Dually Drums... Quick question...

[Matt Bachand]

Been so long since I took them off last, and all rusted together I forget.

Do I have to undo the 8 bolts and slide out the axle in order to remove the drum?

I hear a grinding noise type sound and want to take a PEEKABOO inside... Thanks...



PEEKABOO! Brain fart...

PEEKABOO!:iamwithstupid:

 

[Matt Bachand]

PEEKABOO!

 

[saratoga]

Yup. You have to take the axle shaft out, pull the retaining clip and the spindle nut to get the drum and hub off.

Fair warning: That SOB is hhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeavy!

 

[Acesneights1]

Hope you don't need drums. That sucks. Gotta beat all the studs out and then drive them back in.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Yeah... They looked ok last time when I did the shoes, but that was 20k miles ago or so... ORiginals of course. hopefully just a shoe.

Its not a bad noise, but its there, and goes AWAY when the brake is applied.

Yep, she's a big boy.

Thanks guys. Off to wallyworld to get some Mobil-1. A little TLC for the pig this weekend. She's been good to me, time to be good to her.







PEEKABOO!

 

[Matt Bachand]

Hope you don't need drums. That sucks. Gotta beat all the studs out and then drive them back in.

You still have those rubbers or did you toss them?

 

[Acesneights1]

still got em.

 

[WarWagon]

Have a bucket for the oil that will drain out.

Remove the bolts for the axle. Take a sledge hammer and one good whack driving the axle into the differential should bounce it loose. Watched a pro, dad, do this...

Look for a snap ring type of deal retaining a key locking the retaining nut. (Your year may vary.) Remove the snap ring and then remove the key. Then the nut. Special tool to remove and install this nut that Napa has.

New seals and then grease the bearings so they live long enough to see oil. Some fill the diff and then park the truck on a slope so oil will travel the diff tube to the bearings.

I recall it was torque the nut to 50 Ft Lbs and then back off 1/4 turn. Silicone will seal the axles.

 

[Acesneights1]

I don't beleive the GM's have the lock wedges. I have to do that on my big trucks. It sucks.

 

[saratoga]

My 97 had the keys.
I've still got that giant socket with the teeth I bought for that project (and used exactly once).

IIRC the spindle nut gets torqued to 10ft/lb while turning the drum forwards, backed off and then hand tightened. Check the manual- don't take my word for it.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Well I feel no oddness while turning by hand, put it in gear, and rode the brake (and e-brake) with tire off and felt nothing abnormal. I'll adjust it up and see what comes of it tomorrow. I need to do a full OIl change and greasejob (got a tube of Lucas' Sticky red grease to try out).. gonna do that tomorrow, I'll jack up all tires, and take my time and look everything over.

Havn't bonded with the 'down there' side of my rig since I moved a few months ago. Need to spend some time under there daydreaming with innovation and pipe dreams.

Must take care of the girl who takes care of me.

I love my Chevy Diesel.

 

[WarWagon]

Look at the front pads. The squealers shut up with brake application.
Torque and other movement from brake application can change the drive line angles and noise. Suggest a close look at u-joints.

Springs rust through and you may have a part being ground up in the drums. I would look there last due to the fun it takes to get there...

 

[Matt Bachand]

Look at the front pads. The squealers shut up with brake application.
Torque and other movement from brake application can change the drive line angles and noise. Suggest a close look at u-joints.

Springs rust through and you may have a part being ground up in the drums. I would look there last due to the fun it takes to get there...

Thanks man. I agree.

Not only are the drums the worst to get there, I didn't turn them last time I had them off, and there is a groove of crap material which makes sliding them off next to impossible. Last time i had them off I had to collapse the shoes n springs assembly inside to get them off, then I realized the groove was there.

Being a weekend project and needing the truck Monday I put them back on without turning with the new shoes.

I can feel the grind in the pedal only when I'm about to stop, and could hear something 99% sure it was coming from the rear. Thought it was Drivers side, but of course thats where my head is closest to when driving.

Just finished greasing everything with the oil change, I'll adjust the rears up and take it for a spin to fuel up and see where I'm at.

I will give the fronts a good inspection today also. Man I hate drum brakes...... Always have, always will.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Look at the front pads. The squealers shut up with brake application.
Torque and other movement from brake application can change the drive line angles and noise. Suggest a close look at u-joints.

Springs rust through and you may have a part being ground up in the drums. I would look there last due to the fun it takes to get there...

Good call on the front pads bro!

Probably the best news of the entire day. Problem all along was the front Pass Side Pad, (Not the Rear Drivers Side Drum!)...

Installed a Fresh set of Ceramic Napa Ultra Premium Pads, adjusted the rear brakes, greased, and Mobil-1 Oil change. Girl is back up to par! Had to sink a day full of hours into her, but she makes the bacon, have to take care of the pig!