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Door Actuators

Big T

Well-Known Member
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Location
Fullerton, CA
I've lost the function of the door actuators. I can hear clicks on some of the doors, but the drivers door no longer works.

I lost the switch on the passenger side of the dash which controls interior lights. I have a replacement that I will install. Does that switch circuit impact the door actuators?

I bought a new inside door handle and door latch for the driver's side and intend to install. Should I just replace the actuator at the same time? If so, what brand should I buy? There are a number of them listed at Rockauto with brands like Airtex Wells at half the cost of AC Delco.
 
No clue if 2 circuits tied together.

If you determine the lock actuator is faulty, then yes do it at same time door panel is off for other repairs.

I hate airtex. Huge failure rate in everything I have delt with them from. I will not use them unless no alternative is available.

The AC Delco lasted 18 years, I doubt the airtex would last 5 & Wouldn’t be surprised if it died at 18 months.
 
Oh, there is a trick you can try:
Remove the actuator from your door. Take the electric motor of the actuator. Use a 9v battery or jumper wires from rig and spin the motor for a few minutes. Then reverse polarity and run a few minutes.

The motors only cycle one or two revolutions every time they are used. The brushes in the motor don’t wear well that way. Spinning the motor without load under power can reseat the brushes and solve the issue. Doesn’t always work, but I have tried 9 times since heard it and 8 worked.
 
I've lost the function of the door actuators. I can hear clicks on some of the doors, but the drivers door no longer works.

I lost the switch on the passenger side of the dash which controls interior lights. I have a replacement that I will install. Does that switch circuit impact the door actuators?

I bought a new inside door handle and door latch for the driver's side and intend to install. Should I just replace the actuator at the same time? If so, what brand should I buy? There are a number of them listed at Rockauto with brands like Airtex Wells at half the cost of AC Delco.

Question; when this happens do your locks stay locked and unable to open them manually? I have developed this issue more than once with my 99 Burb and have to pop off the door panels to get the door open. I suspect if I ever had to exit quickly I'm SOL.
 
Question; when this happens do your locks stay locked and unable to open them manually? I have developed this issue more than once with my 99 Burb and have to pop off the door panels to get the door open. I suspect if I ever had to exit quickly I'm SOL.

Right now I'm getting clicks at most doors, but no locking. I sometimes get a feint horn.

My DS inside door handle is bent.....again. This is due to the door latch hanging up on the pin. The outside door handle is loose. I'm waiting for the new actuator before tearing into the job.

I did replace the switch on the PS side of the dash. Nothing happened. No interior lights.
 
Are your hinge pins ok? Usually they wear and the door sags causing problems first. Open the door and try lifting the end up and releasing. Free play will be the hinge pins. If there is play, swap them before messing with latches.

Just replaced them. Passenger side stopped rattling; Driver's side rattles less. It sticks trying to open it.
 
I took the door panels off on my crew cab, lubed the mechanisms real good and the locks have been working okay ever since.
I think what @Will L. said might be a very good option. Wish I`d have knowed that when I had My doors apart.
there still is a bit of a problem with te actuators, I get one shot at locking or unlocking the doors, not a problem for Me but for the wifey.
If the unlock button is pushed to the lock position when trying to unlock the doors, it is all over. It seems there is not enough current to take another try at it.
I tried running a swparate ground wire to the one door but still made no difference.
after what will L wrote, I now believe it is from the brushes not making proper contact. I did not know these were actual electric motors. I always though they were solenoids.
And at what @ak diesel driver said, if they were only easier to get to. LOL
 
I have done it on multiple vehicles, and each one I have taken apart they were motors not solenoids. That said, I haven’t done a gmt400. I ASSUME they are, so it is possible the trick wont work here.
 
I have done it on multiple vehicles, and each one I have taken apart they were motors not solenoids. That said, I haven’t done a gmt400. I ASSUME they are, so it is possible the trick wont work here.
I dont know too.
When the lock/unlock button is pushed, these things just pop, not a smooth motor type of an experience. LOL
 
I always like to finish my threads with a definitive diagnosis and solution. In my case, the DS door actuator was clicking and horn would go off, but the lock would not unlock. There was too much resistance on the actuator rod for the actuator to fully push/pull. When I removed the rod from the from clip which it slides through, the actuator readily opens and closes the lock. It was not clear whether the resistance was due to a bent rod, but no amount of adjustment could correct the problem, so I completed the rest of the install without the actuator rod in the clip.

Although I replaced the actuator, the original was performing the same.

So if you have this situation of the actuators clicking, but not opening and closing the locks, the actuators are still working, but there’s resistance that they cannot overcome that needs to be addressed.

New door latches cleaned up all door rattles not addressed by new hinge pins and bushings. This is the quietest the truck has been since I’ve owned it.
 
Mighty good write up BigT, thank You for taking the time to post in all of Your findings.
I will definitely be looking into the whys of My door lock actuators.
Mine does not have the key fob to unlock, I wish it did, I think it is about the only option missing on this truck.
 
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