Flatbed for Ford Ranger

[treegump]

So, I traded the headache rack I built for the Duramax, as well as a few other things for a late 80's s-10 flatbed.

It's about 90" long and 59" wide. My truck, at it's widest, is 69" wide and 80" long.

I have been bouncing back and forth on whether I wanted to do this, but the bed supports are looking pretty bad, so I thought it won't be a bad thing.

Also, since I traded upside down for the truck, I'm going to have the truck indefinitely, so I might as well do what I want with it, haha.

First things first - removed the old decking. Most of the screws broke when I tried unscrewing them, so I just used a big bar and broke them off.

Grind down screw stubs and major rust spots, next- wire wheel rest of the rust as best as I could.

I took work's plasma cutter and cut off the edging so that I could add material to the outside edges to widen the bed. I was considering on removing the skirting anyhow since the wheel wells are off, and I plan on building underbed tool boxes.

The only thing I haven't figured out is how to lift the bed 6+ inches to account for flex... I have some 10" C-channel, but I'm afraid that will weigh down the Ford greatly! I kind of like the idea of using the space between the frame rails and under the bed - especially if I have 6+ inches... Not a fan of using wood, but I know plenty of people use it to keep the weight down... I guess wood would also be a good cushion for things in the bed...

Anyhow - project is postponed till I figure out my coolant leak (might just be radiator) and also my rear spring perches and shackles are rusting/tearing..

https://goo.gl/photos/zvHqkNnL9ZP4xrXp6

Made a mistake though when I cut the top railing - removed the vertical support for the bed. So, the last picture shows me lifting it to move it outside (didn't want a personal project inside the shop during business hours) - and the bed was bending in the middle...

 

[treegump]

The rest of the photos. And the last one is of the bed flexing from lack of support..

 

[Will L.]

OMG that is a heavy bed for a lil truck.

You need full fore-aft stringers to support that design. Nothing major 2 pieces of 2" angle iron 1/8". Then for your height do vertical 3" channel to factory bed mount locations with 1/8" plate at the mount itself. 1/4" sheet rubber between the plate and the mount.

Unless you are trying to match the weight of that bed. Then sure 2 -6" channel iron stringers on 1/2" plank like a 1 ton or larger truck would get with u-bolts to tighten annually.

I do not miss apitonge wood,but it's the best when you deck it. Liberal use of boiled linseed oil after install. Discard the rag used for mopping the oil cautiously- many a spontaneous fires as that crap evaporates away from the rag.

Flemingmetals.com if anyone decides to build a nice, strong, lightweight flatbed.

 

[treegump]

Most of the bed is angle or c-channel, so once I cut the skirting off and the headboard off, I don't think it'll be that bad. (was planning on using a combo of 1/8" sheet and expanded steel for the headache rack, 2x4 tubing for pockets, and hadn't decided on tail of ranger)

Also hadn't decided on tool boxes, but they'll probably be framed with 1/8" angle and the skins will be sheet metal to ensure beefy build yet keep it lighter weight.

As I said before, I have 10" c-channel (1/4" thick, and 2-3/4" wide channel) - but I could cut one in half and use one half per frame rail? Maybe just cut up the c-channel in pieces so that I have 4 or 6 supports, and that would lessen weight as well?

If I put any fore-aft stringers in (I'm assuming that smarter talk for "front to back") - should I cut out some of the other parallel steel to lighten the bed?

Should I put the rubber between the factory frame rail and new rail? Or between new rail and new bed?

I'm trying to use the steel I have which is:

(all tubing is 1/8" unless otherwise stated)
3-10' tubes of 2-1/2 x 1-1/2
1-3' tubes of 2-1/2 x 1-1/2
2-9.5' tubes of 1.5 x 1.5
2 pieces over 80" and 2 pieces shorter than 80" of 10x2.75x2.75x1/4" C-channel
4'x6' (possibly 4x8) sheet of 1/16" sheet metal
4x6 sheet of expanded steel (1/8")
And misc other pieces.

