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Db2 Injection Pump

zielinski.family

zielinski.family

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Location
Richmond, MO
Well, I finally bit the bullet and pulled my Db2 off and took it to a local Stanadyne Shop for a refurbishing. It was smoking excessively after driving it a while and killing it-starting it back up. It would put out a nice cloud of blue smoke and then it would clear up. Was told it was the advanced plunger. When I took it in the shop owner was impressed. He pointed out that all the paint of the screws put on by the factory hadn't been disturbed! It is the original pump from 1993 that has never been cracked open! He said when he gets it set back up he will put it to stock plus 10% on the fuel screw. Been thinking about turning it a 1/4 turn before putting it back in? Any thoughts?

Also, I decided to clean up the engine while everything was out. I have noticed there has been oil residue built up around the top of the intake manifold just under the valve cover. I thought that it might be valve cover or turbo... Well now that I have it apart, I realized that the top intake bolts holes for into the head where the valve springs are. My question on this is this, should I put something like a light coat of rtv on those bolts before I put them in, or would blue locktite be good enough? Was also wondering about putting shallack (spelling?) on the Intake gasket before assembly. Any thoughts on this?
 
I use teflon liquid tread sealer on the intake bolts.
A lick of silicone on the gasket if you reuse the old one is preferable.
On a new gasket i would use nothing.
 
zielinski.family said:
Well, I finally bit the bullet and pulled my Db2 off and took it to a local Stanadyne Shop for a refurbishing. It was smoking excessively after driving it a while and killing it-starting it back up. It would put out a nice cloud of blue smoke and then it would clear up. Was told it was the advanced plunger......
Click to expand...
The last time I took in my Olds 350 pump they sleeved the advance bore and saved the housing. Its runs great after that and yours will to. I would run it as is when you get it back, no need to void the warranty right off. Wait till it expires or it might be fine as is.
 
1/4 to 1/2 turn is all you can push through the turbo choke GM3. "10% more fuel is how much of a turn on the fuel screw?" would be a good question for the shop. Ask them to turn the fuel all the way up if that is what you want. Just be advised the factory turbo will get in the way and smoke it black. And that is with a TM at 14 PSI.

More fuel will only smoke black if you are running the factory 6 PSI of boost. You will need a Turbo Master of some sort for more boost to use the fuel. (And you need a boost gauge to accurately avoid running the turbo in the overspeed air heater region over 14 psi.) I highly recommend removing the restrictive GM3 turbo for a bigger and better one rather than a turbo master on a GM3.
 
Been thinking about the fuel filter manager. What would happen if one was to cut the heater element off and left the heater element un-plugged. I see this as increasing the fuel rate. Any thoughts?.
 
The fuel heater is something that probably won't be missed, but there are no benefits to doing this (from what I know of).

Every modification you make to the fuel system is still gonna have to funnel through the small factory inlet line to the IP. Get yourself a Feed the Beast fitting kit for optimal flow. Tag team that b!tch up with a high performance fuel pump (stock pump won't cut it for stock) and you will have all the fuel supply you would need...to the IP.

Focus on the basics first, like pulling you injectors out, having fresh nozzles installed and have them balanced. The want to mod for performance right off the bat, but these trucks need a few supporting mods to run like you want it too. Having a refreshed and recalibrated IP, plus fresh and balanced injectors, FtB plus new fuel pump and you will be cursing your stock turbo for choking you down :D

I started modding my engine for more power, subsequently killed my 700R4. I put a lift and big tires on, which forced me to replace all of my U-joints, ball joints and wheel bearings in less than 3 months on the road LOL. Sometimes you got to spend money on boring stuff first, is the point of my story :p
 
Koots- great stuff. I have already put in new injectors about 10k miles ago. I went ahead and did the FTB mod since it was all out. I went ahead and plumbed in a T in the fuel line between the FM and IP. This will be ran up and capped on the upper side of the intake so that later I can install a pressure gauge. I discovered that the bottom nipple on the water drain valve was bent and cracked. I lucked out and found one in the Junk yard. I also picked up a K47 air box, at least I think it is a k47. It was on a 1998, 3500HD- 6.5L I was hoping it still had the gm-8 turbo but someone beat me to it.
Called the Stanadyne shop today and looks like its going to be next week before my pump is ready. They said when they are done it will look brand new. So I got a gallon of purple power and I now have the engine looking brand new its self. I had the upper and lower intake parts sandblasted so they look brandnew again. Cant wait to see how it runs when its all back together.
 
