drain coolant to remove intake?

[mitchedo]

There are two bolts through the intake manifold into each head that go into the water jackets. If I remove the intake manifold with a full cooling system, will coolant come out those holes? I don't want to make a mess, and I don't want to lose any brand new coolant.

I have a significant oil leak out the valve cover on the right side (of course it's the right side). It looks like I missed a spot with the sealant. At any rate, I have to pull the valve cover. :mad2:

I was getting so close to getting this thing on the road.

On the plus side, the engine runs much quieter than it did before, without any of that hint of knocking I heard before I tore it down. It seems to run much smoother too. Perhaps it's the balance job; perhaps it's the Fluidampr. ...maybe both.

 

[NVW]

I never lost any coolant when I removed my intake.

Leo

 

[ak diesel driver]

I balanced a 6.2 once and even the guy I built it for commented on how smooth it ran.

 

[Burning oil]

Intake bolts don't run into any water jackets so you will be fine to remove it. Just make sure you don't remove the xover or the block off plates on the rear and you will be fine.
I tried to remove the GP controller after I had the manifold off and instead of just the nuts coming off the whole bolt came off and water filled up the rear cylinder. I just removed the GP and cranked the engine to blow out the water then spayed some WD40 in there and cranked it some more. Worked just fine after that.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

upon reomval of my intake manifold the only coolant I lost was what was in the upper radiator hose. Other than that I lost nothing else.

 

[mitchedo]

Intake bolts don't run into any water jackets so you will be fine to remove it. Just make sure you don't remove the xover or the block off plates on the rear and you will be fine.
I tried to remove the GP controller after I had the manifold off and instead of just the nuts coming off the whole bolt came off and water filled up the rear cylinder. I just removed the GP and cranked the engine to blow out the water then spayed some WD40 in there and cranked it some more. Worked just fine after that.

Don't the top two bolts on each head go into the water jacket? It seems like my shop manual says to seal them with teflon paste; the others get Loctite.

I didn't drain the coolant, and no water leaked out. I'm hoping I got the valve cover sealed this time.

 

[bison]

these bolt holes are open to the valve area,sealant on the bolts prevents oil seeping up

 

[Burning oil]

Don't the top two bolts on each head go into the water jacket? It seems like my shop manual says to seal them with teflon paste; the others get Loctite.

I didn't drain the coolant, and no water leaked out. I'm hoping I got the valve cover sealed this time.

What bison said.
Just remove intake bolts and you are good to go. Alittle sealant on the threads will help, but IMO I would not use Loctite on them, No need for it.

 

[Matt Bachand]

these bolt holes are open to the valve area,sealant on the bolts prevents oil seeping up

I didn't use any sealant when putting my intakes back on on the bolts, you think I'm drawing some oil in there? My intake did look covered in oil, just assumed it was CDR related.

 

[bison]

No, you wont be drawing oil in the intake, just leaking past the bolt heads and making a mess as you found out.