• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Exhaust manifold heat sheilds

With the engine cool….

From around the glow plugs? Remove glow plug wires carefully so as not to break the connectors.
Soak the nuts on the studs with a rust loosening / break free solution of choice.
Use a 13 mm socket and back the nuts off the studded exhaust manifold bolts.

From under the turbo, Back out the two Phillips head screws, grasp heat shield on both sides and pull upwards & out while wiggling back and forth to “walk” it out.
 
With the engine cool….

From around the glow plugs? Remove glow plug wires carefully so as not to break the connectors.
Soak the nuts on the studs with a rust loosening / break free solution of choice.
Use a 13 mm socket and back the nuts off the studded exhaust manifold bolts.

From under the turbo, Back out the two Phillips head screws, grasp heat shield on both sides and pull upwards & out while wiggling back and forth to “walk” it out.
I like to have the block heater plugged in for that stuff.

Seems to make an appreciable difference in how things come apart.
 
I would like heat in the garage
That would be a nice feature. Insulation and concrete would be nice too

I told them I didn't want rave vents and they put 1' tall eave vents on each side. So before I can have the roof spray foamed, I have to cover the chicken wire vents. If it wasn't for that, I'd probably at least have the roof insulated and painted.
Don't buy a Clearly building. They suck.
 
With the engine cool….

From around the glow plugs? Remove glow plug wires carefully so as not to break the connectors.
Soak the nuts on the studs with a rust loosening / break free solution of choice.
Use a 13 mm socket and back the nuts off the studded exhaust manifold bolts.

From under the turbo, Back out the two Phillips head screws, grasp heat shield on both sides and pull upwards & out while wiggling back and forth to “walk” it out.
Have the nuts off but where are the two screws are they pointed down beside the valve cover? As far as I know they should be loose and they are not.
 
Have you thought of buying a kerosene Reddy Heater to use for heat? You can get an 80,000BTU unit for under $200 from Northern Tool. The nice thing is that almost all of them also run perfectly fine on #2 diesel, too. Just leave a door or window cracked for fresh air while it's on.
 
I never did burn diesel in my reddi heater. Kerosene only. It takes less time for the heater to get warmed up and wuit making smells. Burning Kerosene does not smell so bad as diesel.
Thats just my personal experiences.
 
Did You remove the right side fender well ?
I changed injectors without removing the inner fender well and it was no easy task.
Now that I have had a little experience removing the inner fender I can see how much nicer it is to work on that side of the engine.
 
Have you thought of buying a kerosene Reddy Heater to use for heat? You can get an 80,000BTU unit for under $200 from Northern Tool. The nice thing is that almost all of them also run perfectly fine on #2 diesel, too. Just leave a door or window cracked for fresh air while it's on.
Be sure it's a dual fuel before you buy. My salamander will only run on kerosene.

It'll run on diesel, but not for long.
 
Have the nuts off but where are the two screws are they pointed down beside the valve cover? As far as I know they should be loose and they are not.
Sorry I missed this question. Been working on another project.
For the answer though, the screws are on top and attach to a bracket that also secures the fuel injector lines.
1671114240799.jpeg

1671114803332.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I will answer a few questions now. The inner fender was taken off before I took the turbo off. And yes the screws were taken out at the same time. It is in the 20s this am and I will wait till it warms up some to do more
Thanks all
 
I have an old Reddy Heater 40 (40,000 BTU) that I bought back in like 1995. That thing kicks out enough heat that I used it when I swapped out the 360 in my old '72 Dodge Adventure Sport D100 pickup one December night in my driveway. Got home from work 11:15pm. Had it pointed under the front bumper, the heat coming up through the engine compartment and under the engine/transmission was enough that I was able to work bare-handed even though it was 11°F out that night. Kept the wrenches I was using on the lower backside lip of the bumper and they were plenty warm to grab ahold of. Used the same heater years later when we were building decks and 3-Season rooms during the cold season. Once we got the wall panels up and the roof panels on it was pretty darn nice inside and when the windows and doors were put into their openings in the walls - off came the Carharts to finish off the interior trimming!

Anyhow, about 15 years ago I called the Customer Service phone number on the heater to ask about using #2 Diesel in it. I gave the representative the model number of my heater and they said that yes, it would run just fine on #2 Diesel, as well as Winter Blend and #1(which really is Kerosine), as well as labeled Kerosine. Been running it on Diesel ever since with no problems and don't notice an odor problem, either. Also, since #2 has more BTUs than Kerosine, it puts out a little more heat as an added bonus to the much cheaper fuel cost!
 
Well I am trying to put it back together now.The injectors are in tubes in now I am working on the heat sheilds. the back will start in but the front wont. the tab is out against the manifold. I have tried to put a screw driver in there to pry it out but no luck. Any suggestions?
Thanks
 
Back
Top