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Did some PM today

saratoga

saratoga

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Changed the oil, trans filter, aux fuel filter, and cleaned out the intake.

If you've still got an intact EGR and PCV, This would be a good idea to check. PCV re-route is now next on the list for me since there was about a 1/4" of gooey crud built up in the intake where the EGR blows in at. 57,000 miles BTW. Taking pictures of an oil change is kind of a PITA.

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Here's the nasty intake before I cleaned it out...

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More pics...

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And all back together after a couple of hours...
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Thats pretty nasty. Now you have my attention I'm at 65K mine most likely does not look any better. How many gaskets did you have to replace? Project for the spring I guess.
 
The gaskets don't look like they'd need to be replaced, Bill. They are basically a flat piece of stainless steel that does not crush or deform and have to be replaced from what I can tell. I cleaned and re-used them. There's one at each port on the EGR valve, one on the engine side of the intake and one on either side of the grid heater.


One word of caution- disconnect the batterieS before doing this. The grid heater has a jumbo red cable bolted to a lug terminal that's hot all the time.
 
Guess I should add that and an egr block off to my growing mental list of things to do at 100,000 miles. Just turned 87k this AM so it'll be this summer. One thing that has worked well for me is since I drive 60 mi one way to work I get a good opportunity to do a daily 'cleanout' run when I exit I 80. So every 120 miles I hit it hard and get a good cloud of soot out of it. Wanted to see just how well it would do 100% stock for 100k. Knock on wood, this truck has been perfect except fuel gel once and lower trans cooler line replace at 82k.
 
It seems to have a little more pep now, but that may be related to the fuel filter that needed to be changed. The shifting is back to normal. I'm definitely going to find somewhere to get a blocker plate from and re-route the PCV system. The soot mixed with the oil makes a nasty, gooey mess. You should see the pile of crud I scraped out of it.

If you take yours apart, make sure to push the plastic pipe that comes from the IC completely onto the cast intake and get the retaining wire seated. It goes BOOM Hissssssssssss otherwise. :eek:):h
 
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Wow that look familiar... I just had mine apart too. mine was just as bad, if not worse. Did you not have you intercooler pipe on correctly when you put it back together?
 
Grady, what did you clean the rest of the intake with? Could you use brake kleen or something like that? Gun scrubber? Also, about how long did it take for you to do that? Is it a big job?
 
It's not that hard to do; I didn't bust my knuckes on anything and that's usually a good indicator of when something is beyond the limited scope of my tools.

You have to get the wire harness that is attached to the top of the intake out of the way, and in order to do that the turbo inlet has to come off.

Unplug:
Batteries
MAF sensor
MAP sensor
Grid heater & power supply cable
Alternator

Remove:
Airbox and flexible intake tube
3 torx bolts holding wire harness to cast alum intake
Loosen clamp and remove the plastic turbo inlet (PCV is-or was- also attached)
Wire retainer holding tube from intercooler to intake
Bolt holding intake to bracket by serpentine belt tensioner pulley
Bolt holding MAP sensor and grid heater harness to intake
6 bolts holding the intake to the EGR valve and engine (careful not to drop them)

Push the wire harness back to pull the intake straight off the top of the engine.
There are 2 12 mm bolts and 2 4 mm(?) allen head bolts sandwiching the grid heater to the two halves of the intake. I took this apart on the workbench after the intake was off the engine. I used carb cleaner, a screwdriver and a toothbrush to clean the gunk out of the intake. A shop vac and a wire brush cleaned out the engine and EGR valve to keep the soot from going inside the engine. Clean it all up and re-assemble. I re-assembled the grid heater and two halves of the intake before putting it back on the engine.

It took me probably 1-1.5 hours to do the intake part only.
 
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Thank god you made this thread, I was just about to ask how hard it is to take off the intake manifold. My intake will be coming off at 50k, and I need to reroute my PCV too..
 
It sounds like this is a common practice that everybody has done or plans on doing, but after looking at two different threads on this subject It still is not clear to me in regards to error codes and sealing. So maybe one of you who has actually blocked the EGR port could answer a few simple questions

1. Are there no related computer issues by preforming this mod. And if there is how do you get around it.
2.which one of the two ports shown gets blocked and how do you space the rest of the manifold equally to ensure a proper seal?
3. Where would you re-route your PCV and what is involved in that.

Thanks for your clarification on the subject.
 
First Off: Welcome to the Forum! With that said, if you block your EGR Valve, you will need to get the finger stick that goes along with that, or use a tuner to shut off the EGR valve or else you will get codes.

The ports do not get blocked. The EGR gets blocked at the passenger side of the motor next to the firewall.

The PCV re-route is really just a PCV vent into the air from each side of the motor by using tubing. It gets routed away from the turbo boot. If you do not re-route it, you get the oil dripping from the blue turbo boot, and could get oil into the turbo.

Please take the time to fill out your sig, so the members know which year Duramax you have. It helps out greatly.
 
RI
Thanks for the clarification, would it make sense to route the PCV to the exhaust similar to what you would do for crankcase ventilation (blow-by) on an old-school gas engine, using a check valve.
Who is a supplier for the fingerstick that you have mentioned?
Thanks again,


07 LBZ Classic
 
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