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Engine Died w/o Warning... No Start

Chefboy

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Location
Kansas City
I'm stumped...
Burb started up just fine, and then the engine suddenly died after less than ¼ mile of travel (doing 30mph). I still had electrical, and the starter would crank, but it's like there's no fuel getting through. After I towed it home, I ran the DTC's and it gave me the following codes:
14 Low Coolant
34 Injection Timing Stepper Motor Fault
36 Injection Pulse Width Error (Response Time Long)
88 TDC Offset Error (It's had this since I replaced the IP a few months ago... Haven't taken the time to mess with resetting it - no scanner)
I haven't had any issues at all, but haven't run codes in a long time, so I don't know how long ago the codes were saved in the system.
Here's what I've done so far:
I cleared all of the codes (except 88)
I topped off the coolant
I replaced the fuel filter and water separator
I added a some Diesel Kleen to the tank and allowed it to circulate through the system (Air Dog running with key on)
I've got great fuel pressure to the IP with the Air Dog
Batteries are fully charged
Glow Plugs are in good working order
I tried starting the sub with 3 different PMD's, trying 3 different resistors in each PMD (#5, #7, #9)
(it currently has a #5 resistor in the PMD)
I tried starting it with the CPS unplugged (OS plugged in)
I tried starting it with the OS unplugged (CPS plugged in)
In every attempt, the starter just cranks, but it's like there's no fuel (but I know there's at least 15 gallons)
No smoke exits the exhaust whatsoever.

Sooooo, what do I do next? What am I missing?
 
Changing resistors at random will do nothing without going through a calibration sequence and in fact could set a code. Its not the PMD in my opinion.
Fix the lower number codes first,, in this case the low coolant sensor, sometime the higher ones will dissappear.
The next three codes up are related to timing and calibration. So i would get the pump timed or fixed.
Sounds like the injection pump, ecm, or too much play in the timing setup. Hard to say without knowing more but there is a lot of SSD in your setup!!
 
Clean the grounds, esp. the ones on the trans dipstick. I would check the fsos and ecm fuses, even when they are good there can still be poor contact on the fuse spades.
 
I would check for 1.2 volts DC on the green wire in the PMD harness while cranking the engine. That will tell you if the PCM is commanding fuel or not. I agree with also checking the shutoff solenoid and grounds, and make sure you aren't getting any air in the system.
 
Was it low on coolant? Do you have a low coolant light on anyway? One shorted wire can stop a the engine with non-related codes. YMMV.

Clear line off IP? The fuel filter swap is a slug of air. I ask if you have fuel flow out of the FFM water drain with the airdog on?

I would suspect the PMD extension harness.

Have a look at this and see what voltages you have going on. Quick and dirty is wiggle test the PMD extension in 10 second starter bursts. Easy on the starter or it's next to fry.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...ge-DS-6-5-DB2-5-7L-info-online-from-Stanadyne!

What sequence of lights do you get after they key was off 30 seconds or more and you turn it on? Specific to SES and Service Throttle Soon? Key must be off 30+ seconds or the lights are random.
 
Im not suprized at the IP codes if you never timed it on a scaner. Ground at dip stick are critical. BTW I have the GMTD scan tool software on my site.
 
Clean the grounds, esp. the ones on the trans dipstick. I would check the fsos and ecm fuses, even when they are good there can still be poor contact on the fuse spades.

I checked all of the fuses... all good.
My FSO has the plunger removed, so could it still be a factor?

Thanks for your help!
 
Was it low on coolant? Do you have a low coolant light on anyway? One shorted wire can stop a the engine with non-related codes. YMMV.
It was a little low on coolant, so I topped it off. The codes have been reset, and the low coolant light is not on.

Clear line off IP? The fuel filter swap is a slug of air. I ask if you have fuel flow out of the FFM water drain with the airdog on?
make sure you aren't getting any air in the system.

I have a clear hose on the return line, and all air bubbles have disappeared. The Airdog is excellent at removing the air from the fuel (I installed it after having major issues a couple years ago with my fuel delivery system). I'm getting plenty of fuel flow!
 
What sequence of lights do you get after they key was off 30 seconds or more and you turn it on? Specific to SES and Service Throttle Soon? Key must be off 30+ seconds or the lights are random.

SERVICE ENGINE SOON
stays on while cranking

SERVICE THROTTLE SOON
comes on for 1 second

BATTERY
stays on while cranking

GLOW PLUGS
on for 7 secs

WATER IN FUEL
stays on 1 second

CHECK GAUGES
goes of during cranking

OIL PRESSURE GAUGE
rises to 40 while cranking

AIR BAG
flashes 7x - comes on while cranking

BRAKE
on 4 secs

ANTILOCK
on 3 secs

LOW COOLANT
on 2 secs
 
Do the PMD testing. there should be links on my thread about the similar problem I had on the 1994 K3500 december 2013.

I would also pull the injection pump return line off and check for a plugged return line. It doesn't take long and you can eliminate a possible problem in a hurry.
 
Bulb check is ok, and ECM appears to have power.

Cummins Driver and I posted at the same time with similar advice. Check the voltages at the PMD to see what is going on. Of course the long and detailed version is in the link above.

have you cleaned the grounds? Grounds include the ground on top of the IP. If the plunger is missing in the FSO it can only leak on you to cause misery from now on.

What kind of past fuel problems did you have? I went with a better pump only to find a kinked hose later the better pump kept open for 3 months longer.
 
You said you try 3 PMDs, are you really sure those 3 PMDs are functional, tested working in your truck before you have trouble?
Or you just get it and the seller said they are tested?

As with any issues, make sure all the electrical components are tested even if they are new.
Load test the batteries one at a time.
All cables are good, etc.
 
Clean the grounds, esp. the ones on the trans dipstick. I would check the fsos and ecm fuses, even when they are good there can still be poor contact on the fuse spades.

Finally getting around to checking the grounds today.
 
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