• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Fluidampr install

HighSierra86

Active Member
Messages
765
Reaction score
45
Location
Northwest CT
Finally getting around to installing the Fluidampr I purchased from leroy 4 years ago.....

First off, I can't comprehend how anyone could have possibly installed one of these with a mallet as stated on some of the forums. I built an install tool with an old crank bolt and holy s**t did it take a lot of effort and torque to get that thing on. Way more than the 200ftlbs.

I just had a question in regards to the point of final install. The directions are very vague and everything Ive read states to install until flush with the crankshaft. Well I've installed it to the point of "bottoming out" and its no where near flush with anything. In fact it is so close to touching the oil pan that it appears the gasket is touching.

Ive installed the bolt and torqued to the 200ft lbs and test fit the belt pulley. Belt seems to line up perfectly with the p.s. pump and a/c. so im going to guess the fit is correct despite my concerns.

Can anyone shed some light on why it was so difficult to press fit onto the crank? I would feel better hearing from someone who had a similar situation. Maybe the aftermarket stock replacement dampers tend to be an easier install? Im just concerned at this point that maybe I could have crushed the key or something?

Thanks, Nick

IMG_4553.JPG IMG_4554.JPG IMG_4555.JPG
 
Good to go. Fluidampr uses a lil more 'interference fit' than OE across the board. My 6.2/5 was like that, even the gasser ones I've installed are tight tight. You would not have gotten that far if the key was misaligned. Beautiful piece of equipment.
 
Thanks for the replies. Should be able to sleep a little easier now!

I've finally started on reassembly today with my DB2 conversion and this held me up a bit.

I will say this, for anyone building their own install tool, use a high quality throw out bearing or something of that nature. I underestimated how much force would be required and used a light duty cart ball bearing. Needless to say that only lasted about half way into the install...

Nick
 
Back
Top