Mikey von
Member
I am finally getting ready to fire this thing you (hopefully this weekend). It is a fresh 6.2L in a '89 Suburban.
What type (color) coolent is best? 25 or so quarts?
What type (color) coolent is best? 25 or so quarts?
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Coolent type, '89 6.2L rebuild
- Thread starter Mikey von
- Start date
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Spec was 6.2 gal, so 25 quarts works.
Toward what to use, what is the budget and how long do you plan on keeping the Burb? If the goal is long term ownership, waterless is my coolant of choice. If you want to stick with OE, I'll let somebody else chime-in versus get smacked for giving the wrong answer.
Found a cool GM link to get other specs for the rig:
http://gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html
But unfortunately no online owners manual.
Toward what to use, what is the budget and how long do you plan on keeping the Burb? If the goal is long term ownership, waterless is my coolant of choice. If you want to stick with OE, I'll let somebody else chime-in versus get smacked for giving the wrong answer.
Found a cool GM link to get other specs for the rig:
http://gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html
But unfortunately no online owners manual.
Mikey von
Member
If she runs strong and does good pulling my trailer, I plan on keeping her for a long long time. Can you give me some info on waterless coolent?
btfarm
America First!
For a fresh start on one that age I'd recommend using an extended life (name brand) coolant that says "use with any color" on the bottle. That's what I'm gradually switching my farm units to. That way, no surprises with a residue you may not know about. The DMax gets the primo dex stuff though.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Evans is the one I go with. Short version is that this is the product that Semi's go with:
> no need to replace, unless you get a leak.
> no water and has a high boiling point (IIRC over 300F).
> you can (and I do) drill a hole in the radiator cap to take the system pressure to near 0 psi; this also reduces stress on the pump and hoses.
> higher cost (currently ~$42 a gallon), but with never needing to replace it, this aspect alone pays for itself long term.
Personally, I have converted two of my other vehicles and the Burb is about to get it in a few weeks when I drop in the new motor.
Best to search on it as there are pro's and cons (most I have captured above).
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
Any name brand extended coolant is fine, just check to make sure its diesel rated as some aren't. Evan's is good but not sure if its worth it as if you have a leak, OUCH. I used it in my Caravan and honestly, didn't notice any performance gain but I did like the fact you could run a 0 psi rad cap, that makes hoses and the waterpump should last forever.
- Staff
- #7
I've had 2 engines lose head gaskets in the 2 years I used it in my shop. One engine was a NEW GM longblock, heads had been hot tanked and baked, and a new radiator. After a little over a year it lost a head gasket. opened it up and it looked HORRIBLE inside. Full of rust and scale all over the cylinder liners, and that goopy crap stuck o nthe gaskets. The other vehicles I used it in all had the same gunk in the cooling system. I now use zerex green for anything pre extended life, and the appropriate ELF for anything that requires it. No more universal stuff for me.