Crankcase depression regulator

[spdgofast]

Is it necessary to run a CRANKCASE DEPRESSION REGULATOR on a 6.5 or can you just "road draft" like a 5.9 Cummins ? My motor with just 25k on it puts alot of oil into my turbo and intercooler on its way back into the motor to get "reburned". And being a dealer I think every 6.5 that I have seen has this problem, what's the deal?

ANY COMMENTS OR EXPERIENCE IN THIS MATTER WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED
__________________

 

[WarWagon]

Your rings did not seat properly or you have a valve guide issue. Your choice is to keep the CDR system or:
Smoke like she is on fire if your blow by is really bad.
Have oil leak out of everything else.

The slight vacuum the CDR maintains helps a lot of high mile engines stay oil drip free.

You can try it and see if the smoke or oil leaks become an issue. You are NOT oiling up an inter cooler and without EGR there isn't much of an issue. With an EGR it becomes a nasty mess.

 

[spdgofast]

May I ask your opinion on the best way to properly seat a set of new rings? I imagine this is tough to answer because of all the variables such as what kind of rings being used etc. etc. I broke this particular new engine in using regular 20w 40w mobile none synthetic then switched to Amsoil 20/40 synthetic after 12k of break in time. Maybe went to Amsoil synthetic too soon?

 

[Joey D]

I run a road draft tube to under the front of the truck. I do get some smoke at idle but not a big deal. I kept the CDR can though and just replaced the hose with a longer one. Not sure the can is needed though.

 

[iamdave0887]

May I ask your opinion on the best way to properly seat a set of new rings? I imagine this is tough to answer because of all the variables such as what kind of rings being used etc. etc. I broke this particular new engine in using regular 20w 40w mobile none synthetic then switched to Amsoil 20/40 synthetic after 12k of break in time. Maybe went to Amsoil synthetic too soon?

Are those diesel rated oils? You must run a diesel rated oil as the 6.2 and 6.5 really put a lot of soot into the oil. It's evident when you watch how fast it turns black.

I run Amsoil 15w-40 in my 96, with 195K miles on it and there's barely any blowby. My 85 however, with a goodwrench crate engine with 20K tops has a lot of blowby, so it wasn't broken in correctly. I don't think the rings were seated properly.

 

[spdgofast]

Yes, they were diesel rated oil,the amsoil was the 15w 40 with bypass filter, even had oil analysist done. It was a new motor from Chevrolet.

 

[JMJNet]

It did not make sense on the Mobil oil. There are 2 mobil oil, Delvac 1300S is 15W-40 and One TDT is 5W-40. The former is dino/regular oil.

I have not seen 20W-50 Mobil oil rated for diesel (CI-4+ or CJ-4), may be I am missing something.
I hope you are not using 5W-20 oil for gasser???

At any rate, the engine may be defective from the beginning.

 

[great white]

Is this a 506 block from GM?

If so it is an optimizer and should have come with a "break in oil" already in the crankcase.

This should have been run for 500 miles and then drained.

There are two camps on breaking in a diesel.

One camp says break it in like a gasser. IE: vary rpm and load, short runs, etc. ref - (google has failed me! )

The other says to load it up to 75-80% load and bed the rings in. ref -http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/23862/manufacturer_tech_tip_breaking_in_rebuilt_diesel_engines.aspx

Some recommend chucking the heaviest trailer you can on them and flogging them hard. I wouldn't recommend that far of an extreme.

The common explaination for loading a diesel for break in is that unless you load up a diesel and work it fairly hard, you don't get adequate cylinder pressures to force the rings into the cylinder walls properly.

Taking that a bit further, it's supposed to cause "glazing" on the cylinder walls if you don't get adaquate cylinder pressures when "breaking in" a diesel.

Once they are glazed, blowby and oil consumption ensues. Glazing has to be removed mechanically. IE: honing.

This is not my personal explaination, but what I have gleaned from a combination of periodicals.



Now, personal experience time;

My engine was replaced recently with an Optimizer direct from GM parts.

We called GM parts directly and they said to leave the oil that came in the engine for 500 miles and then change it (we were calling to clarify warranty requirements). The explaination was that it was factory installed "break in oil". I ran it and changed it at 500 miles. Then in went Rotella 15w40. Two crankcases of that and now it's Rotella Synthetic.

I also had my 8-8500ish trailer with us (truck broke down in mid trip). The engine got the rest of it's "break in" hauling the trailer which, coincedentaly, fits with the article in enginebuilder mag.com linked above (written by IPD).

My engine now has approximately 20,000 kms on it.

I just finished a 1000 mile round trip.

Didn't burn a drop of oil. Not a drop.

Takes a very long time for the oil to blacken completely.

Zero, and I really mean zero, blowby when I pull the oil fill cap.

Intake and turbo ducting is bone dry, not one drop of oil and I still have the factory CDR routing.

Take from that what you will.

Cheers

 

[great white]

Is this a 506 block from GM?

If so it is an optimizer and should have come with a "break in oil" already in the crankcase.

This should have been run for 500 miles and then drained.

There are two camps on breaking in a diesel.

One camp says break it in like a gasser. IE: vary rpm and load, short runs, etc. ref - (google has failed me! )

The other says to load it up to 75-80% load and bed the rings in. ref -http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/23862/manufacturer_tech_tip_breaking_in_rebuilt_diesel_engines.aspx

Some recommend chucking the heaviest trailer you can on them and flogging them hard. I wouldn't recommend that far of an extreme.

The common explaination for loading a diesel for break in is that unless you load up a diesel and work it fairly hard, you don't get adequate cylinder pressures to force the rings into the cylinder walls properly.

Taking that a bit further, it's supposed to cause "glazing" on the cylinder walls if you don't get adaquate cylinder pressures when "breaking in" a diesel.

Once they are glazed, blowby and oil consumption ensues. Glazing has to be removed mechanically. IE: honing.

This is not my personal explaination, but what I have gleaned from a combination of periodicals.



Now, personal experience time;

My engine was replaced recently with an Optimizer direct from GM parts.

We called GM parts directly and they said to leave the oil that came in the engine for 500 miles and then change it (we were calling to clarify warranty requirements). The explaination was that it was factory installed "break in oil". I ran it and changed it at 500 miles. Then in went Rotella 15w40. Two crankcases of that and now it's Rotella Synthetic.

I also had my 8-8500ish trailer with us (truck broke down in mid trip). The engine got the rest of it's "break in" hauling the trailer which, coincedentaly, fits with the article in enginebuilder mag.com linked above (written by IPD).

My engine now has approximately 20,000 kms on it Correction - just checked odometer, more like 25,000 kms.

I just finished a 1000 mile round trip Correction - 1000 mile each way, or 2000 mile round trip if you want to look at it that way.

Didn't burn a drop of oil. Not a drop.

Takes a very long time for the oil to blacken completely. Addition- The current fill of synth still has a translucent quality to it after the 2000 mile round trip. Mobil 1 filter

Zero, and I really mean ZERO, blowby when I pull the oil fill cap.

Intake and turbo ducting is bone dry, not one drop of oil and I still have the factory CDR routing.

Take from that what you will.

Cheers