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Coolant leak is back, Plus oil sludge! 88GMCtruck's 1999 K2500 L65 = more problems.

88gmctruck

02GMCtruck
Messages
2,010
Reaction score
338
Location
Auburn, Wa
Problem: Truck is using about 1gallon of coolant in roughly 1,000 miles. Now my oil has some thick sludge chunks in it. *pictures at end*

Demographics:
- Year: 1999
- Truck model and class: K2500, 8,600 GVWR
- Automatic or Standard: NV-4500
- Mileage: ~151,1## miles
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc): Black Stanadyne PMD with #9 resistor install on 3/14/2011 after runaway at approx 146,500 miles. PMD is bolted to a 1/4" aluminum plate with a pentium 4 heatsink and fan mounted behind the driver's battery.
- Model: Turbo-charged L65 "F"
- Ambient outside temp: ~65F
- What fuel are you using? #2 Diesel
- What fuel additives are you using? Silver power service
- Where are you located?: Pullman, WA

General Maintenance:
- Air filter: Wix filter changed on 03/14/2011 @ 148,000 miles
- Fuel filter: Wix changed changed on 03/14/2011 @ 148,000 miles
- CDR Valve?: Cleaned and inspected 05/29/2011 @ 151,1## miles

- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at: Unknown, uses approx 1 gallon of coolant per 1,000 - 1,500 miles. Coolant is orange, smells and looks normal. Cap holds pressure. No bubbles in the tank. No white smoke in exhaust. Upper radiator hose does not immediately get hard, takes about 8-10 mins. Put UV dye in coolant and pressure tested 4/8/11. Truck while cold held pressure for over an hour after finding lower radiator hose loose at waterpump. Visually inspected again 5/29/2011 and cannot see any leaks or UV dye.

- Oil – synthetic/regular, Last change: Shell Rotella T 15w40 Conventional & Donaldson Filter, changed on 03/14/2011 @ 148,000 miles. Changed today 5/29/2011 with the same at 151,1## miles. Oil was at proper level, however had thick sludge like "globs" on the old filter and at the end of the oil draining process. Oil is black, there is not milky substance anywhere.

- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at: Charged, matched Les Schwab 1,000/800 CA/CCA
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): OEM, cleaned and tightened.
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them?: Unknown What type? Delco G60. Individually tested & working
- Injectors - last changed at: Unknown

History:
- What were you doing when it happened?: Ongoing
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared?: Still running.
- Has this problem ever happened before?: Yes to coolant, no to sludge.
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem: Beginning to think headgasket or cracked head.
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)?: No, the light is not on.

Diagnostics:
1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start?: Yes.
1b] Does the engine crank over?: Yes.
1c] Are your batteries fully charged?: Yes.
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections?: Yes.
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time?: Yes. How long?: 10 seconds depending on temp of truck.
1f] Does your glow plug light come on?: n/a For how long?: n/a
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking?: Right after startup, yes. What color?: Normal exhaust colored, lightly sooty, smells like burnt #2.
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check?: yes.

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up?: After 8-10 mins of running on high idle, yes. Takes longer at normal idle..
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank?: No.
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)?: No.
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? When it's under ~32F there is white smoke on startup, appears as if it is normal condensation.
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? No.

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges (boost, EGT)?: No.
6b] Maximum boost under load?: Unknown.
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip?: No.
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover?: 3" Straight pipe.
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum (OEM)?: OEM

List and describe any other factors which are not addressed in this checklist. We can’t see, hear, smell, or touch your truck, so the more descriptive information you can give, the more likely it is that somebody can assist you.

Truck has used coolant since day 1 apparently. Uses around a gallon in 1,000 - 1,500 miles. I did already try the GM sealant tabs in the upper rad hose and it appears to have done nothing. Currently there does not appear to be any leaks at the crossover, blockout plates, freeze plugs, waterpump, heater fitting or any hose. Upper Rad hose takes 8-10 mins to get hard, coolant cap holds pressure just fine. The exhaust smells normal, coolant looks and smells normal, but the oil is some sludge build up. Oil level never changes. Oil pressure has been around 25 PSI idle, 45PSI otherwise, once at operating temperature since I've owned it.

