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disc brake modification

R

Rodd

Recruit
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Location
Antelope, CA
The previous owner of my truck had an after market disc brake setup put on my burb. Are the pads the same as the front?

Thanks!
 
I took the pad's in and it is a common one. There are over 250 vehicles that use the same pads from 1967 - 2002. Any way I am using my c-clamp to try and compress the caliper but it isn't budging. I just went to get my camer to take a picture and the battery is dead. So let me explain what it looks like. The piston isn't hollow like the front. It is flat w/ like a cover. It also has a nut on the back side of it in the center holding on a metal bracket w/ a spring connected to it. I am thinking I need to take the bracket and spring off to get it to compress. Am I right?

Thanks!
 
I got it figured out. The nut has to come off in order for the caliper to colapse.

Now the next problem. The passenger rear had no issues. The driver side however has a lot of oil and grime on it. I noticed it smoking after I stopped yesterday. The caliper looks good and is dry not oily/grimey. The face of the roter is oily/grimey and the back side is clean. I'm just wondering if it is the bearings??? There are some holes that allow me to see into the hub and it is greasy in there. Anyone experience this?
 
There are 8 bolts on the face of the hub/drive shaft. I removed them and about 3-4 ounces of oil came out. I am assuming it is from the rear differencial. Is this normal? There wasn't much but I wonder if the oil was getting out of there onto the axel somewhere?
 
Someone on the other site as well as the guy at the parts store (take it for what it's worth) said it is probably the seal. Where is the seal?
 
Sounds like you have a full floating rear so unbolt the axle and pull it out and the seal should be in the end of the rear end housing.

Ryan
 
Is the seal on the end of the drive shaft? Here is a photo.

Hub.jpg
 
I found the seal on the back side of the roter. Since I am replacing the seal I should probably replace the bearings as well.
 
On my truck the caliper was sticking a little. When I had it on the lift I used an infared temp sensor and my drivers side rear was 270*F and the pass side was 160*F. My drivers side seal went bad. My ex has the same truck as me but gas, and her ebrake shoes were sticking and her seal went bad too. I suspect that it was the excess heat caused by sticking brakes that took out the seals. Maybe that was the cause on yours too? If so, you better find out what caused the sticking. In my case, the place I bought it from had the rear brakes done and they used aftermarket pads. The pads didn't fit the calipers just right, the notches were too tight so they were hanging up. They just needed a little grinder work but everything was already shot. That's just to get me by until I get new rotors, pads, shoes and a seal.
 
Just replaced seal and brakes. All back together. Now I can't find the diff fill or drain plugs. Where are they. I looked on the front, back, top, and bottom and I can't see it anywhere.
 
Must be there... usually a square (1/2 drive ratchet) somewhere a little over half way up. Could be all gunked over and looks flat... clean her up, its there.
 
It may be full of grease and dirt. Pick around with a small screwdriver on the passenger side a little over half way up the differential, itself.
 
I found it. It is facing the passenger side. It is a 3/8" square. Unfortunately I tried to get it off and it stripped. What now?
 
Stripped, as in rounded on the inside?

Can you fit a chisel or another flat blade type of tool in on opposite corners (if there are any type of corners left) and turn it that way? Are there any threads exposed outside the housing that you can get ahold of with vise grips? An easy out might work, too. Snap-on makes a set that looks like a twisted square piece of stock. That might work best if you find one to fit.
 
if you get a left handed drill bit, and start drilling into it, a lot of times the drill bit will bind enough to spin it out. an extractor ( easy out) would work if you can find one big enough...
 
94K30 said:
if you get a left handed drill bit, and start drilling into it, a lot of times the drill bit will bind enough to spin it out. an extractor ( easy out) would work if you can find one big enough...
Click to expand...
That's a good idea too, but I would save that for a last resort also. You probably don't want to have to take the cover off to clean out debris at this point. The welding trick works awesome. It also heats up the plug,broken stud, or whatever else you're trying to get out. I'm not saying it's a better idea, but it works really good and I'm always looking for an excuse to do it.
 
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