Front Brakes

[Sunshine]

At last I've manage to remove the front rotors after using an electrical bolt heat that warms them up nearly white hot in an instant, welded new nuts on their heads but two of them I had to use a Dremel grinder plus drilling on those 4x15mm bolts....

I started to wonder what comes after Red loctite ..

I would like to know how I can remove the bearings as its a complete assembly rotor, hub,bearings & lugs all in one, not like the one in the DIY forum...

When replacing should I use a Blue loctite or copper paste...

Thank you in advance....

 

[Matt Bachand]

At last I've manage to remove the front rotors after using an electrical bolt heat that warms them up nearly white hot in an instant, welded new nuts on their heads but two of them I had to use a Dremel grinder plus drilling on those 4x15mm bolts....

Could you elaborate more on this electric bolt heat thing you have?

 

[Sunshine]

Could you elaborate more on this electric bolt heat thing you have?

This guy I know works at Volvo as a panel beater he borrowed it, I think it was called an induction heater about 3 foot high had a water canister inside to cool it, looked like a an old type of soldering iron try and find out a bit more over the weekend.

After 5 seconds the bolts were red hot very impressive.. googled it... try this site nearly the same, Themal Expansion.. hope it helps..

http://www.autotronheater.com/default.asp?ID=10

 

[625fireman]

To answer your red loctite ? They make a green loctitie that is heat resistant.

 

[guybb3]

To answer your red loctite ? They make a green loctitie that is heat resistant.

It's called 290 iirc and you might as well weld stuff on when you use it.

 

[thedole]

I sent you a pm Sunshine, hopefully it'll nudge you in the right direction.

 

[packratt]

It's called 290 iirc and you might as well weld stuff on when you use it.

To answer your red loctite ? They make a green loctitie that is heat resistant.

Ford used that green crap on the tension strut in my T-bird's front suspension. The nut gets torqued to 110ft/lbs and it was all my 3/4" impact could do to get undone.

Locktite also makes a sleeve and bearing retainer that requires a torch to remove.

 

[Acesneights1]

I can't get the rotors off my 3500. I think I may have to burn them off with a torch. BTW how hard is it to do wheelbearings in these front ends ?

 

[btfarm]

Ford used that green crap on the tension strut in my T-bird's front suspension. The nut gets torqued to 110ft/lbs and it was all my 3/4" impact could do to get undone.

Locktite also makes a sleeve and bearing retainer that requires a torch to remove.

Green Loctite is RC609. It's has to be heated to break it loose after curing according to Loctite literature. We use it sparingly! It's the same stuff you get with a speedy sleeve kit for your vibration damper IIRC.

 

[ghitch75]

I can't get the rotors off my 3500. I think I may have to burn them off with a torch. BTW how hard is it to do wheelbearings in these front ends ?

the bearings are non serviceable...you have to replace the hub and all....disks are held by the wheel studs through the hub.... you have to drive the studs out to get the disk off.......a real joy to change disks....someone before me(on the burb) left 1 of the hub bolt heads stripped for me...had to blow it off with a torch...only place to get the weird bolts is from the stealer...then after all of that i broke the wheel speed sensor and didn't know it tell put it all back together:mad2::mad2::mad2:...so i have to pull it apart again

 

[Sunshine]

I can't get the rotors off my 3500. I think I may have to burn them off with a torch. BTW how hard is it to do wheelbearings in these front ends ?

Kenny,, you have my fullest sympathy, if you torch the bolts (use electric if you can) you'll have to be careful coz of the rubber boots are so close one slip and you're in the deepest of sh**t.

GM as far as i understand only sell the complete assembly rotor,hub, bearing, ABS,& lugs.

TD, Tim has had this problem if you go to back and read his notes...

Take care...

 

[thedole]

the bearings are non serviceable...you have to replace the hub and all....disks are held by the wheel studs through the hub.... you have to drive the studs out to get the disk off.......a real joy to change disks....someone before me(on the burb) left 1 of the hub bolt heads stripped for me...had to blow it off with a torch...only place to get the weird bolts is from the stealer...then after all of that i broke the wheel speed sensor and didn't know it tell put it all back together:mad2::mad2::mad2:...so i have to pull it apart again

About the same here ghitch, my wheel speed sensors are busted on both sides. The first one I didn't know about until I had it all together again, the second one I REALLY ****ed up so there was no doubt on the state of that one.. I managed to forget about the dust shield on that first side also. Put that one down to wrenching into the dark night with poor lights and an exhausted brain.

 

[bk95td]

I ended up breaking the rotors with a sledgehammer and then heating the bearing where the bolts thread in with a torch. The heads on the bolts were all rounded off by po. I welded nuts on the rounded off bolts. A real pia. I got new bolts at the stealer for $5 each. I didn't use any locktite when I reassembeled.

 

[Sunshine]

I ended up breaking the rotors with a sledgehammer and then heating the bearing where the bolts thread in with a torch. The heads on the bolts were all rounded off by po. I welded nuts on the rounded off bolts. A real pia. I got new bolts at the stealer for $5 each. I didn't use any locktite when I reassembeled.

bk95td... "A real pia" ... defiantly an under statement..

Here the bolts are $11 each .. there again we are one of the riches countries in the world...except for the people who live here....

Okay, that can come to a dialogue ..but at the moment, I / We, love to keep our Trucks here in Scandinavia that the US have made, Alive, with all of your help... with thanks...

 

[Slim Shady]

It's called 290 iirc and you might as well weld stuff on when you use it.

X2 on the green loctite, had to scrap a housing on a piece of equipment because someone used green (slip fit) loctite on it. Couldn't get the piece to come apart, heated it and ruined the housing before it loosened up.

I even had a 6.2 that had loctite shaft repair used to fill the gaps between the harmonic balancer bore and the shaft. Ran for years with no problem.