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Constant white smoke

DEERE3594

I welcome everyone...not just Penguins!
Messages
5,009
Reaction score
8
Location
NE Ohio
Problem: Explain your problem in concise language
started smoking white at start up, and would go away after a few seconds, now smokes white none stop, the morning after gettinga code 78 (have had a turbo master for 40k miles)

Demographics: tell us about your truck and your ambient conditions:

- Year: 1994
- Truck model and class (ie: c2500) K3500
- Automatic or Standard Auto
- Mileage: (indicate miles or km) 220,000 on truck, about 40,00 or 50,00 on motor
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc) all stock other then TM and PMD under bumper
- Model: ‘S’ or ‘F’ engine, NA or Turbo, EGR? F
- Ambient outside temp: (indicate *C or *F) 70F
- What fuel are you using? (#1 Diesel, #2 Diesel, Bio, VO, WVO, etc) pump diesel
- What fuel additives are you using? none
- Where are you located? canton ohio

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter 10k
- Fuel filter 3k
- CDR Valve? 50k
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at 50k
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at rotella 15/40
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at 3 years old, and good
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): 4 months
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? 50k What type? unsure
- Injectors - last changed at new with motor/50k


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? started it
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared? slight white smoke for a few seconds at start, now constant
- Has this problem ever happened before? no
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem. un sure
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? (Y.N) yes, code 78


Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? yes
1b] Does the engine crank over? yes
1c] Are your batteries fully charged? yes
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? no
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? yes, and same amount as before
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? _see above
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? white, but starts right up
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check? yes

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? yes
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? yes
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? yes
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? havnt tried
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? no

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) heat seak under bumper
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? new from vendor
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. good
3d] PMD Make: stydadyne
3e] PMD Age: unsure

4] Stalling Issues
4a] Do you experience stalling only when hot?
4b] Does it stall under particular circumstances? (ie hit bump, or on accel) ______
4c] Does pouring cool water over the IP seem to help with restarting? _________
4d] Is stalling momentary (engine recovers)? _________ dose NOT stall
4e] Does SES light come on when engine hiccups? _________
4f] Does cruise control quit working when engine hiccups? ___________
4g] Does re-starting seem to reset engine, restoring cruise and power? _________
4h] Changes to dash lights or instruments during stalling events? ___________

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? no
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? no
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? no
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? yes, and does not go away when warm
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? no

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges (boost, EGT) ? boost, egt, and trans
6b] Maximum boost under load? 12
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? no
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? dyemiond eye 3 inch down pipe, 4 inch with muffler back
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum (OEM)? TM

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? single
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? approx 5k ago
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? approx 5k ago
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? Manufacturer of replacement? duramax fan
7e] (winter) Have you tested your antifreeze? Good to what temp? -20"ish" F
7f] (winter) Are you using a winter grille cover? not currently

List and describe any other factors which are not addressed in this checklist. We can’t see, hear, smell, or touch your truck, so the more descriptive information you can give, the more likely it is that somebody can assist you.

does this sound like a injector/IP? or diesel line? idles very rough, the motor "rocks" back and forth, white smoke goes away some when worm, but always still there. On the IP, witch is the return line? any ideas? Or anyone want to buy a truck? :eek:
 
i think you just need to get rid of that 6.5 diesel and put a 12v cummins hand shaker in it :thumbsup:
 
Code 78 is Turbo Wastegate Solenoid Fault.

Is the white smoke smelling like coolant or diesel? I would guess retarded timing or burning coolant for easy things. Worse is a mechanical issue causing a miss. Do you get puffs out of the oil fill tube?
 
did the timeing get off? i would bet it is a bad injector. how is the blow by? you said on facebook that its not watter are you sure?
 
Justin,i say you got a pissing injector(stuck open)
IP return line is(stock) short curved black hose on front top of IP

If I pull that line off with it at ideal,should it be shooting fuel out?!

whats the best way to find what injector is bad? on tractors id crack them open one at a time, but im not sure how to do that with these injectorswith the way the return lines are.. is it possible?
 
If I pull that line off with it at ideal,should it be shooting fuel out?!

whats the best way to find what injector is bad? on tractors id crack them open one at a time, but im not sure how to do that with these injectorswith the way the return lines are.. is it possible?
You can do it the same way as with the tractors,you just have to be carefull not to damage the return tubes and/or the nipples.
The dr side is not to bad, the pass side is trickier but can be done if you remove the inj shield.
 
the more i think about this it really sounds like an injector that has started to pee. hopefully that is all it is and an easy one to get to
 
If I pull that line off with it at ideal,should it be shooting fuel out?! whats the best way to find what injector is bad? on tractors id crack them open one at a time, but im not sure how to do that with these injectorswith the way the return lines are.. is it possible?
If you're talking about the IP return line,the answer is "I don't know if it shoots fuel" cause i never ran it without a hose in place.It won't hurt to put a clear tube on there so you can see if there is air coming trough or you experience fuel drain back(hard or no start)
 
You can crack the lines one at a time to see which injector is bad if it's noisy, not sure if that would work for a stuck/low pop/leaking injector as it's already causing problems at low pressures.

If that actually is your problem.

And it's going to get pretty messy too. And for the love of God keep as clear from any spray with you skin and eyes as possible !

It shouldn't be spraying at high pressure if it's cracked, but you never know. High pressure diesel can cut right into your skin and cause necrosis (dead tissue) deep in the tissue and it spreads. As low as 100 Psi can punch right through you skin then you have diesel in you system. It's not joke, it starts looking like a pin hole and quickly progresses like this:

hi-pressure-paint-injury1-590x442.jpg

1230552-1241999-2338tn.jpg

1230552-1241999-2340.jpg

If it happens to you, get to the hospital......RIGHT FRICKIN NOW!!!!!!!!!

People have had amputations due to high pressure hydrocarbon injection injuries.

Threads like this make me glad I'm OBDII and can shut injectors off and on through the diagnostic software.

Maybe the ENGH OBDI program does something similar?

Anyways, I'll stop now before I get too OT or make someone else loose thier lunch.....
 
well now lets not start scaring people. it is thing that people should know about but it can happen from any liquid under pressure, be it hydrolics, water, gas, any thing iv heard of it happening from a high pressure hyd line. heck they say even air can penitrate the skin and then you get air in you blood and thats a bad deal.

those pics are pretty nasty!! :sick:
 
AHH!!! I going to go back to trouble free big blocks.... blead the lines, no change at all, could it be a IP? i just need this damn truck to last me a month and ill get a big block... but i need to drive 40 minutes one way to work.. and i cant "fog for bugs" threw down down...
 
I would park it till you figure out what it is. The engine rocking is a bad sign. Lost an injector, piston, or valve operation. Plastic button missing off a rocker? Possible oil smoke from turbo or other engine oil getting in exhaust/engine etc. loosen injector line with engine off. Fire it up and check for a difference.
 
it comes and goes. could it be sucking air? my fuel lines haved leaked for over 4 years though(between tank and lift pump)... maybe they got worse?
 
Air will smoke white... Clear return line on IP will tell you for sure.
 
well it ended up being a injector after all. do i really have to by a 60 dollor socket to get it out, or will anything else work?
 
I use a 30MM axle nut socket and regularly bust the return nipples off. So it is a really good idea to use the proper tool.
 
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