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Front Passenger Door won't open using interior or exterior handles.

Paveltolz

Доверяй, но проверяй
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Location
Saratoga Springs, UT
Replaced all four the interior door handles on the 99 Suburban. I noted that for the front doors, the previous owner had also done this in the past (screws used in place of the rivet on both doors). I also noted what appeared to be an aftermarket door latch rod as it wasn't the OEM one-piece unit (driver's side door was OEM). This one appeared to be two rods with adjustable length set by a sleeve with set screws. Odd but, it was working before so I didn't give it much thought.

Passenger Interior Door operated just as it should afterwards so I completed the install by putting the door panel on and buttoning everything up, 'good as new.' But, a day later the exterior handle wouldn't open the door whereas the interior one would. Figured I'd get to it later. Well, its later and now the door won't open for love or money with either the interior or exterior door handles.
Window rolls up and down.
Locks appear to be functioning with the key, key fob and interior manual and electrical operations but, I can't see what's going on inside the door because the panel is on...
Now I need to pull the panel with the door closed so I'm searching for replacement panels on Car-Parts dot.com just in case i FUBAR this thing up.
Have already ordered new exterior handles, door latch actuator rods, lock actuator rods and door latch.

I'll pull the front passenger seat and remove the floor seat belt attachment too to give some room. Trick will be the A-Pillar side.
Stand by but, don't hold your breath. I don't work fast.
 
Thanks all for the replies. I took out the seat and seat belt to get some maneuver room and after removing the accessories and screws from the panel was able to get it off without damage using an inexpensive set of trim removal tools I picked up yesterday.
It was a lot of trial and error to get it sorted out. I have a feeling that when the original owner had his initial issues, he boogered things up enough 'fixing' it that it's now giving me these problems.
Seems the door issue is a combination of that odd, non-OEM inside door handle rod and the locking rod. Cleaned the locking rod and its two plastic guides but if the rod is snapped into both guides, the lock rod gets bound up. Once the lock was sorted out, the door still wouldn't always open as it should. So, I addressed the inside door handle rod. It needed to be adjusted for length and clearances around the door lock actuator and window regulator.
Apparently, there's enough differences between the old replacement handle he used and new handle that it took a bit of fiddling and slight bending of that inside door handle rod to get it to behave and then I needed to adjust it for length. Seems to be sorted out but, I haven't put everything back together because I'm going to replace that inside door handle rod with the new rod that's 'in the mail.' I'll wait and see about doing the latching mechanism and external door handle.

I noticed in all the excitement that the driver's side, back door isn't locking either so I've got that one to play around with later too. Yay, projects.
 
Thanks all for the replies. I took out the seat and seat belt to get some maneuver room and after removing the accessories and screws from the panel was able to get it off without damage using an inexpensive set of trim removal tools I picked up yesterday.
It was a lot of trial and error to get it sorted out. I have a feeling that when the original owner had his initial issues, he boogered things up enough 'fixing' it that it's now giving me these problems.
Seems the door issue is a combination of that odd, non-OEM inside door handle rod and the locking rod. Cleaned the locking rod and its two plastic guides but if the rod is snapped into both guides, the lock rod gets bound up. Once the lock was sorted out, the door still wouldn't always open as it should. So, I addressed the inside door handle rod. It needed to be adjusted for length and clearances around the door lock actuator and window regulator.
Apparently, there's enough differences between the old replacement handle he used and new handle that it took a bit of fiddling and slight bending of that inside door handle rod to get it to behave and then I needed to adjust it for length. Seems to be sorted out but, I haven't put everything back together because I'm going to replace that inside door handle rod with the new rod that's 'in the mail.' I'll wait and see about doing the latching mechanism and external door handle.

I noticed in all the excitement that the driver's side, back door isn't locking either so I've got that one to play around with later too. Yay, projects.

I have the same issue with the guides for the door lock rod: they create enough resistance that the actuator cannot overcome. I just leave the rod hanging commando style.
 
Turns out that it’s the same issue with the left rear door. Cleaning the rods & Plastic/nylon guides showed only minimal improvement so, commando it is only with some gorilla tape in the regions where the door latch and locking rods make contact to prevent another rattle.
 
The GMT400 series Suburbans are known to have these issues not locking or unlocking making manual lock/unlock entry and exit impossible....there were more than a few incidents where individuals lost their lives because they could not get out of a burning vehicle or one submerged......me I just blow out the window with my pistol but most do not have that option.
 
I didn't know about the loss of life issues...thanks for the info. It is something that bothers me with that L.R. door too as to actuate it manually isn't currently possible. I'll pick up some escape tools and put them in the seat back pockets with a lanyard...cheap insurance for that 'what if' concern.
 
Turns out that it’s the same issue with the left rear door. Cleaning the rods & Plastic/nylon guides showed only minimal improvement so, commando it is only with some gorilla tape in the regions where the door latch and locking rods make contact to prevent another rattle.

How is that working out for you?

BTE ordered carpet kit. This is molded carpet with Mass back and the jute padding already on it. Shipping was over $100. Had to do it because there was no way that I was going to get the spilled diesel out of the old carpet.
 
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