Have only owned the truck for 5,000 miles. First oil change at 148k appeared normal, however was immediately after PMD runaway incident. Between these two oil changes there haven't been any issues aside from the mystery coolant loss. 2 weeks ago drove it approx 500 miles over a weekend, no issues there. With the exception of 1 short trip (approx 100 miles) all have been without the trailer.

I'm beginning to think this is a headgasket problem or cracked head. I do not think i'm getting anything into the combustion chamber since the coolant tank is acting normal, however i think the coolant once up to operating temp is pressurizing and finding it's way into the oil, and as a result i have a slight sludge build up. Here are pictures of the filter.

2011-05-29_14-21-34_229.jpg

2011-05-29_14-21-50_534.jpg


I'm debating on filling it with new oil & filter, give it a few days and then re-drain the oil, and see if the sludge re-appears. Is it possible this is a result of the PMD runaway I had where they truck overfueled itself? I changed the oil shortly after that incident, and it has been 3,000 miles since. I plan to send the old oil to blackstone for analysis. If it is coolant in the oil, I know that is BAD for bearings, luckily it's a minute amount that has been making it's way in since the oil level is constant and is still black and oily.

Any other place oil and coolant could mix together aside from the heads, that is somewhere that is a common area. Any way the waterpump could?
 
Don't waste the oil. You can see by looking at it that it is getting coolant in it. Further running of oil that is getting contaminated will ruin bearings very quickly. Not good news, but, the problem needs to be fixed. The PO looks to have sold you a problem truck so it has already run some with this issue. On the other hand if it is the block you should run it till it locks up to get your money out of it as the engine will need to be replaced with a cracked block... You will ruin the oil cooler locking the engine up though...

1 gal in that kind of miles sounds like a head or gasket.

It is possible for a leak to get into the engine through the timing cover and water pump. It is also possible to hit oil from a head gasket.

I would pull the water crossover, t-stat housing, off the engine and watch for bubbles. This could tell you if you have a head or head gasket issue.

Then you can pull the water pump and timing cover off. Check each gasket for a leak. If you don't find any pull the heads.

If the gaskets and heads look good you need to pull the engine and scrap the cracked block.

On edit:
Some radiators have an engine oil cooler in them along with a trans oil cooler. Check yours to see if it is equipped or just uses the standard air to oil cooler for the engine oil. Radiator tanks are famous for leaks into oil.
 
Well, I just re-filled the crankcase and put the new filter on it. Seems like it's time to tear things apart. Sucks, I'm supposed to be moving in about 15 days so I better get my ass in gear as this is the primary tow vehicle.

I did want to mention that it only uses coolant on longer trips. If I drive it on my normal runs to town the coolant seems to last much longer then when the truck is ran continuously. Also, my oil cooler is external. And the truck is a manual, so there isn't even a cooler for it to go bad.

I don't think pulling the crossover will help me will it? I'm not getting coolant into the combustion chamber as far as I can tell, the upper rad hose doesn't get hard till it starts to warm up, there is no smoke while running and the coolant doesn't get overpressurized. It seems to me there is a coolant to oil leak, where the coolant works it's way into the oil due to the coolant pressure increase as it heats up.
 
Also, if the block is bad..... I'm putting it together, and will do regular oil changes till it dies. I don't have the money to put a motor in it in the near future, but if it needs it I could within the end of the year.
 
Here's what the inside of the engine will look like:


IMG_1955_15.JPG IMG_1957_17.JPG



IMG_2002_11.JPG


The thick sludge-like oil won't get to the cam and lifters. The roller lifters left tracks on the cam. Cam bearings were gone. Main and rod bearings looked ok. The only way to get all the sludge out is to take everything apart.
 
What i'm finding interesting is the first oil change at 2,000 miles (148k) came out completely normal, but this change at 3,000 miles (151k) isn't. Supposedly the oil was changed just before I bought the truck at 146,000 miles. I'm hoping the innards of my motor do not look like that, it's scary.

Mind you not much of my oil was sludge like when it came out.....
 
That oil looked black to me but if your loosing coolant...it's going somewhere. you should not loose coolant. Time to pull the heads unless you see a leak externally. BK's pic is very accurate. PO could have already douched it with cooling tabs.
 
Well, the oil is black, but it has some thick "chunks" in it. I did change the oil after about 45 Mins of driving it, then a 20 min cooldown. After the oil had sat awhile and I drained the pan, it was back to a single consistency.
 
