CowBoy Caddilac Dead Again

[NVW]

If you get the thing out and on a stand, flip it over and check the bottom end first.

You may be able to stuff the pistons up in the holes. (use rubber hose on all rod bolts) and then pull the crank out.

If the bottom end is still good, just dump in a set of mains and another crank, pull the rods/pistons back down and button it back up.

This can be a tad tedious but would be better than having to completely tear it down.

I have not done this on a 6.5 but it seems that there may be enough room.

Would save the $$$$$$$$$$ on head gaskets and bolts.


Missy

Thats basically what I did but I did it in frame. It was a GMC 6500 so a bit more room.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

It would be sweet if you could save the time and expense of ripping the engine completely appart.

If your oil pressure is still good when hot, its likely that the bearings are not wobbled all out "YET"

With the bottom end opened up you can check the webs for cracks too.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Missy

 

[Ratman]

Josh, my heart goes out to ya. I would definitely follow Missy's plan and give it a go without pulling the heads. You are going to want to do a real "intimate" inspection of the bottom end of that block to ensure she's not cracked. I would also pay real close attention to where the break is (appears to be forward of the first main). You just want to be certain that you don't have any other internal contact due to the breakage that would snub all of your efforts after getting it all back together. Dang factory cast cranks, -maybe it's time for a SCAT? I know they're not a whole lot better (still being cast and all), but they are cast steel, -which "supposedly" has a 15,000 PSI higher tensile strength over the nodular iron piece. It is a proven fact that fatigue is cumulative, -and one can never be sure how many cycles a crank has been subjected to, -or how many more it is good for before it lets go. What a crappy thing to happen, -hang in there. :smile5:

 

[chevyCowboy]

Spent the day yesterday out in the cold pulling the motor in our extra drive way. the high temp was about 38. i had lots of clothes on but it wasnt to bad since i had the block heater pluged in the night before and left it pluged in untill i drained the water. got the motor pulled in around 4 hrs. probably could have done it faster if it wanst for the cold.

Got it on the stand and droped the pan with it sitting right ways up to keep any shrapnel from getting up into the rest of the block. much to my surprise there wasnt any large pieces. there were some metalic flakes in the bottom of the pan but not much.

turned the block over and shure enough found the crack right before the 2 main journal

Ran out of time and couldnt do any more yesterday becouse i had to go to my brothers house to watch the Big 12 championship Huskers vs Sooners, sadlly the huskers lost

Got it torn down today. pulled the front cover off to get the timeing chain off and then set about removing the crank, i got it done and the pistons are still in there holes but im thinking it could be difficult getting the crank back in but im going to give it a go.

As i figured the crank came out in 2 pieces

i wiped all the main webs down with a clean rag and i cannot find any cracks ::thumbsup: i spent a good 15 min with a brite light checking every inch of the block that i can see, cant seem to find a single crack other than the one on the 3rd main that i did the full toqure insert on and the crack is no bigger than it was :thumbsup:

the pics of the main webs are the 2nd web where i would expect the cracks to be, the only bearings that looks bad where the front main there is a pic of the top half of that bearing which was the worst.

I have 2 spare cranks to chose from i need to go and pull them and i will be having them checked out by a machinest and most likely polished. one of the ones that i have is from my original 93 block it had right aroung 268K on it and from what i remember it didnt look bad. the other one i havent seen and it is out of a 93 599 block as well, with unknown millage. i will be opening that one. any one have any suggestions on which one is a better choice.

any one got a price on a scat IIRC they where around $400ish. but money is tight right now as i am also trying to buy a house so it looks like i will probalby use one of the ones that i have.

 

[chevyCowboy]

Forgot these pics in my last post. there is a spot where the crank rubbed slightly on the front main web.

 

[Ratman]

Josh, man, it sure does look like you lucked out! It looks like the block lived, but you will probably need to take a stone to the #1 main bore to ensure there is no burr from the crank-rub before you put new bearings in there.

I gotta say, -as smooth as that thing was running, I don't think there is any damage to your valvetrain due to pistons hitting valves. What do the rod bearings look like on #1 and #2? By the looks of #1 main, -and by the video, -the snout of that crank was wingin' 'round pretty good.

My bet is that with the 1-2 crank throw not having very good support, the #1 and #2 rod-ends have been possibly subjected to some abnormal loading. That being said, I would seriously take that into consideration (in regards to whether you do all the work from the bottom, -or pull the heads so that you can re-size #1 and #2 rod-ends, -or even replace them).

