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Devils Own Alcohol Injection

chrisk, i would not buy the one posted in your link. when i was out and about emailing persons for their opinions i was pretty much advised go progressive controller, not a boost switch or hobbs switch. even with progressive my issue was sometimes it worked great but other times not. i still need to check my pyro for volts. the progressive is 0-5 volt based. map sensor is 0-5 volts and so that is why it works. more boost = more spray. problem was boost is not consistent where egt's hopefully will be. ie. higher egt's more spray. i guess my easy way to sum it up is more boost will give more spray but by the same token more boost will also lower egt's. towing on a flat stretch at 60mph will give me 4-5lbs boost, however loaded with the same speeds will net me 7-8 and doesn't take much foot pressure to hit 14lbs. so even though i don't need spray it'll come on anyway. i'm hoping once i egt base it i will have spray come on at 900 and ramp up as my egt climbs slowing the egt climb at the same time. here is a link to the kit i bought. http://www.alcohol-injection.com/water-injection-kits-1/universal-19/diesel-universal-stage-2-63.html

i see they now have an egt based system. as near as i can tell they are identical kits with different faceplates.
hope this helps. Ed
 
Matt Bachand said:
May be different for on the drag strip where EGT's and boost will both be skyrocketed.
Click to expand...
maybe so, in that case you would not need a progressive controller. all you would need is a push button kinda switch. full spray or no spray. no need for boost or egt based controllers. thing is some say they feel a difference in power. i don't. i know it knocks the egts down as i have watched it happen on my egt gauge. mind you all i ever ran was mostly a water mix. right now the tank has window washer in it as i did not want to freeze the lines. Ed
 
I got there EGT based kit for Christmas(wicked excited about it) but I have not installed it yet. I spent a month or 2 researching kits and I liked what they had to offer. If I ever get time to install it I will let you know how it works out.
 
I may just make my own system then....thanks for the feedback....and stay tuned for a DIY meth injection thread....
 
OMG - the Flatland Fireball is gonna add alcohol to the mix...

The scariest phrase you'll ever hear in Saskatchewan is:

"Hey... hold my beer and watch this..." :D:D:D
 
I already did destrutive testing with a Snow WMI kit on my truck. I know the limits now and Chris has most of the info. It should be easy and safe for him to throw a kit together. I have a freind that built his own kit on a 350 drag truck, with two GM-8 snails pushing air. It works fine, and is made mostly out of parts from Peavey Mart and the Coop ag store.

Now that I think of it there is a chance that you guys have seen him racing in Stoon. Flat black late 70's pickup with rollers under the bed. He usually makes a couple trips to SIR a year, in between the races here in Speedy.
 

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Because our 6.5s dont use a lot of boost or create a whole lot of horsepower shouldnt need a big nozzle. Like a single 300cc nozzle would be plenty, or a couple smaller ones will help atomize it best. And you wouldnt want more than 100psi pump if running a nozzle that big.

I havent gotten mine in yet either, but getting parts together making my own with two stages on just two Hobbs switches. And I got some parts for propane too. Going to put both on in a couple months. Both will be staged with the same Hobbs switches, unless I find a reasonable progressive mechanical regulator for the propane.

I plan to run mostly water though, not much alcohol.
 
Jason and I will be working together to piece a kit out of parts from local parts stores....

Gonna be interesting....and if it blows up - we will know to back off the settings a touch...
 
just dont put one of those 150psi pumps on it, because although it says 150psi, they do more than that, they just cut out at 150. Meaning, it will maintain 150 even if you have a 300cc nozzle, even though there is like a 150psi loss out of a 300cc nozzle. I think that would be the pumps limit though, about double its rated amount at 14V.

Therefore youd have 150psi behind it, and its rated at 300cc at 100psi, so its pushing more than that, atomizing much better though.

Even if you have 300hp, if using 300cc nozzle with 100psi behing it, you would have about 25% water to fuel (not air) mix by mass (not volume), which is a high limit. Thats assuming youre under load with a pretty low air to fuel ratio of like 12:1, meaning youre dumping in a lot of fuel, and probably making smoke. If normally driving our air to fuel ratio is usually much higher, the greater amount of air providing more oxygen to complete the combustion of our fuel and not making smoke. therefore in normal driving the water to fuel mix will be greater unless you throttle it back based on load/boost.

obviously by adding alcohol you are adding fuel too, so then you can push some more fluid in. The more you can atomize it by using smaller nozzles and maintaining high pressure behind the nozzle the greater cooling affect it will have on the IATs as well.

I'd be entirely interested to hear what kind of pump and delivery/control system you come up with, since I'm designing my own too. I can learn from your trials :) What kind of alcohol in what ratio....
 
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