I have access to a plasma cutter, industrial band saw, 480 volt wire feed welder, chop saw, grinder, impact drivers, and much more as long as I'm doing it at my work place..

(I'm not scrapping the bed of the truck until I'm confident the flatbed will work. So, if I need to turn around and sell the flatbed, than I'm ok with that as long as I give this a try.)

 

[Will L.]

I went back and re-read. I missed where you said your bed mounts were bad. Ubolt mounting is probably your best way to go. Yes you can just use sections of the heavy channel you have to mount it, using what you need.

Ya, I would loose some of that center section they built where it had a 5th wheel mount.

We used expanded metal for our headboards, only draw backs is- hard to get good paint coverage which lends itself to early rusting. A good trick for that is if you can get that part powder coated. I'm sure you don't want to drop cash for that to start.

You need some flex/ cushion between bed and frame. Rubber is better than wood. Factory uses rubber. A good freebie can be old covey or belting if you can find some. The wood is supposed to be for class 6,7,8 trucks that are full length frame contact. And ONLY apitonge wood should be used. People see wood and just try to copy. I've seen frames ruined over heavy beds and use of pine wood 2x4.

Did I miss anything else?

 

[treegump]

I don't think you've missed anything...

How would you recommend I use ubolts to secure the bed?

As I said in my original post, the flatbed is 59" wide, which includes the 1/8" skirting on either side. And my truck is 69" wide at the widest point.

If I installed it with that width, I imagine it would look like the attached photo.

But, if I wanted to widen the bed, would it be best to cut down the center of the bed and weld tubing into the cross members? Or would it be better to weld tubing on the outside rails flat?

On second thought (actually more like 12th thought) I wonder if I should cut another of those 10" c-channels in half and weld them on either side. That way I have a stiff, strong, solid side pieces. I could weld angle piece underneath to add additional supports...

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The only reason I would consider using treated lumber over the apitong wood is that I would feel less bad if I screwed and unscrewed into it. Or does apitong wood live up to abuse? Another benefit to a wood deck, besides weight reduction, is that it's more easily replaceable and it absorbs impacts better.

I've attached a couple sketches of ideas.

 

[treegump]

Per the sketch that I posted, can I get some votes on how I should raise/secure the bed?

Thank you.

 

[Will L.]

I'm not at home to see sketch good on computer, my phone I cant see good enough. For now:
http://www.ntea.com/docid/default.aspx?id=29476

Apitonge handles abuse WAY better than any other wood you'll find. It is what is use in semi trailers down to small QUALITY beds. Draw backs are: pricey, hard to find, splinters in your fingers hurt when installing, you need to coated with boiled linseed oil.

If you can't find/ afford it now- use cdx plywood or a year while you save/ search for it.

 

[treegump]

Coolant & oil leaks repaired - and hopefully some other preventative maintenance done to ensure no other leaks happen for a while..

Replaced the valve cover gasket because there was oil caked/cooked on top and all around the edges of the cover. Replaced the intake gaskets because I wanted to REALLY clean the top of the motor if I was going to go thru the trouble of replacing the valve cover gasket. Replaced the PCV valve because I read that if there is pressure to push oil out from the valve cover or intake, then it could be clogged. (And since there was no rattle, and it was caked, I'm guessing it was clogged.)

Replaced the radiator because I believe that was the main source of the leak. It was leaking around the edge and puddling at the bottom.

Replaced the water pump because I was going to have everything else taken out and there appeared to be residue on the bottom side (and changed the thermostat housing because it's recommended that the thermostat be changed when a radiator is changed and I didn't want to create another potential leak by just changing out the thermostat) - but in hindsight, should have just left the water pump and thermostat housing as was because now the sensors on top are leaking...I think.

Replaced the o-rings on the sensors by pulling the intake hose, throttle body, and upper intake hose. It's easiest to pull the whole sensor, with the electrical connector attached, out when pulling them from the thermostat housing. I then tilted the truck up so the bed end was in the air so I could shop-vac the top of the motor and then proceeded to blow the top of the motor off with compressed air.

