Door lock pin backing plate

[Big T]

I went to install a new door lock pin on the ‘94 Suburban. Undid the pin and the backing plate dropped down into the door pillar. Shouldn’t that plate be spot welded in place?

I was able to fish the plate out with a mechanic’s magnet. I’ve got it mostly held in place with a pair of needle nose vice grips. Waiting for a 2nd set of hands (son) to thread in the pin from the other side of the door. Should be less than 5 minute job.

 

[ak diesel driver]

if it was welded it wouldn't be adjustable

 

[Big T]

if it was welded it wouldn't be adjustable

I got it figured out on the one that dropped. I slid a coat hanger through the plate hole and the hole in the door pillar. Held the plate in place with right hand. Pulled the coat hanger out and threaded the door pin in doing a reach around with the left hand.

On the passenger side I held the plate in place while I removed the door pin, then threaded in the new one.

Will have to assess how to do the rear doors. Not sure I have access to hold the plate in place while removing the pin.

P.S. base on fit of the door pin in the pillar hole, there is minimal to no adjustment.

 

[dbrannon79]

I can't remember how large the plate is, but I seem to recall someone mentioning using a couple of rare earth magnets to hold it in place while the pin is changed.

I used to scrap old computer hard drives for those magnets. had quite a large collection of them at one time.

 

[Big T]

I can't remember how large the plate is, but I seem to recall someone mentioning using a couple of rare earth magnets to hold it in place while the pin is changed.

I used to scrap old computer hard drives for those magnets. had quite a large collection of them at one time.

I checked the rear ones and there is access once the interior panel covering the rear fender well is removed. I will deal with later when I’m replacing the rusty lower quarter panel section.

 

[Big T]

Think I got the washer flipped^^^on the driver’s side.