit. The FTB is to get 3/8 all the way to the ip which is a great idea.
If you get an aftermarket filter set up that has 3/8 in and out then same results so long as you are filtering to 10microns, have a water separator and way to heat the fuel for cold weather starts.

Or are you talking a pre lift pump filter? These are good Especially when you get rid of the tank sock and have a high dollar lift pump to protect. When doing all this, the multi point pressure readings are good so you know when to change the filters based on loss of pressure vs guessing by miles driven. 30 micron normal for this.

on the fuel line- sae30r9 for the rubber. The more metal line you use, the better. I have done a couple trucks with all rubber, it works but securing it is worse. Wont last as long. Then also the rubber flexes and steals away the pressure building from the pump. Some folks argue the extra work wears on the lift pump sooner- idk about that but makes some sense. Also remember, if your supply line is junk your return line will be also. Do them at the same time.
I can’t recommend which line to use- more folks here that have done rusty line replacement than me I am sure.

make sure you stay away from red metals as you do it. No copper, brass, etc.
And add in the fuel pressure gauge tapped at the ip. Even if no gauge for now- put in fittings and plug it off until the gauge shows up. I am using electric this time with one sensor at ip, one before the ffm (leroys ffm adapter works for that). Later when I do a wazoo lift pump and prefilter I will add another sensor before that filter.
 
Last edited:
MrMarty51 said:
I’m not sure.
I thought that the FFM is a pretty decent setup, add the FTB and its even better.
Click to expand...
Kind of my thought as well.
Will L. said:
The factory ffm is an ok unit. The FTB is to get 3/8 all the way to the ip which is a great idea.
If you get an aftermarket filter set up that has 3/8 in and out then same results so long as you are filtering to 10microns, have a water separator and way to heat the fuel for cold weather starts.

Or are you talking a pre lift pump filter? These are good Especially when you get rid of the tank sock and have a high dollar lift pump to protect. When doing all this, the multi point pressure readings are good so you know when to change the filters based on loss of pressure vs guessing by miles driven. 30 micron normal for this.

on the fuel line- sae30r9 for the rubber. The more metal line you use, the better. I have done a couple trucks with all rubber, it works but securing it is worse. Wont last as long. Then also the rubber flexes and steals away the pressure building from the pump. Some folks argue the extra work wears on the lift pump sooner- idk about that but makes some sense. Also remember, if your supply line is junk your return line will be also. Do them at the same time.
I can’t recommend which line to use- more folks here that have done rusty line replacement than me I am sure.

make sure you stay away from red metals as you do it. No copper, brass, etc.
And add in the fuel pressure gauge tapped at the ip. Even if no gauge for now- put in fittings and plug it off until the gauge shows up. I am using electric this time with one sensor at ip, one before the ffm (leroys ffm adapter works for that). Later when I do a wazoo lift pump and prefilter I will add another sensor before that filter.
Click to expand...
Yes it’s a pre lift pump filter. I’m also going to have to drop the tank and fix a leak there as well. I’ll also remove the sock then. I will get the factory replacement hard lines. I was looking on rockauto as well and can get both set of lines before and after the lift pump. Would the pressure gauge go between the ffm and the injection pump?
 
The best is mounting a gauge sensor Using metal fittings attached to the ip.
@CursedH1 has a nice set up on his now. Maybe a thread posting here, please to help the truck owners? Maybe a parts list to help to out your fellow ds4 owners?
Us db2 people get away with adding one street tee fitting between the ip and the hose barb.

The problem with having any rubber after the gauge is the rubber can fail and give false readings to what the ip is actually getting.
 
I have the kit from Leroy Diesel for adding the pressure gauge at the FFM. I am not sure if that is pre, or post FFM.
I used the plastic tube into the cab, I will be changing that to an electronic gauge soon, right after I get the engine cooling issues resolved.
I got an inexpensive MrGasket fuel pressure gauge, bent a piece of that steel plumbers tape for a bracket, a hose clamp to hold the gauge and bracket together and screwed it to the underneath of the dash, left of the steer column.
When I have a phew extra bucks to spend, I do want to do the pre and the post FP gauge setup and I already have made another dash pod to mount them in. A three gauge unit like what might mount to the top of the dash, except, I made a plate out of a chunk of an old ( non stolen ) traffic sign and screwed the pod to that. I’ll then have the two FP gauges and a RH cylinder temp gauge mounted into that pod and make a riser and screw that to the floor, abead of the 4X4 shifter and have them lighted.
So far the Carter setup I got from Leroy is working very well and never see FP below about nine pounds.
 
@MrMarty51 this is how I did mine and it doesn’t get in the way of anything. The temp gauge to the left is for the passenger side head then boost in the middle and fuel to the right. I’m going to change the pod to a black one one day or get a 3 guage pillar pod

6B2150F8-A98E-4026-8B00-87BBE12870EC.jpeg
 
Thats part of why I am going electric now. 1 gauge and a switch. Read it all the time on ip location, then hit the switch to read pre filter which is only needed momentary. Run as many sensors as wanted, just switching to see each location on the gauge.
 
I finally picked up new hard lines from rock auto. Hope to have them in this week.

I will say though stupid fedex destroyed the box they came in. Thankfully the lines made it. Box was almost ripped in half. 🥵 it’s sad how shipping has gone down hill so much.
 
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