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Code 35 what are the usual suspects?

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fonecop1

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My truck set a code 35 today. I read and commented in another thread about running some oil additive to my fuel and I plaqn to do that. I thought I would start this thread to see what else I should be checking.
Thanks in advance,
Bob
 
my buddy with the scanner is a bit inebriated tonight so I dont have the patience to go over there and use his scanner to clear the code. Can't you clear it by so many key on key off cycles?
 
Hi Bob - you are right on with the additive idea - running some seafoam through your filter manager also helps to clear things.

To clear your codes, put the jumper into A/B, turn on the key, push brake and APP to the floor and hold for 1 minute or so. Turn off key, release pedals, then turn on key again. Should have cleared code, you should get a flashing 12.

Jim
 
Thanks Jim, I'm gonna run out there right now and clear it to see what it does going to work today.
 
fonecop, does your engine light stay on steady, or does it flash? Mine has been flashing the 35 code for a few weeks now but it still runs fine. I was under the assumtion that a 35 code can sometimes mean air in the fuel. My fuel lines a rotted bad and i just kinda figured that was the issue.

Jifaire, is seafoam a brand of additive or something completely different? And when clearing codes you push the brake and accelerator pedal correct?
 
DTC35 can be caused by bubbles in the fuel, as from a leak, also from aerated fuel, which is why your oem factory Diesel fuel cap is vented at ~2"HG vacuum - maintaining a slight vacuum in the fuel tank allows those teeny aeration bubbles in the fuel to break thru Barometric surface tension, thus joining their compatriates above the surface and reducing potential for fueling problems - also caused by leaky fuel lines between tank sock and lift pump - leaky fuel lines between lp and fuel manager and IP will be wet, due to lift pump pressure

Can also be caused by insufficient fuel supply due to failing lp or plugged filter

Can also be caused by failing ESO, plugged regulator screen, failing regulator

Can also be caused by excess clearance in the rotor\distributor, indicating impending IP replacement

Some failure can be temporarily eased by thickening up the fuel, as with motor oil
- 2-stroke oil is formulated for combustion chamber service in spark-infested engines (patooie!) and so is more expensive than
- standard non-detergent motor oils will burn quiet nicely in our heat-of compression-ignition engines, plus will increase fuel economy: there's a lot more BTU in a quart of motor oil than in a gallon of Diesel fuel

Too much thickener will net you a lovely DTC36, so, once again, kiddies: all things in
Moderation (pun intended).....................
 
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On the way home tonight I noticed my cruise isn't working either. I cleared the code this morning and as soon as I started it up the SES came back on steady. Also I did have to pusk the brake and accelerator to clear the code.

We are going on a camping trip friday just about 100 miles from home so I'm trying to figure out if this thing is gonna break down on me.
 
Cruise won't work with most DTC's - I notice new injectors ~21kmi ago - what about the IP???
 
The IP was done in Feb 2005, best I can guess since I can't find the mileage written down is that it was about 85,000 miles ago. Does a FSD ever cause code 35? I ask because I have a spare on my heat sync sitting there.
 
FSD can cause DTC35, but is more apt to cause DTC36, as is poor connection and low battery voltage

Try increasing fuel viscosity with some good ole dino 30, a quart per full tank - 'course, if it is an air leak between tank and lift pump, denser fuel will result in even greater air intake: Diesel fuel is already much denser than air
 
well I filled up on the way home tonight and dumped a quart of 30 wt in it. The SES stayed on all of the way home but about 2 hours later when I drove it over to the barn to change the oil I noticed the SES was off. I sure hope it stays that way. Thanks Guys!
 
well the SES being off was short lived, it came back on and stayed on the last 5 days. I have noticed that I can smell a little diesel fuel on the drivers side when I have exited the truck at times. I haven't crawled under it yet to see if I can spot anything leaking but from what I understand it's probably on the suction side and probebly won't show a lot of leakage anyway. I have also noticed that the truck seems to crank a little longer before firing than it usually does. I think I need to inspect and replace the rubber lines at the tank. Is it easier to drop the tank or just lift the bed out of the way? I just filled up on the way home so it's probably still got 16 gals in it.
 
Update

Well I was able to inspect the rubber lines from under the truck without dropping the tank or removing the bed and they looked fine. A couple of days ago we were on our way camping and made a stop along the way and it wouldn't start, the easiest thing I could do was switch to my spare FSD that was sitting on my heatsink. Low and behold after I switched to my backup driver it started right up and the SES light went off. I went ahead and cleared the code and it has been gone ever since.
 
There ya go, Bob... start with the cheap stuff, work your way up. If your fuel viscosity is OK, your LP is fine, you have no air leaks (suction side) to cause bubbles, and your grounds/connections are OK, then it's on to the PMD, then the IP.

Most of the time, starting with the cheap stuff solves your problem, or at least gets some stuff done that needs it anyway.

Glad you got it solved, pal!

Jim
 
when i had a code 35 it was my fsd going i didn't suppect till my truck started stalling i tried everything before that to get the code to go away but that was just my experance
 
Just went through the same issues with my 95. It used to stall only once right after the initial start-up. Then that went away, followed by the code 35. Drove it with the light for about 2 weeks, then one morning it started stalling untill it reached a no-start condition. Replaced FSD. Light and stalling gone, and now I have a nice remote mount FSD!!
 
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