FINALLY!!!! The shop called and my pump will be ready today at 3pm. After it is all said and done, I have done the FTB mod, except for the injection pump end (not an easy task by any means on a DB2), new rubber fuel lines from the manager to the front of the motor, plumbed in "T" for future fuel pressure gauge, new water drain valve (mine was cracked), sandblasted the intake manifold and upper plenum, cleaned and degreased the top of the motor and valve covers, new belt tensioner, and Lord only knows what else is going to come up. As of right now my current cost for this project is: $636.51. Thursday I get my pillar gauges. That will start a whole new mess of things to get into!
 
funny how one project turns into three! my tank sock turns into a water pump and pass side battery relocation.
 
Well, It is after 1 am my time. I finished the pump project. Came out with 3 extra clips and nuts. These originally held the fuel lines in place under the intake. I fought long and hard to get them back in. I finally gave in and left them out. Seems that when I loosened up all the lines to bleed the pump I must have moved them around. They are stout in place and aren't going anywhere, but wish I could have got them in. I also couldn't get both bolts into the filter manager. Since I added a "T" for the fuel pressure gage, it messed up the alignment. I got one bolt in and it is secure.

The truck runs great. I think the timing is advanced too much. It clatters a little louder than it did. I might go in and pull it back a tad. It smokes black now. Haven't seen that since I've owned it. It seemed to run better the more I drove it. I didn't drive it far- too tired, but will try to break it in tomorrow.

Thursday I will get the gauges and will then go back over everything to make sure everything is in its place and all. I would have to say the easiest thing I installed this evening was the belt tensioner- just one bolt!
 
zielinski.family said:
Been thinking about the fuel filter manager. What would happen if one was to cut the heater element off and left the heater element un-plugged. I see this as increasing the fuel rate. Any thoughts?.
Click to expand...

I just replaced the FFM with the new take off due to a fuel leak from the fuel heater wires. Cheaper that way.

The source of the leak was a visible pin hole near the top of the fuel heater. The new marine take off FFM has the metal spiral from around the heater already missing. I suggest you just delete the spiral and leave the heater alone. I suggest that cutting it will allow it to eventually leak around and through the wires. I do not know how long the pin hole was there - but it was leaking air and fuel. Air being the starter killer with extreme hard smokey starts... You will not see the air leak till it is big enough for fuel to seep out.

Timing:
Black smoke when cold advance is on that clears up when cold advance is off is perfect.
If you are running stock boost - you will not clear up the black smoke with timing as it will just turn blue. You need more air...
 
WarWagon said:
Timing:
Black smoke when cold advance is on that clears up when cold advance is off is perfect.
If you are running stock boost - you will not clear up the black smoke with timing as it will just turn blue. You need more air...
Click to expand...

More air... would this mean more boost? I still think I went a little over on the timing. The guy at the shop said to set it about three line widths to the driver side. It was dark and I was getting tired. I think I might have it a little more than three line widths. When I get the gauges on thursday, I will make my own Turbo wastegate adjustable spring.
 
zielinski.family said:
More air... would this mean more boost? I still think I went a little over on the timing. The guy at the shop said to set it about three line widths to the driver side. It was dark and I was getting tired. I think I might have it a little more than three line widths. When I get the gauges on thursday, I will make my own Turbo wastegate adjustable spring.
Click to expand...

Yes more boost. The 1993 is set at like 6 PSI with the factory spring can. More fuel just smokes without more boost. 14 PSI is the upper limit and that includes at altitude.

Although I would say just :suicide: put that GM3 turbo out of it's misery.
 
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