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Codes. Truck won’t move

My diagram list pin 12 at crank voltage. So it should only have 12v on it when the key is in the start position. Im trying to trace the wire for the c5500 chassis. On a 3500 chassis it shows 11 and 12 being 12v with the key on.
 
According to my information pin 12 is only hot in the start position. It gets power from circuit breaker 11 (strtr). That circuit breaker gets power straight from the ignition switch on the yellow wire. This is for the Kodiak chassis. Like I said before, on the 2500-3500 pin 11 and 12 are both ignition voltage.
 
Rockabillyrat said:
According to my information pin 12 is only hot in the start position. It gets power from circuit breaker 11 (strtr). That circuit breaker gets power straight from the ignition switch on the yellow wire. This is for the Kodiak chassis. Like I said before, on the 2500-3500 pin 11 and 12 are both ignition voltage.
Click to expand...


Rockabillyrat said:
I have 12 Volts when ignition is in crank mode
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This is the ignition switch I put in
 

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dbrannon79 said:
I must have gotten my wires crossed, i thought we were talking about the shift selector switch down on the trans.
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Yea we are talking about the NSBU switch

I just included the pictures of the ignition switch as rocky said it gets power from the yellow wire on the ignition

I have 12 volts cranking on line 12 at the NSBU plug.
I have constant 12volts when ignition is turned on in pin 11.


I also checks transmission range switch A,b,c,p. With 12 volt light

Wires are able to hold 12 volts from end to end



Transmission goes into drive. Won’t go into reverse. Indicator line flashes under R
 
so I currently. Plugged everything all back in


And what do you know.
No idea what I did but have the hole harness opened up and moved everything around the last few days



It goes into reverse nice and gentle. Goes into drive gentle nice and gentle


If I tourque up a little bit in drive it throws p0872. Solenoid E stuck closed

Then it shifts ruff into reverse and drive

I can clear the codes

I can do the same and code comes back.


Currently 3 degrees Celsius out





If I command the solenoid E on with scanner it says No short to ground and No short to voltage
 
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Here are the test procedures for p0872

1. Check the Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) switch inputs in Transmission Control Module (TCM) data.

2. Key OFF for 30 seconds or more.

3. Key ON, watch TFP switch inputs in scan data.

4. C, D, E should all read OFF.

5. Start engine, switches C, D and E should all quickly change to ON.

6. Engine running, place transmission in D.

7. With transmission in a steady state 1st gear, should now have: C OFF, D ON, E OFF.

8. If the switch E does not change to OFF, the E shift valve may be sticking or the C shift valve may be loose, allowing fluid bypass causing a bleed action to the E valve.

9. Remove the E and C shift valves from valve body and inspect condition.

10. If the valves appear OK, try a new TFP switch assembly.
Tech Tips:The TFP switch assembly is bolted to the valve body. NOTE: the valve body bolts, including the bolts that retain the TFP switch assembly, must have 100 inch pound torque at final torque.
 
Rockabillyrat said:
Here are the test procedures for p0872

1. Check the Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) switch inputs in Transmission Control Module (TCM) data.

2. Key OFF for 30 seconds or more.

3. Key ON, watch TFP switch inputs in scan data.

4. C, D, E should all read OFF.

5. Start engine, switches C, D and E should all quickly change to ON.

6. Engine running, place transmission in D.

7. With transmission in a steady state 1st gear, should now have: C OFF, D ON, E OFF.

8. If the switch E does not change to OFF, the E shift valve may be sticking or the C shift valve may be loose, allowing fluid bypass causing a bleed action to the E valve.

9. Remove the E and C shift valves from valve body and inspect condition.

10. If the valves appear OK, try a new TFP switch assembly.
Tech Tips:The TFP switch assembly is bolted to the valve body. NOTE: the valve body bolts, including the bolts that retain the TFP switch assembly, must have 100 inch pound torque at final torque.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that

Upon following the procedure


When in Drive. I have C-On d-On. E-On
 
Did you clear the code before the test. It might lock out if there is a code set.

If they are still staying on in drive, then I would also test the pressure switch wiring for a short to ground. When they have pressure applied to them they close to ground. So if the wire is shorted to ground the TCM will think the pressure switch is being applied. PS E is the red wire pin E at the trans.
 
Rockabillyrat said:
Did you clear the code before the test. It might lock out if there is a code set.

If they are still staying on in drive, then I would also test the pressure switch wiring for a short to ground. When they have pressure applied to them they close to ground. So if the wire is shorted to ground the TCM will think the pressure switch is being applied. PS E is the red wire pin E at the trans.
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Codes were cleared before test was done

Could you explain the best way to test for short to ground.

Sorry for the the explaining I’m having you do
 
CBR consulting said:
Codes were cleared before test was done

Could you explain the best way to test for short to ground.

Sorry for the the explaining I’m having you do
Click to expand...
Unplugged the engine side trans plugged

Turned the multi meter to ohms


Used one prob on E. and other on ground

No resistance nothing out of the meter
Also checked the hole circuit from TCM red connector pin 3
So I’m thinking that means it’s not shorted to ground ?


Should I order new solenoid for E aswell
 
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Since you don't have a break out box, I would remove the red wire for PS E from the transmission connector then plug it back in. Then watch the scanner, its should be off because the wire isn't connected. Then ground it and see if it goes closed. That will test all the wring from the transmission to the TCM. If that's good then your going to have to pull the pan and do the same test at the internal PS E connector. If that passes then remove the valve body and test for a stuck valve. If that moves freely, then replace the solenoid.
 
Rockabillyrat said:
Since you don't have a break out box, I would remove the red wire for PS E from the transmission connector then plug it back in. Then watch the scanner, its should be off because the wire isn't connected. Then ground it and see if it goes closed. That will test all the wring from the transmission to the TCM. If that's good then your going to have to pull the pan and do the same test at the internal PS E connector. If that passes then remove the valve body and test for a stuck valve. If that moves freely, then replace the solenoid.
Click to expand...
So I did this test. Watched the scanner and when grounded out it turn on which is closed
.


I will pull the pan tomorrow and do the Same test.

Am I only looking a E valve then


I ordered two new solenoid just in case to have for tomorrow



Definitely feel I’m on the home stretch with this to getting it on the road and making me some money finally
 
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Rockabillyrat said:
Since you don't have a break out box, I would remove the red wire for PS E from the transmission connector then plug it back in. Then watch the scanner, its should be off because the wire isn't connected. Then ground it and see if it goes closed. That will test all the wring from the transmission to the TCM. If that's good then your going to have to pull the pan and do the same test at the internal PS E connector. If that passes then remove the valve body and test for a stuck valve. If that moves freely, then replace the solenoid.
Click to expand...
How do I remove the e valve does the valve body have to be dropped out of place again
 
Sounds like what @Rockabillyrat said about the valve being stuck in the valve body. I have never tried pulling one from a trans before, but I do know everything MUST be clean including the area your working in. from what I'm told the tiniest speck of dirt can reek havoc in there.

I would wait for him to instruct you on what to do and what your up against doing it. I'm sure he will have some detailed instructions and what to do and not to do here.
 
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