Some pictures of all of that: https://goo.gl/photos/CGaS3gMa8tGXzupz5

 

[treegump]

I've uploaded some of the main before and after pictures of the shackle/mount repair. For more: https://goo.gl/photos/54b3ytfJxY9YtLGE7

 

[treegump]

You need full fore-aft stringers to support that design. Nothing major 2 pieces of 2" angle iron 1/8". Then for your height do vertical 3" channel to factory bed mount locations with 1/8" plate at the mount itself. 1/4" sheet rubber between the plate and the mount.

I've got some 2x4 tubing, 1/8" wall, - could I use that with 4" going up and down as my fore-aft stringers? Than use either 1x1 or maybe the circular tubing vertically and use bolts to attach the bed to the frame?

What I can't figure, is that there is 8" from my bumpstop to the axle stop which means I need at least 8" from the top of my tire to the bottom of the bed. That would be about 6" off the top of the frame. (This doesn't include any flex which might be an inch or two more?) I'm thinking that I will probably end up welding to the frame (as much as I don't want to) to ensure that the bed is stable with the least amount of weight.

Below is a photo of the steel that I had for the bed project. I was hoping not to have to buy any other steel, as the place that I purchase from is on the east side of Indy.

 

[Will L.]

Yes the 2 x 4 will work very well for the stringers, I was just saying that angle to try to save you some weight. Already have it in stock I would use it also.

On the room of travel for the suspension, that is unfortunately why pick up beds have wheel wells built into them. That small of a truck, idk how bad it would be to increase bump stop height to limit it. I would at least build the bed so the wheel can hit a sheet of steel plate and let the tire rub it and cause no damage other than a bit of tire wear.

Usually, the tire will hit only one side at a time when articulating.

On welding to the frame: do you understand the flanges of the frame? You cannot drill or a weld on the top or bottom flanges, including the corner for part of the frame. Also you should not do anything in between the front and rear spring hangers that can affect twisting of the frame.

Dang I wish I could go there to help you with it. I'm so bad at sharing info that I can just do in person in a day.

 

[treegump]

Trust me that whatever assistance you can provide online is more help than even googling. Many of the flatbed mods that I've come across has people welding on top of the flange, or on the side of the frame and almost always between the spring perches.

I'll look into making bolt mounts for the frame, probably a tube inside square tubing - this way I can bolt the bed to the frame.

Also, considering the size of the bed, and the tubing that I have available, I have considered just making a frame. But I'd hate to waste the bed below. On the one hand, it's rather rusty; but on the other hand, it's got a sub frame that I think will help with the clearance that I'm searching for.

I also considered increasing the bump stop height - just didn't know if that was an option or not.

And as for decking, I haven't asked for a quote yet, but it appears I might be able to order it here: http://www.trailerdecking.com/

 

[Will L.]

THats a good place for the wood. If you don't have the deck screws, they probably do. I prefer self tapping 1/4"-20 tapered torx drive. You pre drill 13/64, then use torx socket on 3/8 impact.

 

[treegump]

Another horrible sketch, but I think I might try to use 2x4 tubing perpendicular with the frame rails in the 4 places where there are bolt holes and anchor them there. Than use two 2x4 tubing parallel with the frame rails to act as my fore-aft supports for the bed - this way I'll have bracing both ways, I'll use the bolt holes, and I'll gain my clearance for the wheels. That should work anyhow, correct?

Then, to hide the fact that I've lifted the bed so much, I hope to put some sort of storage underneath the bed.

 

[Will L.]

Raising it that high make a high center of gravity, and would be difficult loading and unloading. I really can't speak on it not seeing it in person. I'd say tack things together not welded compost and place the bed. Make sure it's how you want it before welding everything fully.

 

[treegump]

I decided not to use the flatbed. There is an abundant amount of rust underneath, so I'll just make my own. I'll try and figure out a way to get the depth without raising the bed, if that's possible.