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Code 13 Engine shutoff Sol Ughhh...

A

Acesneights1

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Truck died on the side of the road. Just so happended I had my laptop with GMTDScan so quick scan revealed the above code 13 ESO. I checked the fuel sol fuse(20 amp) under hood . Blown. Put new(30) fuse in . Truck starts right up goes about 1/4 mile. Dead again blown fuse. Now I'm blocking traffic. Only spare fuse I have is a 10 amp. I throw it in hoping to atleast get into a parking lot. After about 10 mins in the parking lot truck still running. So I attempt my 30 mile journey home. Truck makes it fine. Now when it blew the fuse , I had GMTDScan hooked up to it while I was driving. What would cause what happended ? Should I be looking for a chaffed wire somewhere or could an ESO cause this ? BTW Stealer wants 267$ for new ESO. I would replace the IP before I would pay that. Any ideas ? I really don't want to pull the intake off but I need to find a problem before I feel comfortable driving it. Also any thoughts on reusing the intake gaskets ? I'm not cheap it's just that they are about 6 months old and were the last set of Victor gaskets on the east coast so I can only get Felpro now. I have an F intake on an S engine.
BTW it was because of GMCTD that I had the laptp with me. I was going to cut the TDCO back as soon as I got home with truck good and hot so I had it ready to go when I left work. What a coincidence that I sould end up needing it to get home. Anybody here who owns a 94-95 should buy the program it's really a nessicity.
 
You can't just replace the ESO, either. I believe it has to be shimmed in order to work properly and no one other than a pump shop is likely to have the tools or know-how to do it.

I'm not sure about what would be blowing the fuse, though. Possible it's a frayed wire but it could also be that the solenoid is actually shot.
 
It could be a wire or in the ESO itself. Check with a Stanadyne pump shop, they quoted me $125 cnd here in Alberta. Make sure the fuse is making a good connection, an arc may also cause it to blow. Good luck Ace. Leo Edit: You can also cut the plunger off disabling the ESO,
 
I read something on the old site that just distressed me. ON the way home after I got it running I thought when I got on it I felt it sort of keep going after I let off the throttle but thought maybe I imagined it. Am I looking at a new IP ?
 
ON the old site read something about fuel sol was under the pump and ESO was on top. Was thinking about running separate fused power to ESO and then drive until fuse blows. If it blows ESO not problem if it doesn't ESO is ?
 
Yeah it just screws off. I've got the one from my 98 in my 95. The 98 is turning into a parts truck, I better smarten up and get going on it. Leo
 
I was probably a part of the confusion.

I called the ESO the FSOL numerous times.

You problem is with the tall cylinder (ESO)....open your Service Manual and start tracing wires....
 
GMTDScantech calls it an ESO (engine shut off). Your fuse box calls it a fuse sol. They are both the stack of coins thing at the top front of the IP. If your truck is running away on you then it may be the fuel armature ie: new IP. Leo
 
OK I can get a used one that is good for 25$ Should I order it ? In other words is it something I can change myself or does it need to be shimmed ? The only way for me to thouroughly check the wires would be to remove the intake so I was thinking I'll swap the ESO 1st and see if that cures it. The parts of the harness that I could see looked ok. It "should" be in wireloom from what I could see under intake but it's dark.
 
It just unscrews, a 5 min. change. Don't know about good used, your call. The fuel armature is what is shimmed, to .005", that is why only a pump shop can do it. It's located at the back of th IP between the inj. lines. I don't think that is your problem. Leo
 
I thought DieselPro mentioned something about the actual ESO being shimmed. I never got fuel through the pump again after I took one out of a running pump.

Just be sure to double check before you tear that one out. I'd hate to see you have to take the thing apart to get it reshimmed :(
 
This was what Tim from Accurate wrote to me:

Kenny,

The fuel solenoid is an integral, non-user replaceable part of the injection pump. The shutoff solenoid is the round part about an inch in diameter and several inches high at the front of the pump. It just unscrews and screws back in - anybody can replace it!

If the fuel solenoid fuse is blowing, it could be a PMD issue. However, there is enough going on on that circuit, that is is tough to identify. I would not worry about the internal fuel solenoid. If it does it more consistently, you can try physically isolating the PMD from ground - if the fuse stops blowing - it is the PMD.



I wrote back and told him the PMD is a DTech(which I bought from him) and is only 6 mos old so most likley not the cause. Its on a sink under the truck.
 
Unplug the ESO and then turn on the key - did the fuse blow?

Gut the ESO, plug it in and turn on the key - did the fuse blow?

Gut the ESO, plug it in, turn on the engine - did the fuse blow?
 
That's the problem if it was doing it consistently it would be easy to diagnose but it blew the second one within 2 mins but the third made it all the way home(30 miles-p40 mins) and is still good so my problem appears to be intermittent(the worst kind). It ran all the way home on a 10 amp. I think I'm going to pull the intake tonight and get a good look at the harness. I wiggled it around and pulled it like an inch before putting in fuse # 3. Praying for chaffed wire. Ordered the ESO anyway cause shipping takes time and for 25$ I'd rather get it and not need it than find out I need it and have to wait a week. I'll check PMD wiring to. The existing PMD on the pump is still good. Didn't have issues when I abandoned it.
 
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