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Engine and transmission issues 99 Suburban

juddspaintballs

my balls are painted!
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Location
West by God Virginia
I have a '99 Suburban 1500 with a 6.5 and almost 240k on the clock. I bought it approximately 12-15k miles ago, I don't remember.

It's also raining it's balls off outside and I don't have a garage to work in...

Yesterday someone crashed into my Camry on the way to work and it's not currently in driveable condition. My wife had to pick me up from work this morning in "her" Suburban. The trip from home to work is a little over and hour and mostly highway. Approximately 3/4 of the way back home (I was driving), the transmission shifted into 3rd gear for a hill, then refused to shift back into 4th. I tried shifting into 3rd and then back into OD, but it wouldn't drop in. I also shut down and restarted and it shifted fine 1-3 but would not drop into 4th. No codes were indicated on the dash. I parked it at home and checked the trans fluid. The level was good, the color was red, there was no froth, and it didn't smell burnt.

After letting it sit about 4 hours and deciding I didn't want to crawl around on the wet ground troubleshooting some electrical components, I decided to go to a transmission shop for a free diagnosis. I drove 30 minutes there down some back roads and a little highway. 4th gear worked just fine the entire way. While on the highway traveling about 60, the vehicle shuddered 2x about 5 miles apart, but my speed or RPM didn't change at all and it continued with no issue or codes.

I arrived at the transmission shop and the owner took it out for a test drive with me. I informed him that 4th had been working properly on the way over and about the shudder. He drove it a short distance and while we attempted to climb a hill, the engine cut out completely. He put it in neutral and it started up fine. He dropped it into OD and the vehicle went about 10 feet under it's own power before the engine cut out again. It started and idled fine again, so he tried 1st gear for the hill. It went about the same distance and then shut off again. We repeated the process a few times using OD and 1st and a combination of 4-Lo (don't ask me why) until the vehicle made it up the hill and all the way back to the shop...still with NO codes indicated on the dash. He said he couldn't test the transmission properly until the engine was working right, so I left scratching my head.

I drove it all the way home like I normally would. It had plenty of power, climbed several hills, and 4th gear worked the whole way home too. With no codes to read and two major components acting odd without being capable of repeating the problems, I have no idea where to start diagnosing these problems.

I appreciate the help. Bear in mind that it's raining hard out still and will be until Thursday. Also, until this is fixed, I have no vehicle for us to drive. I can make trips to the parts store on a motorcycle if necessary.
 
I'd start with cleaning the grounds especially the 3 at the pass rear head. Then I'd get a fuel pressure guage on it to check fuel pressure. It's probably the TCC locking and unlocking for the hill rather than a downshift and it is controlled by the PCM. Hence the start with grounds
 
Could you give me a better description of where these grounds are. I don't have a manual and I'm not horribly familiar with this vehicle yet.

I am leaning towards an electrical/sensor issue myself, but I want to see what others think too. Grounds make sense (electrical), but I'm not sure if this rainy weather plays into it. It's been raining heavily for months it seems like.
 
not sure on the 99s but the older ones are on the tranny dipstick tube and the bolt is screwed into a wet hole. Heath reccommends moving them to a dry hole ie the rear intake manifold bolt
 
Have a local autozone etc pull codes. The computer found an issue and limped the transmission by locking out 4th. As transmission blowing up does not affect emissions a SES light will NOT turn on for those transmission codes.
 
I got all of the grounds listed in the sticky about grounds cleaned up. I didn't test for resistance, but the grounding straps appeared to be in good shape.

I still have not been able to reproduce the issues I was having.

I'll swing by the store tonight if I have time to get the codes read to see if there are any that didn't illuminate the SES/CE light.
 
I think you have more than one issue.

The stalling issue sounds like PMD. Unfortunately, PMD issue can be weird so if you have a KNOWN WORKING PMD, I would try that first.

There is no doubt that the transmission may have problem, it may be related to PMD or not is more of the question.

I agree with checking the ground. Also make sure the Lift Pump is pumping fuel.
 
