Do I have Duo-Servo or Leading/Trailing drum brakes?? How to adjust? One is dragging

[mgray]

In an attempt to fix my constantly leaking axle seals once and for all, I had a different shop install sleeves and new seals. Seems they didn't adjust the brakes(although they tightened up my e-brake as I requested) when they were done, as I can smell a hot wheel, and the drum is really hot to the touch(backing plate is cool). It's only the drivers side rear wheel. The passenger side is cool. So I assume the drivers side just needs to be let off a bit? As it's a long drive back to the shop where I had the work done, and the fact that this should be a simple adjustment, I'm going to try it myself. There is only a very slight odor of gear oil, so hopefully the seal has survived some very hot miles!

I have the factory shop manual for my truck, but it has 2 sections for rear brakes; leading/trailing drums, and Duo-Servo drum brakes. They have different adjustment procedures and values, so I need to know what type I have.

Just for reference I'll include the procedures for each type(differences shown in bold);

Leading/Trailing Drum Brakes:

1) Turn the adjusting screw until the wheel can just be turned by hand
*The brake drag should be equal at both wheels
2) Back off the adjusting screw 20 notches
*Brakes should have no drag after the adjusting screw is backed off about 10 notches.

Duo-Servo Drum Brakes:

1) Turn adjusting screw until the wheel can just be turned by hand.
*The brake drag should be equal at both wheels
3) Back off the adjusting screw 33 notches
*Brakes should have no drag after the screw has been backed off about 15 notches

 

[benjammin]

Usually the leading/trailing brakes are only on the lightest GVW 1500 pickups. The difference is that they do not float at the bottom; there is a plate riveted to the backing plate that retains the bottom of the shoes instead of the normal adjuster/star wheel assembly.
Yours will be duo-servo, they can be adjusted through an access slot in the backing plate at the bottom- you push the lever off the star wheel and turn the wheel to adjust (use 2 flat screwdrivers or an adjusting tool if you have one). Put rubber plugs in the backing plate slots when you're done to keep out water and dirt.

 

[mgray]

Ok, so I pushed the lever(after trying to pry the other lever that is at the rear of the adjuster which is atached to the spring that run on top of the adjuster) and turned the star down, but I didn't hear any clicks, so it was hard to know how many "notches" I backed it off. I backed off enough that the wheels now spin nice and free.

But since they are self adjusting, if I adjusted them too loose, they should adjust themselves properly after going into reverse a few times right?

Is there anything bad about adjusting them too loose?

 

[benjammin]

Ok, so I pushed the lever(after trying to pry the other lever that is at the rear of the adjuster which is atached to the spring that run on top of the adjuster) and turned the star down, but I didn't hear any clicks, so it was hard to know how many "notches" I backed it off. I backed off enough that the wheels now spin nice and free.

But since they are self adjusting, if I adjusted them too loose, they should adjust themselves properly after going into reverse a few times right?

Is there anything bad about adjusting them too loose?

You won't hear any clicks with the lever up- it makes the noise.

Generally most guys will adjust until there is a slight drag, then back off a certain number of teeth until you can't hear the shoes touch, then do the other side the same way. Adjusting too loose is ok (up to a point); the brake pedal will travel further than normal. If they were WAY too loose, one of the wheel cylinder pistons could pop out or jam when they try to extend too far.
Most self adjusters don't work the greatest unless they've been freshly cleaned and lubed.