Big T
Well-Known Member
The energy suspension kits say that you must re-use all hardware in their kits. So does that mean you must reuse the inner sleeve from the existing bushing?
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Energy Suspension Upper Control Arm Bushings
- Thread starter Big T
- Start date
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
If I remember correctly yes, however you can measure the ID opening of the bushing and the OD of the sleeve to be sure.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Have no idea how you'd get the existing busing out of the sleeve. Sounds like a real PITA. Guess I'll just buy the Moog replacements.
snarl95
Well-Known Member
Torch the rubber out.
It will press right out no trouble...
Yes, buy the Moog replacements for the inner and outer shell parts as in my case the old inner bushing sleeves were worn beyond reuse. They are cheap enough... A press works. Oh "hell yes!" it a royal PIA, but, the difference in stability on Energy Suspension vs. wandering all over than damn place on rubber is well worth the extra trouble. Haven't tried the torch idea (and would next time) and don't have a press so not fun hammering them out by hand. The air hammer works better...
Someone at Energy Suspension needs to start marketing "drop in" parts without the horses#it missing stuff so reuse the old stuff. It's cheaper from my and or shop time not to have to reuse these difficult to get out items even if they cost even more than they do now. China can make the metal parts, why can't Energy Suspension? Yes I refer to the missing metal engine mounts as well. (At least the engine mounts have the metal bushings included in the center.)
Big T
Well-Known Member
Energy Suspension bushings are $54 and the Moogs are $48 at Rockauto. So I would double my cost to do this. Worn bushings would not cause wandering; a worn steering box does. Bushings affect camber.
Ultimately the last thing I replaced was the shot rag joint at the steering shaft to box to stop wandering. But on two separate rides the energy suspension firmed up the squishy feel and handling. Looking through the pile of receipts I opted for the cheap Communist bushings to rip the steel out of so this is why I recall them being inexpensive to do so... $800 of Moog and assorted Energy Suspension in the front end plus the ~$250 aftermarket half shaft.
These Energy bushings you are looking at, are they the poly/hard type??
The shop I work in won't use them in builds anymore due to the "squeak" after a little time...
The shop I work in won't use them in builds anymore due to the "squeak" after a little time...
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Don't they make black ones that aren't supposed to squeak?
Big T
Well-Known Member
The black ones are supposedly infused with graphite, but they still squeak per Internet reviews. I think I'll just put in some Moogs.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
The black ones are graphite impregnated last I had checked they are all I ever used for control arms 'no squeaks.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
If you can hear your bushings, you really need to start listening to better music. Then you'll turn it up more and POOF problem solved.
Big T
Well-Known Member
The upper bushings have an outer metal sleeve shaped like a cup. Not sure how you get it out. I've tried the torch thing, but with mapp gas. I don't have a welding torch.
Lets see... IF I can hear a squeak over the loud exhaust, IDI rattle, hearing loss, and working radio I have I am left wondering if it's the truck or me?
Seriously I use the ES black and no squeaks from them to report. I did use lots of the supplied white lube during assembly. I would hunt them down if I had any considering 20+ years old and 1/4 million+ miles (beat like a redheaded stepchild as rode hard put away wet doesn't do the hard work abuse it's seen any justice) there be a range of NVH creaks, squeaks, groans, that's just "normal" esp. the 4.10 diff wine around 45MPH.
I used a slightly smaller then the outer shell (notably large) socket and a huge C Clamp to drive the bushing rubber out. Of course I had a larger socket to drive the bushing rubber into on the other end. AKA a press like setup. The sledge hammer, I recall now, was used to drive rivets out of the lower ball joints - Never doing that job again as I have and will hire it out.
Seriously I use the ES black and no squeaks from them to report. I did use lots of the supplied white lube during assembly. I would hunt them down if I had any considering 20+ years old and 1/4 million+ miles (beat like a redheaded stepchild as rode hard put away wet doesn't do the hard work abuse it's seen any justice) there be a range of NVH creaks, squeaks, groans, that's just "normal" esp. the 4.10 diff wine around 45MPH.
I used a slightly smaller then the outer shell (notably large) socket and a huge C Clamp to drive the bushing rubber out. Of course I had a larger socket to drive the bushing rubber into on the other end. AKA a press like setup. The sledge hammer, I recall now, was used to drive rivets out of the lower ball joints - Never doing that job again as I have and will hire it out.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Rockauto has the ES for $54. They also have some economy uppers for $2.45 each. The existing Moog's were installed 50K miles and 5 years ago. They're cracked and there is slight play on the DS rear inside the metal tube in the bushing, so that must be worn.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Found cheaper Moogs on rockuto. I guess the problem solver models were the ones I priced at $48. I ordered the cheaper Moogs plus the ES kit in the black graphite. Apparently that was the last set of the ES black graphite as now all they show is red.
Please explain how the hell I'll get the rubber out of the metal without a welding torch?
Please explain how the hell I'll get the rubber out of the metal without a welding torch?
Last edited:
schiker
Well-Known Member
Can you drill some of it out? Small drill and swiss cheese it so it can squeeze down easier??? piece of short pipe, washers, threaded rod long bolt / nuts and pull it out with a screw pulling action inverse of a press.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Clearly I was working too hard last time I did mine on my own ~7 years ago.
Here is a nice write up and also has a video. This includes an install procedure.
http://www.aftermarketsuspensionparts.com/blog/how-to-burn-out-suspension-bushings-the-right-way/
Here is another video of how easy it should be with a regular plumbing propane or MAPP gas torch.
Here is a nice write up and also has a video. This includes an install procedure.
http://www.aftermarketsuspensionparts.com/blog/how-to-burn-out-suspension-bushings-the-right-way/
Here is another video of how easy it should be with a regular plumbing propane or MAPP gas torch.