The lift pump was one of my first guesses when the engine stalled. It's less than 6 months old, but I tested that it was flowing by using the jumper wire at the plug up by the underhood fuse box. I opened the bleeder and it bled fuel on the ground just fine.


I hope it's not the PMD, but it very well could be. It's still in the stock location, but I did remove the engine cover immediately when I bought the vehicle.
 
to test to see if the lift pump is running while the vehicle is running, open the drain petcock. If the vehicle sputters and dies the lift pump is not opperating correctly. Try again with the LP direct wired.

Try a known to be good PMD. If you have an older Flight Systems - anything that isn't a Standyne order a new Standyne or new production Flight Systems. I get mine from pmdcable.com

Clean the grounds. I like to add grounds as I go. I add a ground to the battery box bolt to eliminate the need for the ground at the fender. From there I run to the frame by the starter. I have had to retap the frame on a couple of vehicles. I use an unbroken wire and most ofen solder the eyelets on. I use coppercoat antiseeze when assembling.
I also add a ground from the heater blower motor to the nearby dash bolt.
I add a ground from the battery to the back stud by the firewall. Wherev the 3 grounds are. I habve also added a ground to the fuel tank ground screw.
 
Didn't make it to Auto Zone last night.

The vehicle does not die when I open the drain petcock.

Grounds have already been cleaned. It wouldn't be too difficult for me to add extra grounds. I have a mess of 1/0 wire I picked up a few years ago and several ring terminals for it. I've always crimped and soldered my connections, even on wire that large. I'll add some more grounds later on.

A known good PMD is a lot of money to lay out right now, especially since neither of these problems has come up again. I'm not discounting the use of a new PMD, but for simply diagnostic purposes, my wallet is already hurting. If/when there's a problem again, I'll go down that route. I've been procrastinating the PMD relocation and it looks like I'm gonna hafto now.
 
Make sure you get ENOUGH fuel at the drain petcock. With engine off, it should be about 1liter/minute or you have a restriction or a bad lift pump.
 
The fact that the problem seems cured, leads me to believe that grounds and/or PMD are prime suspects. Don't forget to use Koppercoat and dialectric grease in the proper places.

nickle anti -seez will work but not as well IMHO
 
I'm starting to lean towards PMD right now.

Last night I drove 3 hours to pick up a trailer, and then about an hour into the trip back home with the 2700 lb trailer attached, 4th gear disappeared again. Once I made it to where I was taking the trailer, I turned my engine off and put the hood up and let it sit for about 20 minutes (to see if a cooling PMD would fix the issue). When I started again, 4th gear was magically working again.

Still been too lazy/busy to check codes...
 
Sorry to say but it sounds like new PMD time. Hopefully it's a cure-all. I've never heard of it affecting shift patterns though.

pmdcable.com and ask for a gray Standyne or a new production Flight Systems. Do not waste your money on anything else.
 
Could a failing PMD cause the vehicle to go into limp mode? That would explain no overdrive.

Failing PMD can cause weird symptoms. It is like you are having short circuit in the truck.
It can be limp mode, start - stall, no cruise, surging, etc. Ultimately, just no start.

As have been suggested, get another one as spare. Have it ready to be mounted.
It should be on a heatsink with the extension ready to go.

Leroy (PMDCable.com) can help you get the correct PMD setup.

As for trans issue, you may want to bring it to a good trans shop just to make sure it is not a real trans issue.
A good trans shop should have the proper diagnostic tool that can be plugged and monitored while driving the truck to see any issue.
 
I stopped and had Advance Auto check for any codes in the OBD II. The only code found was an old code for my turbo boost blah blah blah that I never cleared out. That issue has since been resolved with a turbo-master and the SES hasn't come on since.

Like I said above, I have a new flight systems PMD, heat sink, and cable coming my way. I'll change them out and if you don't hear from me again, then that fixed the problem.
 
I might not stay and play a whole lot, but I do lurk. I'll let you know how things work out I suppose. It should be here in a couple days. Hope everything works ok tomorrow...I have to tow another 2700 lb trailer a mere 22 miles.
 
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