My fuel gauge has gone crazy! Not the sending unit or the grounds just put a new tank and sender on it. Can the gauge itself be replaced? I found a complete cluster but miles are off how do you change out the odometer between the old and new one or can you do that?
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Fuel gauge replacement?
- Thread starter Bigburban
- Start date
Did you clean the ground on the frame rail driver's side rear? That should be the ground for the sender. The ones I've had do that, it is the sender ground that is bad.The ground straps to the frame, under the heater-A/C box could do it also.
Yes, just the gauge unit can be replaced. One from a gasser should be the same.
Yes, just the gauge unit can be replaced. One from a gasser should be the same.
Scott, What the gauge doing? Bouncing?
BK I cleaned all the grounds for the sender when I replaced the tank and sender. I put a new end connection on the ground as well and cleaned where it bolts to the crossmember. Any other grounds?
Leroy the needle went all exorcist on me and spun in circles and even got stuck on the oil pressure gauge at one point, now all it does is sway back and forth waving at me anytime I stop or move the burb any direction.
Leroy the needle went all exorcist on me and spun in circles and even got stuck on the oil pressure gauge at one point, now all it does is sway back and forth waving at me anytime I stop or move the burb any direction.
Since I removed the connector and used a butt splice on the connection behind the glove box with the 2 wires, black and red, my gauge didn't do the exorcist:rof: The connector may look fine but can be fried inside. That black wire is the ground for the whole cluster and HVAC. The connector is undersized and a heater fan motor that draws too much will melt it.
Woody35
Active Member
you can roll the odemeter yourself manually when the gauge cluster is out. no need to swap them
Gauge replacement with the cluster out 95-99
I had a cluster laying loose so I opened it up to see how it works. The clear cover lens is held on by the cluster mounting screws. The shroud is held on by a couple latch tabs.
Then the gauge face comes off the cluster back by prying on the top and bottom in the center. Once the face is loose there is a cable that connects to a circuit board in the back. Unplug that and the face is free. Pry the needle off the offending gauge.
the gauge motor-movement is held on with 2-T7 torx screws. Replace motor/movement , put the needle back on and shroud.
The whole odometer-trip odometer can be removed with 4 T10 torx screws
This is the same with any of the gauges including the speedometer and tach
I had a cluster laying loose so I opened it up to see how it works. The clear cover lens is held on by the cluster mounting screws. The shroud is held on by a couple latch tabs.
Then the gauge face comes off the cluster back by prying on the top and bottom in the center. Once the face is loose there is a cable that connects to a circuit board in the back. Unplug that and the face is free. Pry the needle off the offending gauge.
the gauge motor-movement is held on with 2-T7 torx screws. Replace motor/movement , put the needle back on and shroud.
The whole odometer-trip odometer can be removed with 4 T10 torx screws
This is the same with any of the gauges including the speedometer and tach
Before I went to all that I would confirm your FSU is actualy good. See if a local auto parts will let you temp plug in a new FSU (maybe the place you got it from) Unplug it at the frame rail then plug in the new one. With key on raise and lower the float while someone watches the gauge.
The new FSU's are junk and fail regularly.
The new FSU's are junk and fail regularly.
Woody35
Active Member
:hihi: I needed the pics for myself to remember how it goes back together:???::???:
orrum
New Member
Barry I am impressed but I would be flabergastedly impressed if u tell me u goy it back together and it still works!!!! LOL
handcannon
Well-Known Member
I've got a question for you Barry, or anybody else for that matter. This is a slight hijack, but it is still about the gauge cluster.
I have a 94 so the cluster will be laid out a bit differently but I'm thinking the info needed will crossover to the newer clusters. The trip meter is very dimly lit and hard to see at night. As I remember it the bulbs lighting the dash are not close to the trip meter, but there are some other "things", apparently non-removable, in the back of the cluster that I was wondering about. I was wondering if they were some kind of additional lighting? Or maybe it is how the power is transfered through to the individual gauge. It's been several months since I had the cluster out to look at it so my memory has faded some.
Although this is not a 95 or newer cluster as the OP is asking about, I'm thinking the pics will give others an idea that the newer printed circuits will look similar to this. Anyhow, here's some pics of the printed circuit side of a 94 dash cluster. The first is the printed circuit. The second, though rather fuzzy, shows the pen tip pointing to the "things" that I was wondering about. Since this was my only cluster I didn't take any chances on messing up the cluster. I was wondering what these items were and if they could be removed without damaging them or the printed circuit.
Although this isn't directly about the OP gas gauge problem I'm hoping these pics and any resulting info will add to this thread.
If not, my apologies and this post can be deleted.
Don
I have a 94 so the cluster will be laid out a bit differently but I'm thinking the info needed will crossover to the newer clusters. The trip meter is very dimly lit and hard to see at night. As I remember it the bulbs lighting the dash are not close to the trip meter, but there are some other "things", apparently non-removable, in the back of the cluster that I was wondering about. I was wondering if they were some kind of additional lighting? Or maybe it is how the power is transfered through to the individual gauge. It's been several months since I had the cluster out to look at it so my memory has faded some.
Although this is not a 95 or newer cluster as the OP is asking about, I'm thinking the pics will give others an idea that the newer printed circuits will look similar to this. Anyhow, here's some pics of the printed circuit side of a 94 dash cluster. The first is the printed circuit. The second, though rather fuzzy, shows the pen tip pointing to the "things" that I was wondering about. Since this was my only cluster I didn't take any chances on messing up the cluster. I was wondering what these items were and if they could be removed without damaging them or the printed circuit.
Although this isn't directly about the OP gas gauge problem I'm hoping these pics and any resulting info will add to this thread.
If not, my apologies and this post can be deleted.
Don
Attachments
A lot of times the bulbs turn dark colored and don't light as good as they should. New bulbs-sockets may make it much better. 1 bulb being dark or not working can darken a big area of the cluster. It may be possible to get a higher watt bulb or LED conversion that fits. Too much draw could fry the printed circuit or main connector. I've seen the LED conversions in a thread here or at the place. I have no idea where to buy them.
orrum
New Member
Great white did a thing on them in his restification thread with all the info. I read nit but was beyond me! LOL
Handcannon its all good! I have heard about the LED lights and will be changing mine when I get the gauge cluster I got on order. Found a gauge cluster for $55.00 on ebay. LED's use less power and are alot brighter. Would love to find some red or blue LED light's.