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Dead

H

hook2

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Location
south eastern Saskatchewan
1998 6.5 wife was driving to work. It suddenly lost power and stalled. Acts like the battery is dead, doesn't even click when you turn the key. Glow plug and engine light doesn't come on when you turn the key. Something electrical where to start? Thanks in advance.
 
Clean all the Battery connections and ground straps, shine them up good. Load test the batteries, they just might be dead if the alt isn't charging.
 
Ground on pass side rear intake stud is critical. It will do as you discribed if dirty, loose or disconnected.
 
If you have original style side post batteries and have not replaced the cables you could have MAJOR corrosion issues inside the rubber at the cable ends.
 
If you arent even getting a crank from the starter, battery must be toast, but to not even get the WTS or SES light is like beyond toast. I would suspect a connection at the battery or some fuses, or your ignition switch is all kinds of bad.
 
Do these trucks use fusible links in the wiring coming off the starter up to the ignition and alternator?

I know on my 83 K5 i blew a fusible link trying to crank it when my lift pump died. I had no power in any of the accessories, even the emergency flashers...I just put 14g wiring in it's place and all is well.
 
Be very methodical about your troubleshooting; eliminate one thing at a time and keep a list, so you can let us know what you've already done.

These things are computer-controlled, so you need a steady diet of smooth, uninterrupted electricity.

Start with battery connections, as Leo said... pull off each terminal connection, clean thoroughly, then put back together. Pay special attention to the dual-cable connection on the passenger side positive... there will be a copper 'doughnut' in between the two cables, and that guy needs to be taken out, cleaned, and put back together carefully.

Test your batteries (while unhooked) to make sure they're OK. A dead cell can give you symptoms like you describe... oxides from repeated charge/discharge settle to the bottom and can short out the plates.

Check cables for bulges, damage, or 'crunchy' spots when you flex them... corrosion, even inside the insulation, can really cause you grief.

Check all of your fuses, under the hood and in the cab. Pull them one at a time, shine up the legs with some steel wool, make sure they're OK, put them back. If you can get some NalOx to put into the clips, do so... the clips are usually copper and the fuse legs are aluminum, so they oxidize and lost contact fairly easily.

Check and clean all of your engine grounds, as indicated. Pull apart every connector you find, check for corrosion, put back together.
 
Just a quick update the truck is still dead. Went back to truck the next day and it would turn over and all warning lights worked.Smoke from exhaust so it is pumping fuel. No burnt fuses,both batteries are full charged. Towed it to my brother in laws yard. While hooking up chain noticed alot of fresh oil on the underside of the truck. Appears it blew a engine seal all oil is gone from the crankcase.My wife says there was no noise when it quit so that is strange. Guessing the engine is shot. Recovering from knee surgery so really can't get into it much. Thankyou for all your info it was a great help.
 
Wow that sucks.....

I had something similar happen to me one time with a 95 C3500. I had just bought it and was on the way home. Oil was full when I left with it, no noticeable leaks. I kept an eye on the oil pressure the whole way, learning the "normal" for my new ride, and it stayed around 40-50 on the guage. Well about 140 miles into the trip I looked down and saw the gauge at about 35... a little lower, but not bad. A mile or two later I looked again and it was about 30, but not falling fast or anything and no smoke or oil smell from the truck. Coming up to the next exit I thought I should pull over and take a look under the hood for leaks and such. As I started off the exit and took my foot off the throttle.... the oil pressure dropped to 0 and it stalled/shut off. I popped the hood, still full of oil, but it wouldn't turn over at all.
 
Here is what I have found so far, my oil loss was from a bad oil filter it had a crck in it. Engine had not run dry on oil just very low. NO burnt fuses. It does smoke when trying to start so it is getting fuel, still won't start though. Ran a scan on it these are the codes it is throwing,PO236-Boost sensor A Turbo, PO126- Insufficent coolant Temp for stable operation, PO101-Mass air flow or Volume Air flow circut, PO401 Exhaust gas Recurculation Flow insufficent. cleared all these and still won't start. What is my next move? Start replacing sensors? Thanks in advance.
 
Are batteries completely charged? Engine must turn over at 100 rpm to start...

How are your glow plugs? Same thing.. engine won't start well if glow plug circuit doesn't energize.
 
Did you load test the batteries? Fully charged doesn't necessarily mean good. It's a good basic place to start. New batteries also doesn't mean good batteries.

If you have dual post batteries be sure to use the posts you are using for load testing. One set of posts can be good while the others are bad.
 
Clearing the code will NOT let the car start.

Code will not come out again unti truck is driven.

Coolant Temp Sensor can cause inability to start, which is one of the code.
Unfortunately, that code can also mean a bad t-stat.
Bad t-stat can cause the ECM to read weird things.

I agree with load testing the battery.

Of course, we have not rule out the possibility of PMD???
 
All this electronic crap will drive you nuts but when you can't get it started, go back to Diesel 101. Simple, loosen a couple of inj lines on the drivers side(easier to get at) and have someone crank the truck. No fuel, no start. If you got fuel then we go from there. New glow plugs 2 months ago don't mean squat. They may not be cycling long enough or burned out. See if you got fuel to the injs the old fashion way. Then move to the next thing. Also that thing IIRC will cycle the LP for about 45 seconds when the key is on so open the t valve by the thermostat and see if fuel comes out the hose or you can loosen the bleeder on the filter itself but that is messy. It's best to start right at the injs and work backwards but the fuel pressure test is easiest. So far it sounds like two separate issues. Low oil was lack of PM and dead is something else.
 
Okay I confirmed glow plugs are good, lift pump is working can hear it cycle and when I open fuel bleed it runs out in a steady stream. Have changed the fuel filter. Changed out the fuel driver with one that was in the truck when I bought it can't confirm that it was good but there is no change. have cleaned battery posts and all grounds. No fuses are blown. Getting a new fuel driver.Pulled off the air box and all plumbing to the turbo all appears good there.What is up did my injection pump quit? Will go out and pull some injector lines.
 
Did you remove the spade connector from the glow plugs and test them for continuity and them check for voltage at each glow plug? Or voltage at the output pf the glow plug comtroller and continuity to each unhooked glow plug spade connector?

Do you know about the little spade connector by the underhood fuse box to hotwire your lift pump on a 1998?

All you have to do is run a jumper from the hot stud on the fuse box or battery to that wire and your lift pump will run full time. I usually like to have the lift pump hot wired when I am dealing with a hard start issue.

My next move would probably be to spray something like diesel or marvel into the intake to see if it would pop.

I would do a battery load test and compression test if you have a known to be good PMD.
 
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