dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
leaving them loose should be fine. I think you just have a lot of air to work out of the fuel system.
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Eye connectors
- Thread starter panran
- Start date
Thanks for not giving up on all my questions gentlemen .. I almost gave up while jumping the LP and looking down in the IP seemed like no fuel was rising, kept saying last try and when I meant last try I looked over and the fuel was at the top..so I put the outlet valve back in and cranked it and fuel was in the clear hose…. I am still getting air and not solid fuel yet and nothing to the injectors which the fuel lines are loose, but right now I’m recharging the batteries…so when charged I should keep cranking till no more air in the hose and the injector lines have fuel coming out…thanks for keeping me going.. I was feeling down today but things are looking better…a couple of pics
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jrsavoie
Recruit
With key on or fuel shut down solenoid jumpered and lift pump jumpered you should get a trickle out the IP return line.
I've let vehicles sit like that for hours. It seemed to help.
I've let vehicles sit like that for hours. It seemed to help.
jrsavoie
Recruit
You don't have to gut the solenoid or crank the engine at first.
Gutting is Ok. As long as you don't have a runaway
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Ok stop. This is going sideways.
Put the solenoid back together and install it.
Run an electrical jumper wire to force the lift pump to operate with the key off.
Inspect all the fuel lines you can see from the tank to the lift pump looking for bad connections or cracked, this is 99% chance where the air is getting in the line. The absolute best is to replace all the rubber line with steel wherever possible, then all rubber lines must be SAE30R9. New quality clamps.
Do not use any copper, brass, galvinized, or aluminum in the repairs.
What would be a place fuel leaks out - if between the tank and the lift pump it will not leak out fuel but will suck in air.
If you don’t replace the old rubber hose, or can’t find any leaks then you must buy clear 5/16” line, install it from the ffm to the ip.
This will tell you if the air is getting in before the ip or because of a faulty ip. It is super rare to be the ip.
Put the solenoid back together and install it.
Run an electrical jumper wire to force the lift pump to operate with the key off.
Inspect all the fuel lines you can see from the tank to the lift pump looking for bad connections or cracked, this is 99% chance where the air is getting in the line. The absolute best is to replace all the rubber line with steel wherever possible, then all rubber lines must be SAE30R9. New quality clamps.
Do not use any copper, brass, galvinized, or aluminum in the repairs.
What would be a place fuel leaks out - if between the tank and the lift pump it will not leak out fuel but will suck in air.
If you don’t replace the old rubber hose, or can’t find any leaks then you must buy clear 5/16” line, install it from the ffm to the ip.
This will tell you if the air is getting in before the ip or because of a faulty ip. It is super rare to be the ip.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Yes please put the solenoid back together. if things to south it can run away! I think your almost there where you should soon see fuel at the injectors.
Yes I noticed when I have the lift pump running.. I have a leak towards the back of the engine I’ll get under the truck in the morning…so I didn’t realize that would cause the air in the fuel line good to know and I’ll put cut off solenoid back together…thanks