If it was me, -and I saw strange wear-patterns on the #1 and #2 rod bearings, I would then check to make sure the sides of the big rod-ends had not been worn down too bad. That is something that would cause excessive rod side-clearance with the new crank, -and could cause you grief down the road. In my opinion, that would also be my decision-maker as far as taking the heads off.

I'm curious, -if you have pictures of those bearings, -post 'em up. What do the sides of #1 and #2 rods look like?

 

[chevyCowboy]

ill get some pics up later it may be tommorow after work befor i get them up tho i have to go to dinner for the gf's cousin now maybe i can snap some later when i get home. but i didnt notice any thing that looked funny to me

 

[Ratman]

ill get some pics up later it may be tommorow after work befor i get them up tho i have to go to dinner for the gf's cousin now maybe i can snap some later when i get home. but i didnt notice any thing that looked funny to me

10-4, -I don't want to worry ya, -it's just that if the rods need to come out to get re-sized (or worst-case replaced), -it would be better to find out now rather than later....

Just to confirm, -the picture named DSC00628.jpg is of the #1 main, -right?

Have a great dinner man....:thumbsup:

 

[NVW]

Just out of curiosity, did it have a new HB on it and if so what brand?

 

[great white]

Dang, if it wasn't for bad luck you'd have no luck at all!

Here's hoping your luck turns around.

Cheers

 

[chevyCowboy]

10-4, -I don't want to worry ya, -it's just that if the rods need to come out to get re-sized (or worst-case replaced), -it would be better to find out now rather than later....

Just to confirm, -the picture named DSC00628.jpg is of the #1 main, -right?

Have a great dinner man....:thumbsup:

Ya good thinking had a couple mins to look at them better again and every thing seems tight to me will get pics tomorow.

yes it is

Just out of curiosity, did it have a new HB on it and if so what brand?

the balancer was a little over a year old. i had to replace it on my original motor when the old one seperated and took out the timeing cover, i got it at oreillys. i went ahead and reused it sinc it wasnt that old. on Thanks giving i noticed that it was seperating and i replaced it with an old one that i had and here we are now

Dang, if it wasn't for bad luck you'd have no luck at all!

Here's hoping your luck turns around.

Cheers

thats the truth

 

[DieselSlug]

Wow, i feel for you big time. I just got done putting 2 engines in my jeep, after the first i bought ended up having tons of rust in #6 cylinder.... Im at about 25k on my rebuild. Lately ive been noticing that its a little harder to start. I think some of my glow plug wires may have come loose or are getting corroded.

 

[SCREAMINXL]

Josh I have an extra 6.5er. Has 180K, cracked main webs, low compression, smokes & uses more coolant than diesel......................but it has a one piece crankshaft.:hihi: Free to good home!!!

P.S. It was hard to start too.

 

[Ratman]

Any updates? How do the sides of those rods look?

Just curious..

 

[chevyCowboy]

sorry have been busy will post pic in a few hrs heading out to pull the spare cranks

 

[Ratman]

sorry have been busy will post pic in a few hrs heading out to pull the spare cranks

No pressure, -just curious how those rods and rod bearings look. I'm not trying to worry you, just keep you from doing things twice, -or worst case having it come apart after going through all the work of putting it back together. :thumbsup:

 

[chevyCowboy]

Here are the pics. there is a little bit of funny wear on the number 2 rod bearing but the rods seem fine no wear marks that i can see.

Didnt get the cranks pulled yet due to unforseen complecations, i was trying to flip one of the blocks over, had it tipped forward and was trying to get it over the rest of the way when i noticed that about 4qts of oil had leaked all over the gargae floor:mad2::mad2: Of course i only had about half a 5gal bucket of oil dry that was beyond used up, so i trew that on the oil graped a shovel and scooped up the sludge i just made ran to the store got more oil dry and spent the next 1/2hr trying to get it half way clean again :mad2: As was said before if it wasnt for bad luck id have no luck at all. i really thought i drained the oil out of that block when i brought it home.:???:

hope fully i can get them out tomorow. i did find a machine shop in town that will mag and check the cranks for $18 and which ever one is the best they will polish for $28

 

[SCREAMINXL]

Looks like bearings that were ran dry with some crap that went through them.......possibly due to a loss of oil pressure to them.......due to a broken crankshaft. How do the other rod bearings look before the break?

 

[ak diesel driver]

I thought they looked pretty good considering they didn't have much oil pressure if any. how much time on engine after the break?

 

[chevyCowboy]

ill check the others tomorow. the motor never lost oil pressure but i these 2 bearings would have definetly loss pressure

id say it idled for some where between 5 and 10 min after the break while i was taking the videos and trying to figure out what was wrong, more than likely on the low side of that