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Fuel Economy Solutions

you notice I said I'dheard of guys doing that not that I'd done that

Yup, you may also notice I didn't say you did it.

Now you know that I know that you know that.....:hihi:

I'm about to test a tune that's reported to get 20-25 mpg on a 6.5 with 4:10 gears.

It will necessitate a few changes to the truck as it sits.

Time will tell the tale......
 
care to elaborate?

On what?

Tune is coming already done.


Not Heath, not Kennedy, not SSDieesel, etc. Westers did the initial .cal file, and given to me to alter as I see fit. Great guy, sent it to me at an outstanding "price".

Not allowed to redistribute it though folks. Please don't ask.

Not that I would anyways. It's just not ethical to do so with someone else's hard work that's been trusted to you.....

Going back to the vacuum waste-gate also.

Heath's PCM and Turbo Master will go up on the shelf while I test and tweak for both MPG and power.

We'll just have to wait and see where it goes.

Looking at the calibration file I was given reveals some.....interesting..... things.
 
Yup, you may also notice I didn't say you did it.

Now you know that I know that you know that.....:hihi:

I'm about to test a tune that's reported to get 20-25 mpg on a 6.5 with 4:10 gears.

It will necessitate a few changes to the truck as it sits.

Time will tell the tale......

:bigear: even though mine is Rear axle ratio 3.73 (GT4), 8.50 rear ring :bigear:
 
I'm about to test a tune that's reported to get 20-25 mpg on a 6.5 with 4:10 gears. . . . . Please don't ask.


Tease . . . !

Am still months, to a year, away from upgrading the Burb (unless something fails first), so let me know if there is interest in a nearly stock test bed / control group running 3.73’s.
 
Tease . . . !

Am still months, to a year, away from upgrading the Burb (unless something fails first), so let me know if there is interest in a nearly stock test bed / control group running 3.73’s.

No tease, "please don't ask" was about giving out the cal file.

My stuff is all "personal use" so it's for my truck only do no "control group" needed.
 
I can't fairly judge the "fuel miser" because they mistakingly used a cal file for the DS4-5068 IP with the wrong IP mapping for the 5521 IP, even though I reported the type of IP, and the suggested cal file was not for a 5068 IP. Then, because I eventually purchased a 5068 IP I asked them to swap it to a 5068 IP race calibration, and they sent me a calibration for the wrong type of IP, the 5067/5521, even though I sent the stock 5068 cal chip to them.

In general the tuning lowered shift points, increased shift pressure, and the one good thing was upping boost where needed, but leaving it next to nothing when you dont need it. compared to arbitrarily setting the boost curve high like others do. I cannot tell if the terribly low shifted timing curve was for 5068 IP, or they do it for all of them, I didnt dare get another one from them to find out. The low timing might be useable with low gearing.
 
I've heard of guys decarboning an engine by getting it good and warm and running a garden hose down the intake. as much water as it will take without stalling it along with a lil throttle

With all my gassers, I usually let the engine warm up to operating temp. then pull off a manifold vacuum hose and let the engine suck up water through there.

That's not exactly possible with a diesel, but the water method is very effective. Which is why water/meth injection can have great immediate effects on the way the engine runs. You steam blast the carbon out of it and then it stays clean and works great.
 
In general the tuning lowered shift points, increased shift pressure, and the one good thing was upping boost where needed, but leaving it next to nothing when you dont need it. compared to arbitrarily setting the boost curve high like others do. I cannot tell if the terribly low shifted timing curve was for 5068 IP, or they do it for all of them, I didnt dare get another one from them to find out. The low timing might be useable with low gearing.

I'm not familiar at all with the 6.5 PCM's and tuning, but I was wondering if they were hindered with Torque Management?

I know that it saves a stock tranny from bad drivers and bad/non-existant maintenance, but a well tuned, well maintained stock 4L80E or a built trans could benefit from removing it from the tuning. This is for the Vortec truck engines (96-current), which is the only engine I have any knowledge about, when it comes to tuning.
 
It has some torque management, but I wouldnt call it plagued, at least not in the OBD1 programs. It doesnt hinder anyone unless the tranny actually has an issue.
 
I'm not familiar at all with the 6.5 PCM's and tuning, but I was wondering if they were hindered with Torque Management?

I know that it saves a stock tranny from bad drivers and bad/non-existant maintenance, but a well tuned, well maintained stock 4L80E or a built trans could benefit from removing it from the tuning. This is for the Vortec truck engines (96-current), which is the only engine I have any knowledge about, when it comes to tuning.

Depends on what you call "hindered"...

Does the cal protect the transmission?

Yes.

Does it hurt performance?

That's a matter of opinion and what you consider "performance".....
 
Depends on what you call "hindered"...

Does the cal protect the transmission?

Yes.

Does it hurt performance?

That's a matter of opinion and what you consider "performance".....

My experience is mostly with the gassers hooked up to 4L60E's and 4L80E's. The TM must be more aggressive, to keep from breaking shit in the 1-2 shift.
Even though our diesels have more TQ, I think it's RPM that does the gassers in...especially with people doing full throttle runs on stock transmissions.

Back on topic, I'm not sure if anyone suggested this yet, but I would look into getting a front end alignment and have your brakes cleaned, serviced and lubricated. If you got sticky slide pins, then buy a new caliper hardware kit and pins. Just to make sure they are working like they should and not sticking and causing drag. Same goes for the rear's as well, whether they are drums or disc's.
 
I've heard of guys decarboning an engine by getting it good and warm and running a garden hose down the intake. as much water as it will take without stalling it along with a lil throttle

Ive done this on gassers. Water will decarbon quickly. Have you noticed if you have a head thats been pulled and you just let it sit the humitiy alone will cause the carbon to flake off.
I think GM even has their "GM top end cleaner" that uses the same method.
 
Ive done this on gassers. Water will decarbon quickly. Have you noticed if you have a head thats been pulled and you just let it sit the humitiy alone will cause the carbon to flake off.
I think GM even has their "GM top end cleaner" that uses the same method.
The old Water de-carbon thing is Very not advisable in diesels. Unless the spray in cleaner clearly states its for diesels don't use that either. Don't use ether either :)
 
I did it on a gasser.
I've done it on gassers to. Tractors (gas) seem to carbon up more than road engines, so that's where I picked it up, from some old geezer. Now I am a old geezer :eek:lcoot: Old Flathead engines are bad about carbon-ing up too. I never do it to a newer high (8 to1 ?? and up) compression engines, or anything that has a reputation of being delicate. I think aluminum engines should not be de-carbon-ed with water either. :agreed:

I didn't want some one to come along and half way read into this pouring water down the intake of a running engine was a good thing to do without qualification. :D
 
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