A Gallon of colant over 1000 miles is pretty considerable. It's only got a few places to go; leak into crancase, leak into combustion chamber, leak on to the ground. There's none on the ground, so that only leaves two places for it to go....

Sorry to say David, but me thinks you either have the crack between valves, a head gasket going away or (if it's still the original 506 block) maybe the #8 cylinder bore crack at the fire deck.

Cylinder bore kind of makes sense if you don't seem to loose coolant until it's good and warm on a long run, giving the crack enough time to open and weep water into the crank case. That's terminal unless you want to pull it apart and sleeve the bore. I wouldn't though, not if it's cracked at the fire deck.

But for your sake, I'm hoping it's just a head gasket going down. All things considered, that's an easy fix.

That looks like a small amount of contaminant, but it only takes a small amount of water in the wrong place to wipe out a main or rod bearing.

I'd say if it wasn't present in your last oil change, then it's a recent development. Which, believe it or not, is a good thing.

Usually, sudden onset of this sort of thing indicates a head gasket.

Got a coolant pressure tester? Pump up the coolant system and hunt down the leak.....
 
I pressure tested 4/8/11 and it held 25 PSI for over an hour while cold.

The teardown has begin. Tonight I will be ordering a crap load of fel-pro and some ARP studs.
 
Have read that article.

I just smashed my finger taking the airbox out. Got pissed and threw it, now I need a new k47 lower portion.

I might just stop taking things apart and sell it as it. I can't be dumping money into this at the current time.
 
Patience.
You've bought a used truck and have to know that by doing so, you've purchased someone else's problems. Regardless of whether he knew he had a coolant issue in the oil or not, you're dealing with it now. Continue to do so with the methodical and logical approach you've got the reputation, knowledge and skills to be able to do.
What info you lack, these guys have.
What encouragement you need, we've go that too.
Friends, you've got quite a few there willing to jump in and support you as well.
Remember, Frustration and anger are choices, stay in control. The failure to do so is expen$ive.
 
Thanks for the words. The big problem is I don't have the $$$ to fix this is there are larger problems. Being just out of school and haven't started working yet has put me in a bad situation with this thing, let alone the fact that I'm moving in 15 days.

I have just found that the turbo now seems to have developed an excessive amount of play. I'm not sure if it's related or if it was caused during the run-away PMD event (the turbo got quite warm then).
 
Used 30K or less take out 6.2 engines are $1200. Add studs and gaskets take you to just under $2000.00. You can use the 6.2 heads to save cash if yours are cracked.

It adds value to know what is wrong before you sell it. Teardown is more or less free. But if you are selling it post it up on here...

Or dump it on the market with 'the wife hates it' for full value. After all it still runs...
 
I have a problem just dumping it on someone else, however as cheap as I got it I could easily break close to even.
 
A crack between the valve's should get compression in the cooling circuit.IE bubbles and/or hard rad hose early after start.not coolant in the oil.

Head gasket? possible, but usually between the fire ring and a water jacket,seldom between a waterjacket and the lifter pocket cut outs in the head which is the only path for coolant to get from the head in the oil.just not enough pressure there IMO.

Coolant making it on the piston can/will result in hydra lock depending on the severety of the leak.
The little bit you're loosing per day will prob not make it past the piston.

That leaves a cracked bore or web.i vote for the former as you seem to burn most of the coolant judged by what is in the oil.

But i hope for you i'm wrong.
 
Wish you were closer, I may be in need of an NV4500. You are right, don't dump it on somebody else. Think how you feel right now. Part the truck out. That NV4500 will fetch some $$ for sure. Scarce item these days.
 
IN the meantime, pull the heads. See what's going on. cracks between the valves don't necessarily mean squat. My 93 has 'em on both heads and it was the headgaskets. Truck runs mint now with new gaskets. Hell water could be leaking past one of the headbolts into the crankcase. If you buy the ARP's from Summit and don't open the box , you can return them for full refund if the motor turns out to be a turd and they ship lightening fast.
 
BTW the amount of coolant you are losing is about as much as my CUCV is losing and I know it needs a HG and it's burning it. You put the new fel pros in there with some ARPs and it will work real nice.
 
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